just bought a 22 ccd and this is what i woud like to change, but being a novice i would ask the advice of the forum
1- heater fan to noisy can this be changed?
2-we like the wet bath but the shower holder is in the wrong place, i hit my head, so is the toilet roll holder, but that could be difficult
3-would like to protect the frame from rust here in Canada we have a product called Krown, which is a upgrade from rust check, my cars are done with this no rust, so is it possible to reach the frame, like remove the underbelly
4- put gfi plugs in the kitchen- they should be anyway if near water.
ill think of some more as time goes on, many thanks for reading
I have a 19CCD. l can't answer on the wet bath as I have a full shower. Kitchen outlets are probably (and should be) on the same circuit as a GFCI and are probably downstream of one. Get a 3 prong circuit condition tester with GFCI test button, plug in to one of the outlets and hit the button. The GFCI that controls them should pop. A GFCI can control 3 other outlets if properly wired.
The heater is noisy.....most are! I use an oil-filled radiator for most heating when I'm plugged in and I installed a heat strip in the air conditioner for a little heat on cool mornings. If you're boondocking, you just have to listen to the fan .
I'm not familiar with your rust control product, but if you can access the frame, then why not (others who have done restorations may have more significant input on this topic) .
thanks for the qiick reply, as regards 1 can one change the heater fan for a quieter fan or does one have to change the whole heater, the heater strip is not very warm and still noisy,plus when boondocking no power, as you can guess i am noise sensitive, but i know there must be a quiete heater out there, i did see a mr heater when i was in camperworld so perhaps i can add some form of propane connection and use that.
David,
Are you sure it's the heater fan making the noise? I owned an 04' 22'ccd and the fridge fan was extremely noisy and has been discussed numerous times on the forums. There are some good threads discussing this fix....... just type in silenex in the search feature......one is here http://www.airforums.com/forum...hlight=silenex
I never did resolve the issue because we upgraded to a 28'er, but I know a lot of folks did fix their's.
Good luck!
no it was definatly the heater fan, the fridge wasn't on, mybe a faulty fan
another question if i install optima batteries do i have to change anything like charging units?
Airstream should be more concerned about protecting the frame. The frame should at least be powder coated. Did you know that all Coleman popup trailers have a powder coated frame? We should not have to apply rust proofing to these trailers, it should be a process applyed at the factory and it would make an excellent selling feature.
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Hensley Hitch, Jordan controller
Airstream should be more concerned about protecting the frame. The frame should at least be powder coated. Did you know that all Coleman popup trailers have a powder coated frame? We should not have to apply rust proofing to these trailers, it should be a process applyed at the factory and it would make an excellent selling feature.
Since when did Coleman start powdercoating? I have a 2000 and if it was powdercoated it was only because it was in the same room, it has pretty substantial surface rust on it. Personally I think a highgrade epoxy paint would be a better choice and better yet POR 15 Of course that would cut into the profit margins and they would have to raise the price at least $2000 to cover the cost. I would also like to see more use of stainless steel fasteners but they aren't going to do that either, it would add at least $100 to the bottom line cost of every trailer. (rant off )
Aaron
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....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #2449 AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
i agree with the powder coating, but here in canada i use krown an excellent product if only i can get to the frame with all the metal sheeting on, being new to all this i find it terrible that one has to be careful of bending the frame, this should never be with present day technology, it would in my opinion, and i know nothing, to leave the under belly exposed and protect the tanks, then one can see any problems developing, and someone told me you cannot walk on the roof, i have walked on a bigfoot roof, but what do i know
David -- Walking on the roof has been discussed multiple ways on the forums. Just never put any pressure on the end segments!
Powder coating isn't a magic bullet -- just a way to eliminate the serious toluene vehicle emissions from spray paints. POR-15 is amazing stuff!
I haven't dealt with the newer plastic banana wrap and edge panels down below. Removing belly wrap isn't difficult but you'll have problems with rivets here and there. The end result is that the materials will be aged significantly if you do this frequently. Fiberglass batt insulation and bare plywood floors will be exposed to the elements once the belly wrap is off. At most I could suggest cutting an inspection opening, then riveting a slightly larger aluminum panel over it.
Airstream bellies are intended to have ventilation -- so don't plan on sealing this space.
Since when did Coleman start powdercoating? I have a 2000 and if it was powdercoated it was only because it was in the same room, it has pretty substantial surface rust on it. Personally I think a highgrade epoxy paint would be a better choice and better yet POR 15 Of course that would cut into the profit margins and they would have to raise the price at least $2000 to cover the cost. I would also like to see more use of stainless steel fasteners but they aren't going to do that either, it would add at least $100 to the bottom line cost of every trailer. (rant off )
Aaron
I had a 2002 Santa Fe and I was disappointed because the next year Coleman(now Fleetwood) powdercoated the frame and the tent material was attached to the bed slides which I thought was a great improvement. It now looks like Fleetwood only powder coats the tongue and bumper area on selected models.
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Hensley Hitch, Jordan controller
Bob thanks for the info, i am not running airstream down but first i would tell you my story. two years ago i got the car i wanted, so my wife wanted her choice in TT, we had been across canada to the east coast down, across new mexico and back up the west coast, we did this in a small travel van but we both really enjoyed our 3month trip. that was 5 years ago, time for a TT so my wife asked me to do research on TT which i did, my choice was bigfoot 2x 3500 axles for the same size, good solid frame 4 season , and so on but my wife saw an airstream from afar and asked me to check, no dealers on our island -vancouver island-but i knew a guy who used to own one for years and every june he would take it to the lake, so i talked to him and this is what he told me - old wally would shake in his grave if he saw what had become of airstream, the workmanship is atrocious, no detail, some food company used to own it, and now its Thor and all they do is play on the name and past reputation for a fat buck, cheap, cheap, cheap, there not made for traveling in, just for living in, soon as you move they leak, and that rots the floor, this is from memory, word for word, but my wife did not like the granny interior, with its floral coach and yellow type wood of the bigfoot , but fell in love with the 22ccd apart from the desk at the rear, i will not go on -this was just to give you some background
When it came time to replace my two batteries, I'd had experience with Optima from using them in my Corvettes. I found that the red and yellow topped batteries were for purely automotive use i.e. cranking power. I wasn't familiar with the blue tops until I asked my Airstream dealer if they would be appropriate for my trailer. My dealer and another Forum member instructed me to be certain to use the blue tops. The Blue tops are for marine, deep cycle use and hold a charge longer. Click on Marine once you go to the website. I think that once you've taken a look at the Optima site you too will agree you want the blue tops. Good luck with your decision.
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Of course that would cut into the profit margins and they would have to raise the price at least $2000 to cover the cost. I would also like to see more use of stainless steel fasteners but they aren't going to do that either, it would add at least $100 to the bottom line cost of every trailer. (rant off
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