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Old 09-13-2014, 11:19 PM   #1
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Conroe , Texas
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1973 Argosy 20' newby owner's questions.

We just bought an argosy , and after a heavy rain few days ago discovered a leak from the panel above the kitchen cabinet.

20140913_155323.jpg Photo by Atti_Mac | Photobucket

I climbed up outside and find few crack around a small vent on the top, so I was wondering if the leak comes from there.

20140913_155356.jpg Photo by Atti_Mac | Photobucket

I guess it wasn't a first time , because the countertop behind the oven basically is falling to part , also the back side and all of the "L" shape little brackets were not hold it tight to the wall they were broke off rotten wood pieces as well...

Moved the fridge , and the oven.. and the sink..

And finally I removed the countertop , and moved to the side the cabinet:

20140913_155306.jpg Photo by Atti_Mac | Photobucket

So far so good

During a floor cleaning and removing the linoleum , discovered a rotten small section by the oven, and the right side from the door.
I don't want to replace the whole floor, so I was wondering can I just replace that section? Marked with red dots where I saw the line where the 2 panels were sitting next to each other

20140913_155228.jpg Photo by Atti_Mac | Photobucket

Hole 2:
20140913_155249.jpg Photo by Atti_Mac | Photobucket

The rest of the floor under the cabinet looks solid.
20140913_155301.jpg Photo by Atti_Mac | Photobucket

I guess the counter top soaked every drop of water like a sponge

So I have a few questions if you guys don't mind.

1, What can I use to seal the top by the vent?
2, What should I buy to make a countertop?
3, Is it practical just keep that old wobbling cabinet and screw it back to the wall and put a new countertop on it? It doesn't seems to me very solid ...
4, the floor .. What plywood , or other wood material I should use ( thickness , brand? ) , and If I just want to replace 1 section , is it screwed to the aluminum bars underneath? I never seen one opened.

I hear about a "magic" Flex Seal on TV shop, and is it a laughable stuff, or anyone actually tried before?
I read somewhere in this forum the most common is the TremPro 635 Polyurethane.
So I guess I should start from the top to fix the leak, and after the floor, and the cabinet.
I am not too fan of the fridge, it is 40 years old, and I don't trust in that gas operation, It is any suggestion to replace to a cheap fridge w/ electric what would fit?
Thank you so much for the help if you guys have any suggestions, I would appreciated, I don't know too much about campers, and would help any recommendation.
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Old 09-14-2014, 02:15 PM   #2
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The 'small vent' on the top is the vent for the plumbing in the kitchen area. It is probably a major source for your leaks. Visit Inland RV or Out of Doors Mart for the gasket that seals the vent cover. You undo a few screws, take the cover off, clean the old gasket off the roof, put the new gasket on (with sealant - not silicone), and screw the cover back down.

As for the floor, go to the part of the Forums dealing with floor replacement. You can replace part of the floor, but you need to read up on what you are getting into. 3/4" or 5/8" plywood is the usual material for the floor, exterior or marine grade. The floor is bolted to the cross members of the frame. Vintage Trailer Supply sells bolts that you can use to bolt the floor down without removing the belly pan.

The kitchen countertop is probably 3/4" plywood with laminate glued on.

Once the cabinets are screwed in place and the top is on, the structure is pretty sturdy. If the cabinet wood is in pretty good shape, you can probably reuse it. If the wood is very water damaged, use it as a template for a rebuild. Often the cabinet face wood is pretty good but the plywood is damaged and needs to be replaced.

Fridges are expensive and many of the old refrigerators work well after a little cleaning. Operation with propane is quiet and safe as long as the cabinet the fridge is in is sealed well enough to keep the air flow up the chimney. A CO detector is still a good idea. A lot of the camper crowd have gone to 12V compressor refrigerators. The refrigerator you have likely works with propane or 110V electric. When you are in the campground with hook ups, you use electric. Propane is for non-hook up camping.

Tempro 635 is the stuff to use.
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Old 09-14-2014, 03:55 PM   #3
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Great!
I followed your advice removed that crazily glued covers and I found a hole just next to that black rubber thing is sticking out. So seal that one around with tempro ? http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSC_0157.jpg

and after put a cleaned cap on it with the new gasket? Also that fan it shows the photo has some silver powdered glue or sticky staff around it, I guess I have to re-do on the top part right? Photo shows :
http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/a...c/DSC_0158.jpg
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Old 09-14-2014, 04:10 PM   #4
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I tried to show some photos, and the cause , but I have to wait till the moderator approve it . Why we have to wait for that? If the moderator is busy I can't get a smooth reply in time?
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Old 09-14-2014, 04:59 PM   #5
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I tried to show some photos, and the cause , but I have to wait till the moderator approve it . Why we have to wait for that? If the moderator is busy I can't get a smooth reply in time?
Due to excessive spamming by "new" members, there is a 10 post minimum prior to being able to post links or photos. Moderators will approve them when they see them.

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Old 09-14-2014, 05:16 PM   #6
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Ok, understand. Make sense
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Old 09-14-2014, 07:00 PM   #7
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Also what do you think about this?

Roof Vent Caps Sewer Holding Tank for RV motorhome or Trailer Brand New | eBay

Mine is a fiberglass , and it is broken every side, and I can't find a replacement just made in aluminum for $43...
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Old 09-15-2014, 08:01 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by atti_mac View Post
Also what do you think about this?

Roof Vent Caps Sewer Holding Tank for RV motorhome or Trailer Brand New | eBay

Mine is a fiberglass , and it is broken every side, and I can't find a replacement just made in aluminum for $43...
That cap looks like it would fix the issue of the hole. It never occurred to me to find something like that. I went with the aluminium one from InlandRV. I would probably rivet the vent in place though and ensure you use caulking in and around the holes, rivets and gasket.
As for the silver residue, who knows, but my best guess is degraded filler of some kind.
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Old 09-15-2014, 12:25 PM   #9
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I was planning to use Tampro 635 around it, and cut some rubber out as gasket. My Argosy is painted white so the aluminum from that website you mentioned will not match with the camper. At least this is white and like the idea of the cover as well.
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Old 09-15-2014, 12:43 PM   #10
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I used the white plastic caps on mine and they worked OK. FYI I had to glue a short extension onto the black tube so that it would stick up into the cap part of the device. The tube stubs were quite short on mine and being below the vent hole they would still get wet in windy or driving conditions.
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Old 09-15-2014, 04:51 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by atti_mac View Post
I was planning to use Tampro 635 around it, and cut some rubber out as gasket. My Argosy is painted white so the aluminum from that website you mentioned will not match with the camper. At least this is white and like the idea of the cover as well.
I guess you could also us butyl tape as a gasket, but I guess if you have rubber lying around that works too.
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Old 09-15-2014, 09:43 PM   #12
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I got the order today for that plastic cover and they will send a butyl tape with it. How to use that tape? I never used one.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:29 PM   #13
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Butyl tape is just a putty-like tape that is used to seal holes and cracks. If you use Tempro and wipe off the excess, no one will know it is a gray sealant that you used. Butyl tape will seal but it isn't as long lasting as the polyurethanes like Tempro.
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Old 09-21-2014, 01:51 PM   #14
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Ok, I made some progress this weekend, I cleaned the top , sanded down with 80 paper, and used a Tampro 635 around it. I have a question . The original vent was screwed down, but the plastic vent cover I bought has different layout with holes. Should I just cover the old screw holes with Tempro, and just drill a small holes and run with new screws? I read somewhere somebody used a rivets ? My only doubts with that if in the future someone want a new style of vent cap they have to drill it out...

We decided to paint it over because someone already painted a bit , and they didn't do it right so it is pilling off . I never painted anything like a car or camper, so should I sanded down till the metal? And use some primer? What brand paint on the top ?
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