Don't feel inadequate. You're probably going camping this summer. I'm not so sure about us. (I've either underestimated the project or overestimated my time availability or ability)
I'm going to try to reassemble the bath today so I can start installing appliances. (new refrig, new toilet, new stove/oven, new waterheater (in place but not "installed")
The thing still looks like a demolition project with walls stacked against the front windows, tools everywhere, and the belly wrap laying on the ground. Ugggh!!
Dennis,
Your rear floor supports look great. I'm hoping mine will be sufficient. (Don't really want to add any more to the project at this point. Probably regret it later)
On the 78 Sovereign, the water pump, water manifold, drain valves, and inlet piping is located under the street side closet, just inboard of the wheel well.
Installed the water pump and function tested ALL water systems - no leaks - all valves holding - as I write a Clorox solution is sanitizing the 50 gallon fresh water tank, and ALL of the piping......
This was a big step -
Also found out that NAPA still stocks an exact replacement for the original license plate holder assembly - NAPA part # 435W - 32 bucks.
Picture #1 - Original (as purchased) Water Inlet to Pump Area - the red hose was connected back to the suction standpipe for the pump - don't know what that was about.
Picture #2 - Original (as purchased) Water Manifold - I have no idea what was being accomplished in this area - the way it was hooked up (pump removed) the city water could not supply flow to the use areas.
Picture #3 - Flo-Sure pump installed - I picked this up about three years ago for use as a spare in the 345 - I recently found an ITT PAR 36800-1000 belt drive pump to install in the 345 - will keep the existing Flo-Sure now in the 345 as a spare.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
This morning I pumped the main tank dry - I had left the sanitizing/Clorox solution in the tank overnight -
From the odor of the water, I felt there was still some active chlorine in the water, so instead of dumping it on the ground I transferred the water to the black and gray water tank to hopefully kill whatever bugs may have taken up residence.
The specs state that, for a '78 Sovereign (31') center bath, capacities are 23 gallons main (Black), and 13 gallons aux (Gray).
For what it is worth, I measured (in a one gallon container and a five gallon bucket) how much fluid each tank took.
The main (black) tank took 30 gallons and the water level was lacking about 1/4" from being at the bottom of the toilet extension pipe, the shower pan quit taking fluid (gray tank) at 23 gallons.
I drained each of the tanks prior to commencing the "fill" test, so I think the above measurements are accurate.
At the same time, I gave the Shure-Flo (corrected name from previous post) water pump a serious workout - I would much rather it crater now rather than on a camping trip. It pumped the 53 gallons with no sign of giving up.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Check out this website. My ITT pump was fried during an electrical storm, so I called this firm and they are shipping me a new motor for the ITT PAR 36800-1000 belt drive pump. The firm has the entire rebuild kit for this type of pump.
Here's the website for the company with the phone number at the top. The best news is the new electric motor was $85 , so I am able to keep my AS as original as possible for the lowest cost. Good luck.
Some questions were asked recently about how the front mount Gaucho attaches to the wall.
Below are some pics of the gaucho mounts and extention assembly:
Pics 1 thru 3 are of the Gaucho Back to Wall Mount assembly. Note the 4" X 6" plate contour for mounting on the inside sall corner.
Pic 4 is the stop on the underside of the seat - lift the seat to extend the bottom of the gaucho forward, and the seat back drops to the horizontal position.
Pic 5 is the Wall mount assembly to Gaucho back connecting point.
Pic 6 shows same mounting area on the seat back - road side.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Rear belly pan in place (but not fully attached), front belly pan rolled back out and ready to go up, all propane lines and regulator installed. Water heater working but, in my opinion, not reliable, cooktop works great even with all 4 burners on.
What a great day to work on an RV in Houston today! Temps in mid 70's with a light breeze.
It was good this weekend to be working on the Sovereign once again instead of making the 7 hour drive each way to and from New Orleans.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Dennis,
I am amazed at the progress you have made. I am currently trying to purchase a 1978 sovereign myself and your restoration progress has me just that much more excited. Thanks for this great Pictoral progress and demonstration on how to do it right!
Phil
I too now have a 78. The posts on the forum have made a big difference in my apporach to the redo of our new bullet. So far I have been lucky, all systems work well, the floor rot was very minimal, and only very major cleaning has been needed to this point.
Next after the floor spots are solidified, I plan to paint the wall trim and cabinet trim, which was already painted white. Looking at a speckle type to cover these areas and add a bit of color.
My wife is working on fabrics for the curtains in the bedroom and wall padded boards.
After the paint we will move to flooring. I ripped out enough carpet and pad to be sure the plywood is solid.
Along the way this first week of ownership, I have tried to polish a bit, enough to know I will be stripping some panels of the old clearcoat..
Painting the tongue, applying new stripes, and all that in due time.
Its fun for me to have a list that doesn't include changing oil, spark plugs or
manifolds. Not that I didn't enjoy my motorhome but this is a different experience so far.
A new project just seems to get ya goin', know what I mean?
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Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
Dennis,
What did you use to pull your Airstream up onto the 2x12's? Great job of detailing the project, I have learned alot from reading it. Thank you so much.
Lynn
Dennis,
What did you use to pull your Airstream up onto the 2x12's? Great job of detailing the project, I have learned alot from reading it. Thank you so much.
Lynn
Elevating was done slowly....The two pics below show my trailer/tow truck set up and the detail of the "ramps" I constructed of 2 X 12 cut-offs. The leading edge of the 2 X 12's are cut at a 45 degree angle (max angle I could cut at the time with full penetration of the blade). Note that the angled ramp sections are short permitting me to remove them for better access to the underside during the renovation process. The Ford one ton diesel Cabriolet van had no problem whatsover in placing the trailer on the ramp. Any additional height would have had to been done in stages, as the ramp as you see it is the maximum height I could manage due to the belly pan interference.
Not shown in the picture is a tire stop set in the concrete to the rear of the trailer - I set a temporary brace in place against this to prevent the entire ramp section from being pushed backward during the "ramping up" process.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Did you rivet a panel over where the battery door was?
The (old, existing) upper battery vent was rivetted over with a panel on the interior, and the vent cover was reinstalled on the exterior.
The battery door was originally to be discarded, but as I did the rest of the front end cleanup I realized that there was a lot of room behind the gaucho that would be otherwise inaccessible and wasted.
The decision was made to reinstall the door and use the area as storage for hookup and towing items (weight distribution bars, levelling blocks, electric umbilicals).
The reinstallation was a bit more difficult than anticipated. A new aliminum gasket had to be cut to take up the slack left by the removal of the original plastic battery box. The gasket had to be made of a fairly thick guage of aluminum. Sealing material was laid on either side of the aluminum gasket to insure a watertight seal, and the original rivets were replaced by stainless steel torx head bolts with nylon insert SS locking nuts.
I am happy with the outcome, especially since the old battery door opening is not compromised by either the new battery box or the LPG bottles, but the entire operation took up a lot of working time.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
A milepost was reached today by the removal of the 30 year old water heater.
The instructions given for the removal in the manual are not entirely accurate. Access to the water line flare nut connectors CAN NOT be accomplished via the small panel adjacent to the shower. The entire panel adjacent to the toilet must come out.....not a job for the weak willed or wrench challenged individual. In addition to the "hidden" rivets behind the trim nosing there are three rivets in the vertical post just forward of the large panel that have to be drilled from the BACK side - this had to be done "blind" ("feel" only), left handed, and by holding the drill upside down.
Shots below show some detail of the removal - note to the next poor soul to endeavor a WH removal - remove the water line flare nuts prior to removing the exterior screws from the WH perimeter - I found it difficult to attain enough purchase against the wrenches with the screws removed first - the rear of the WH was lifting up off of the floor.
I was able to score an Atwood NOS gas/electric replacement WH on e-bay for a way reasonable price. The WH can be used with either gas or 110 volt electric, or with both heat sources operating at the same time.
With a bit of electrical magic I should be able to use the AC and the WH at the same time with a 50 amp hookup - actually two hookups - a 30 amp and a 20 amp arranged in much the same manner as the 2 AC connections on the '87 345 MoHo.
A small access panel will have to be fabricated in the large panel adjacent to the toilet - the electric element integral on/off switch and the electric thermostat reset is located on the rear end of the WH, and I DO NOT want to repeat the contortions required to remove the entire panel should I ever need to access these switches.
Double click on the cut sheet from the manual to open in a new window, then wait for the "enlargement" icon to come up to enable the pic to blow up big enough to read.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
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, so I am able to keep my AS as original as possible for the lowest cost. Good luck.
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