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Old 01-27-2019, 06:12 AM   #57
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Shower

David - in another thread you posted a hand drawn diagram of a rear bath. Where you show the shower, will a residential stand up shower fit into that space? Will it fit through the door?
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Old 01-27-2019, 06:23 AM   #58
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Shower

David - in another thread you posted a hand drawn diagram of a rear bath. Where you show the shower, will a residential stand up shower fit into that space? Will it fit through the door?
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Old 01-27-2019, 06:52 AM   #59
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Bill, It was a company called RV Surplus, which closed and reopened under a new name, I think the link below is them. I live in Ohio, so I shopped a lot of parts from Surplus stores in Indiana and Michigan.


I attached an early Sunday morning back-of-the-napkin drawing of my tanks.
*Note, I sold my trailer last year, and am working from memory.


The Tee is on the street side, just forward of the hot water tank (rear bath). The valves are not shown.


By the way, I spent Jan of 2017 in New Smyrna, in my Airstream, at the Sugar Plantation...loved the area


Regards
Mike



https://www.rvandvansurplus.com/Holding-Tanks_c_16.html
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Old 01-27-2019, 08:07 AM   #60
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I studied this and you can find shower bases and enclosures separate. You will ave to trim the top of the enclosure to fit the curve of ceiling. Need to design first befor you cut any floor holes and have your tank made for the design . We were going this way but the boss decided she wanted the original. Have fun . And the pieces will fit through the door .
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Old 01-27-2019, 06:32 PM   #61
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Thanks Mike for the link and diagram. I am going to go with larger tanks, just haven’t figured the how yet,
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Old 01-27-2019, 06:35 PM   #62
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Thanks Joyflee. The original bath is okay but the tub/shower leaves a lot to be desired. Looking at any reasonable alternative which retains the current foot print
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Old 01-27-2019, 08:19 PM   #63
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Me again: One of the design challenges of a rear bath as the space is a half a "sphere". The head room back there isn't the greatest.

On my old 66 Trade Wind 24' I went shopping for a fiberglass shower pan. Then I built the shower walls around the pan. The pan was two feet square, very small. And I installed it next to the wall leaving little head room. It has a hand held shower wand so I guy can get wet, lather up, and then rinse. But nothing more. Small trailer, small shower. See two photos

I might mention Airstream had a better bath layout in the 67 models. The tub went east/west crossways allowing for a stand up shower at max headroom.

It would be difficult to buy a whole shower stall and expect to make it fit; seems to me. I used standard FRP material from the home improvement stores for the walls.

My Overlander solved this headroom problem by putting the tub sorta in the middle of the bathroom. This gives the necessary head room. The tub makes a good shower pan. The bath entry door has considerable offset due to the tub.

Shower pan or tub, the thing needs room for a P trap and drain pipe under it.
This requires a support "table" about 3" off the subfloor which subtracts from headroom. See photo

I have the Inca Plastics part numbers in my shop. I'll get them to you soon. But what I chose may not work in your Sovereign, or may not be what you want. So much of black tank specifications depend on where the toilet is located.

David
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Old 01-28-2019, 06:15 AM   #64
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Tank size

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Originally Posted by wcronin4 View Post
Thanks Mike for the link and diagram. I am going to go with larger tanks, just havenít figured the how yet,

Its tough to do without adding to the vertical dimension. I thought about adding spacers to my axles to allow for deeper tanks, but I never got it done
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Old 01-28-2019, 11:53 AM   #65
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Mike - that is one of the advantages of separating the shell from the frame - frame mods should be easier. Adding three to four inches of lift was already on my list.
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Old 01-28-2019, 12:10 PM   #66
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What is FRP?

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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
It would be difficult to buy a whole shower stall and expect to make it fit; seems to me. I used standard FRP material from the home improvement stores for the walls.


David
What is FRP, David?
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Old 01-28-2019, 06:46 PM   #67
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Acronyms. I'm worse than the government. FRP is fiberglass reinforced plastic. It is a thin sheet of plastic often used in shower stalls. It's relative cheap compared to tile and other bathroom building materials. It is quite flexible. It is installed with a special contact adhesive.

My Overlander had a painted melamine bulkhead wall at the end of the tub. I stuck a piece of FRP to a piece of 1/4" plywood in my Overlander, see photo. I think it will make a nice splash backstop using the shower.

Just a note: I personally think 3 to 4 inches of lift at the axles is too much. You may have a good reason to do this, such as boondocking in the Rocky Mountains. But I think it will make your trailer look like it's on stilts. You could go out and jack it up 3" between the wheels with a floor jack. Then step back and see what you see. If you like it, then do it.

David
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Old 01-30-2019, 02:41 PM   #68
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Outer Skin Finish

The following three pics illustrate the issue I have with the outer skin on Faith.

The first is on the passenger side rear and shows where a branch or a limb has been rubbing the exterior.
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The second shows the uneven finish on the driver side. Apparently, this side got the worst of the exposure to the sun.
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The third shows a closer pic of the another tree branch that got the driver side.
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I ask the question in another thread whether the finish could be sanded with 600 to 1000 grit wet sandpaper, steel wool or another method.

The response was immediate to not using steel wool. No one commented on the wet sand option, and there was some discussion on using a fine grade of Scotch Bright.

In addition to documenting the discussion is this thread for those who may have a similar issue, I was wanting to hear from someone who may have had some direct experience with trying to fix the finish issue displayed in the pics of Faith above. Yes, I will take an inconspicuous spot and experiment but it would be nice to do something that has been proven.

Bill
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Old 01-30-2019, 03:10 PM   #69
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Update

Just returned from a week away and ready to begin work anew on Faith.
The work immediately ahead is to continue to remove interior skins, and drop the two end caps. The end cap in front is in bad condition and I am not optimistic about getting it out without destroying it. The cap is literally crumbling. The giant hole you see in the pic below is from just lifting up the bottom to test its weight.
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The cap in the rear is good shape. Discolored, with small cracks at a couple of the pop-rivets but otherwise salvageable. Not quite sure how to get them down but Iím sure Iíll need help.
I have been getting some sidebar help from another forum member who has an AS the same size and model as mine. They have just within this week, used the gantry method to separate the 31 footer from the frame. So they are a couple of weeks ahead of me and they have taken the time to educate me on the process. Enormously helpful. I am hopeful that my pics and postings over the next month will be just as helpful to someone else.
I used the week while I was away to research my project and try to find solutions for problems I know I will encounter. For example, all the vista windows in Faith are damaged and leaking. The front wing windows have glass on the outside and Plexiglas on the inside. The Plexiglas is cracked in both windows but the outer glass is in good share. There is a lot of information in the window forums on how to repair, plus Robert at Vintage Trailer Gaskets has a wealth of knowledge on fixing these older windows.
Another issue that I have spent a lot of time on is researching replacement tanks for Faithís holding tanks which are woefully too small. A lot of time spent without finding the solution. But I know more now than I did a week ago, and I am armed with the knowledge of what I donít want.
More later.
Bill
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Old 01-30-2019, 07:37 PM   #70
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The swaying branch damage to Faith is likely repairable. Yes, wet sanding to remove the heavy oxidation is doable, however I've never done it. I would recommend using a heavy grade of Nuvite polish on a wool 8" compound pad and about 800 rpm on the polishing tool. And I would start working the area. You do have to ensure all the clear coat is removed first. Maybe stripping is in order. The Nuvite polishing method is typically very effective in restoring corroded aluminum. Read all about it at Perfect Polish if you like. Note: Polishing the trailer is one of the last jobs in the renovation.

Old plastics do get brittle. The battery box in my 75 Overlander also broke like a stale cookie. No strength left. Making a new front end cap will be a challenge and kinda fun. Some folks make wood ones, and some folks make aluminum ones.

David
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