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09-10-2016, 07:03 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 28
Redwood Valley
, California
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 6
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1975 Argosy - gutted but not sure how to proceed
Hey y'all I've gone through and gutted this thing. I want to clean the walls and put in new flooring but there's nasty grey water in the grey tank and nasty stuff in the black water tank. I don't need them anymore because we have an outhouse and outdoor shower on the property and I want to remove them. Started taking the plywood floor out, but it's getting messy and I'm not any closer to removing the holding tanks! Please help!
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09-10-2016, 07:22 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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The sinks including kitchen go to the gray water tank. Do you plan on using kitchen sink.
I'd leave the tanks. They would normally be accessed from below. You can plug/cap them up if you really want to.
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09-11-2016, 09:02 AM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 28
Redwood Valley
, California
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 6
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I thought about plugging them but there's a reason for the vents. It needs to breathe. Are you 100% sure capping them is ok? I just feel weird doing a whole remodel in there and knowing there's nasty grey/black water underneath me
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09-12-2016, 06:25 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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You do want to drain them as much as possible. Flush with a good amount of fresh water some bleach before sealing them up. In this case scented bleach is acceptable since you won't be drinking out of there.
Yep, the vents have two primary functions, I know two primary functions how can that be. Anyway first is to prevent the tank from becoming air bound as it fills and drains. If air can't escape as it fils, or enter as it drains you get either a pressure buildup or vacuum preventing the water from being able to flow freely in and out. Second, as sewer gasses are created by decomposition and bacteria the vent gives those gasses a place to go freely, otherwise they would force themselves up through p traps and filling the trailer with smelly and potentially deadly gasses.
Cleaning them out and sealing them up, the pressure changes the tanks will feel will be from atmospheric pressure changes due to weather or altitude and temperature changes. Tanks should be able to handle those changes. If you remove the drainage pipes and cap the drains, you can put a small 1/8" hole in there to allow pressure equalization.
Plans for sink water?
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09-14-2016, 08:50 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1964 26' Overlander
1974 31' Sovereign
Milton
, ON
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,223
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By sealing the tanks up you'll also be able to remove and patch over the point where they vent through the roof, which eliminates a possible leak point. That is if you're sure you won't have any use for them.
If you search the forums for floor replacement you'll find plenty of threads on how to do that. It's important to understand the frame-floor-shell connection going into the process. Even though it sounds like you're not going to be travelling with this trailer, if it were me I would also address any repairs needed to the frame due to rust. The reason for doing this now is that it's a lot easier to weld the frame with the floor removed. If at some point you decide to convert this trailer back to be travelled in, or to sell it to someone else who plans to travel with it it would be nice to have a solid frame and floor going into that process.
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09-14-2016, 11:06 PM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 28
Redwood Valley
, California
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 6
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Thank you
Thanks HiJoeSilver and Davidson ...
I'm thinking to plug up both the grey water tank and the black water tank... If we do end up putting a sink in there, it will just drain out the trailer and go to a grey water collection area. This thing is hopefully permanent and will have an outdoor shower nearby so I think just plugging them up should be ok and maybe I'll still a small hole in the top of each to allow gasses and moisture to escape and eventually it will dry up in there. We are in an area of California where it's super hot and dry in the summer
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09-14-2016, 11:08 PM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 28
Redwood Valley
, California
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 6
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The frame looks good except for the back where water lines were leaking a bunch with the previous owner. I think some dry weather should keep it from getting worse... Do you think I should weld it ?
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09-14-2016, 11:21 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moongazer
The frame looks good except for the back where water lines were leaking a bunch with the previous owner. I think some dry weather should keep it from getting worse... Do you think I should weld it ?
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Hard to say without seeing it, but if it's still structurally solid and primarily surface corrosion then some cleaning and paint may suffice.
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09-14-2016, 11:24 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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From the sounds of things you're turning this into a fairly permanent bunk house? How often will you use it?
An outhouse in California!? How'd you get that by the man?! Or do I not want to know?!
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09-16-2016, 11:04 AM
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#10
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1 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 28
Redwood Valley
, California
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 6
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It will be a permanent guest room / office ... would you paint the rusty chassis with Rustoleum or something else?
And by outhouse I meant permitted composting toilet in a permitted structure elsewhere on the property 😉
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09-29-2016, 02:07 PM
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#11
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1 Rivet Member
1975 Argosy 28
Redwood Valley
, California
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 6
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There are 3 vents on the roof that look exactly like this. We have rain on the way and i need to know how to patch these. I'm thinking to glue some old plastic Tupperware on each one. Is that crazy? Any advice?
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