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Old 06-17-2010, 06:21 AM   #1
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1978 31' Sovereign
Montverde , Florida
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Rear pans-Storage tanks

Well, it's that time. The rear tank pan has rusted through to the point that I can see too much to ignore. Have read all I have time for in old posts, but need clarification before I proceed.

1978 31' Sovereign Rear Bath

When I drop the pan, are the tanks supposed to come down with the pan or are were they mounted to the frame? I know that they may no longer be mounted, so I will take precautions. Just needed to know the possibilities.

I assume that pan is no longer commercially available, anyone had any good experiences with someone making a replacement? My skill level doesn't approach that kind of fabrication. While I am asking...Anyone know someone in Florida that is competent on fixing/reinforcing the frame?

Any other tips would be appreciated as I have searched and read other posts, however, not all apply to this trailer.

Thank you again everyone.

LA in FLA
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Old 06-17-2010, 06:51 AM   #2
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1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
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I just replaced a portion of the rear pan. It was actually 2 pieces. One piece was still in good shape, it forms the floor of the rear trunk where the hoses, power cord etc are stored. The forward piece which is below the grey water holding tank was rotted thru. I did not like the fact that the original pan had no support in the middle and no way to support it. The original material was very thin aluminum sheet. I replaced it with a piece of ribbed roofing, not corrigated, but ribbed. It comes in sheets 39" wide, it's galvanized and painted. The ribs help with the support in the middle, very little if any sagging, the old pan sagged about 2 1/2". I was not looking forward to the work it was going to take to make the repairs, but only took about 4 hours.
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Old 06-17-2010, 06:54 AM   #3
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1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
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I can tell you about at 68 Trade Wind, should be about the same on yours. Before you take the box down that supports the black tank, you need to unscrew the flange that connects it to the toilet. Also, there would be a vent line coming out of the black tank, that will need to be cut. Cut it in a place where you can add a coupler when you reinstall, don't cur right on the tank flange.
The galvanized box is an easy make for a good sheet metal shop. My local HVAC guy, I have bought a lot of equipment for him, formed mine up in 30 minutes and didn't charge me anything. Said he used scrap pieces of sheet metal. I took him a detailed drawing of what I wanted. He formed the parts of the box a, made all the bents and flanges and I cut the holes for the outlet and riveted it together. You may find a local sheet metal shop that does duct work for several local HVAC companies. Anyway ask around and it should not be very expensive. Take the old box with you or make very detailed drawings as it will simplify the job for the sheet metal shop.
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:30 PM   #4
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1978 31' Sovereign
Montverde , Florida
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Thinking that the galvanized tank tray is the least of my worries. Not surprised, I was just hoping it wasn't that bad. Photos attached. Not sure that I have the time or space it takes to get into the project. Any suggestions on a reputable shop/individual in Central Florida?



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Old 06-18-2010, 09:14 PM   #5
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Make sure whoever you get to fix it doesn't discard the foam supports under the black tank. You will need them in the new galvanized box to properly support the tank. Also get the measurements from the old box before you trash it. Definitely need some rehab on the frame while you have the black tank out. If you do find an someone to fix it make sure they put it back the way it is supposed to be. My Trade Wind had been "fixed" but it was a total mess and I had to completely redo the whole rear end.
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