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Old 03-04-2008, 08:21 PM   #491
Jim & Susan
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Profile:  1973 27' Overlander
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Thanks guys. That's kinda the confirmation I was looking for. This thing had a pretty weird smell in the beginning, now it's all gone. Just can't get over not being able to get all the "yellow" out. I'll keep ya posted.

Malcolm, thanks for the pm!

Jim
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:49 PM   #492
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Well, finally finished up all the “little” projects and have moved on to the insulation. Walls going back in soon!

Here’s what we decided for the insulation. We are using the Reflectix brand of foil insulation for the majority of the wall areas. It seemed the best idea for the narrow distance between the inner and outer walls. We thought about the pink stuff—the same as OEM, nah, not enough horsepower. We thought about a foil type that was filled with Styrofoam (sorry, can’t remember the name). But there was only one distributor that I could find using an internet search. I’m not comfortable going with a product that only has one storefront for several reasons. No competition means higher prices. A couple of folks here have mentioned that they might use it, but I have yet to see any comments from anybody that actually did (good or bad). Is it safe?

I got most of these ideas from a thread that Malconium posted to about a year ago. Here it is: Foil Bubble Insulation Methods - Airstream Trailer & Motorhome Community Thanks Malcolm!
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:53 PM   #493
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So, on to the installation

Products used:

Reflectix brand foil insulation.
Plain old Liquid Nails
Aluminum “duct” tape
Closed cell foam 4 x 8 sheets (the stuff you put on the outside walls of your new house)

The instructions that came with the Refectix said that the product works best when there is a ½ to ¾ inch dead air space between the foil and the walls on both sides. We took the closed cell foam boards over my buddy Eric’s woodshop and cut them into 3/4” strips. These were glued to the outside walls using the Liquid Nails. These are only used as a spacer to keep the foil off the outer and inner walls, creating the open (dead) air space. The walls are roughly 1 ¾ inches thick. The Reflectix is about ¼ inch thick. So, when you do the math, ¾”air space created by the foam glued to the outer skin, plus ¼ inch Reflectix, plus ¾ inch dead air space between the Reflectix and the inner skin should produce the desired “sandwitch” of materials to do the trick.
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:55 PM   #494
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Once all of that was glued into place, we are using the aluminum foil tape to close up any air gaps between the inner and outer airspace. Basically, trying to seal things up.
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:57 PM   #495
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A couple of observations based on a few days of playing around with all of this. The Liquid Nails seems to need about 24 hours to set up. I’m trying to glue the foam strips up in a section at a time, let them sit until the next day, then come behind with the foil. It’s kinda slow going, but getting finished.
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:01 PM   #496
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Looks good Jim...keep up the great work.

Steve
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:09 PM   #497
jayray5
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Profile:  1973 25' Tradewind
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What do the walls sound like if you tap on them. Is it a thud? or a resonation. I am replacing the pink and I want noise deadening characteristics as well as condensation control. Let us know how well you like the finished product.
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:33 PM   #498
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I haven't finished yet, so right now it sounds kinda like a drum beat. I would think that you would need a few inches of something like the closed cell (dense) foam to deaden the sound. Like in a recording studio? Is that what your after?
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:44 PM   #499
grakkin
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Profile:  1976 31' Sovereign
Cicero , Indiana
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Your whole project has kept my interest for the last year. I just recently started my own restoration (and started actually posting to the forums). Ive read over this thread about 20 times now trying to soak up as much information as I could before we started our AS. I can't wait to get to the point where I have the floor in so I can start on the fun stuff. Keep up the good work so I can stay inspired!
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:56 PM   #500
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Hey now, just remember I'm kinda fumbling thru this. Never taken on any kind of project like this. And that was kinda the point when I started this thread, if a knucklehead like me can do it, just about anybody can, too!

So, where's YOUR "Full Monte" thread?
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:03 PM   #501
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1977 23' Safari
1975 31' Sovereign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
I had read in another thread someplace that the fresh water inlets were prone to breaking up and falling apart. They're plastic and I suppose dry out, crack and break. PizzaChop had mentioned that he repaired his with fiberglass and resin, so off we go.

I think I kinda got carried away, but it should last awhile now. Still needs some cleaning up, but you get the idea.

Jim
http://www.airforums.com/forums/527992-post486.html post #486

Jim,

I've got two of these that need repair. I noticed you fiberglassed over the tube--the 1-1/2" ID hose is supposed to go over that, how'd you connect once you made the diameter bigger?

Zep
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Old 03-13-2008, 05:22 AM   #502
grakkin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
So, where's YOUR "Full Monte" thread?
Here is my restoration thread, It has begun...
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:32 AM   #503
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Zep, short answer is that I haven't tried to put the pipe back on there yet. I tried to add a minimum amout of new stuff on the pipe neck itself. If it turns out to be much too large, then I'm hoping to sand it down or go with different sized pipe or fittings. Hopefully.....

Jim
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Old 03-13-2008, 10:29 AM   #504
Chuck
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a very small amount of fiberglass makes a big difference in sound deadening. I'd be wary of going with "only" reflectix for that reason alone.
IIRC, the folks at GSM use both, and just lose the airspace on the reflectix. (doesn't make that much difference). I'd imagine there'd be less condensation to worry about that way, too.

I know a guy that used the rigid foam/foil stuff. "polyisocyanurate", I think its called. HD carries it. I think they had to score the back side of it to get it to conform to the curves, where necessary.
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