Well, I advanced the finish date by getting the indicator switch from Colaw's, but I took two steps backward due to installing a non-functional switch. Mumbled a loud "Crap" and fell back to plan "B", installed a combo switch/receptical unit - will add an "Indicator Light" (will probably use an attractive nite-light) at a later date. The good news is that the front end is now REALLY ready to button up - everything tested.
Also made some progress (and regress) in the rear demolition.
Dropped about half of the rear belly pan - no surprises (nor rodent carcasses), but still a nasty job. All of the rear lower interior panels are removed, and also all but two of the rear hold down bolts. Had pretty good luck by grinding off the heads of the bolts from the underside - most of the middle section of the bolts exhibited major corrosion. The rear of the wood floor is in pretty good shape, just about a foot on the drivers side and about half of that on the curb side is all that appears to require replacement. All of the bad wood is right up against the "C" channel.
I did, however, discover a potentially dangerous situation. Two of the three conductor lines inside the shore power line were worn through to the copper wire, exposing the white "neutral" and the green "ground" wires to a possible short to the trailer - made even more dangerous by a previous "repair" where the neutral and hot leads were switched at the plug - I am sure that this "wire wear" complicated my initial trouble shooting when installing the Univolt Switch. The wire was worn in the areal under the floor, but before exiting to the "storage trunk" in the rear, so it was not easily seen - this might be a good thing to check during a pre-purchase inspection (or any time during an update).
First pic is the shore line plug, with the white and black leads reversed from their proper position.
Second pic is the worn (exposed) shore power line - the white conductor was actually "hot" due to the leads being reversed in the power plug.
Third pic is the (original) cable entrance - this was the worst area of floor rot in the rear area.
Fourth is a corroded (mainframe 3/8" "C") floor bolt from the underside.
Last is one of the 1/4" "U channel" floor bolts after grinding off the head from the underside.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Removed the bumper, cleaned out the rest of the rear underbelly, and took out the two remaining rear bolts prior to cutting the bad section of wood out. One of the bolts torqued off, on the other the nut actually ran all the way off with only a rachet - I thought sure I would have to break out the impact tools.
The more I poked around at the wood in the rear the more I found needed replacing - actually, more damage was apparent after I removed the rear underbelly.
Pic one - Bumper and trunk removed.
Pic two - Rear underbelly exposed.
Pic three - Wood damage from underneath.
Pic four - Black tank bulkhead.
Pic five - Curbside interior rear panel removed.
Pic six - Rear center panel removed.
Pic seven - Rear floor damage - driver's side (rear) interior lower quarter panel.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Don't feel inadequate. You're probably going camping this summer. I'm not so sure about us. (I've either underestimated the project or overestimated my time availability or ability)
I'm going to try to reassemble the bath today so I can start installing appliances. (new refrig, new toilet, new stove/oven, new waterheater (in place but not "installed")
The thing still looks like a demolition project with walls stacked against the front windows, tools everywhere, and the belly wrap laying on the ground. Ugggh!!
Dennis,
Your rear floor supports look great. I'm hoping mine will be sufficient. (Don't really want to add any more to the project at this point. Probably regret it later)
On the 78 Sovereign, the water pump, water manifold, drain valves, and inlet piping is located under the street side closet, just inboard of the wheel well.
Installed the water pump and function tested ALL water systems - no leaks - all valves holding - as I write a Clorox solution is sanitizing the 50 gallon fresh water tank, and ALL of the piping......
This was a big step -
Also found out that NAPA still stocks an exact replacement for the original license plate holder assembly - NAPA part # 435W - 32 bucks.
Picture #1 - Original (as purchased) Water Inlet to Pump Area - the red hose was connected back to the suction standpipe for the pump - don't know what that was about.
Picture #2 - Original (as purchased) Water Manifold - I have no idea what was being accomplished in this area - the way it was hooked up (pump removed) the city water could not supply flow to the use areas.
Picture #3 - Flo-Sure pump installed - I picked this up about three years ago for use as a spare in the 345 - I recently found an ITT PAR 36800-1000 belt drive pump to install in the 345 - will keep the existing Flo-Sure now in the 345 as a spare.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
This morning I pumped the main tank dry - I had left the sanitizing/Clorox solution in the tank overnight -
From the odor of the water, I felt there was still some active chlorine in the water, so instead of dumping it on the ground I transferred the water to the black and gray water tank to hopefully kill whatever bugs may have taken up residence.
The specs state that, for a '78 Sovereign (31') center bath, capacities are 23 gallons main (Black), and 13 gallons aux (Gray).
For what it is worth, I measured (in a one gallon container and a five gallon bucket) how much fluid each tank took.
The main (black) tank took 30 gallons and the water level was lacking about 1/4" from being at the bottom of the toilet extension pipe, the shower pan quit taking fluid (gray tank) at 23 gallons.
I drained each of the tanks prior to commencing the "fill" test, so I think the above measurements are accurate.
At the same time, I gave the Shure-Flo (corrected name from previous post) water pump a serious workout - I would much rather it crater now rather than on a camping trip. It pumped the 53 gallons with no sign of giving up.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Check out this website. My ITT pump was fried during an electrical storm, so I called this firm and they are shipping me a new motor for the ITT PAR 36800-1000 belt drive pump. The firm has the entire rebuild kit for this type of pump.
Here's the website for the company with the phone number at the top. The best news is the new electric motor was $85 , so I am able to keep my AS as original as possible for the lowest cost. Good luck.
Rear belly pan in place (but not fully attached), front belly pan rolled back out and ready to go up, all propane lines and regulator installed. Water heater working but, in my opinion, not reliable, cooktop works great even with all 4 burners on.
What a great day to work on an RV in Houston today! Temps in mid 70's with a light breeze.
It was good this weekend to be working on the Sovereign once again instead of making the 7 hour drive each way to and from New Orleans.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Dennis,
I am amazed at the progress you have made. I am currently trying to purchase a 1978 sovereign myself and your restoration progress has me just that much more excited. Thanks for this great Pictoral progress and demonstration on how to do it right!
Phil
I too now have a 78. The posts on the forum have made a big difference in my apporach to the redo of our new bullet. So far I have been lucky, all systems work well, the floor rot was very minimal, and only very major cleaning has been needed to this point.
Next after the floor spots are solidified, I plan to paint the wall trim and cabinet trim, which was already painted white. Looking at a speckle type to cover these areas and add a bit of color.
My wife is working on fabrics for the curtains in the bedroom and wall padded boards.
After the paint we will move to flooring. I ripped out enough carpet and pad to be sure the plywood is solid.
Along the way this first week of ownership, I have tried to polish a bit, enough to know I will be stripping some panels of the old clearcoat..
Painting the tongue, applying new stripes, and all that in due time.
Its fun for me to have a list that doesn't include changing oil, spark plugs or
manifolds. Not that I didn't enjoy my motorhome but this is a different experience so far.
A new project just seems to get ya goin', know what I mean?
__________________
Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
Dennis,
What did you use to pull your Airstream up onto the 2x12's? Great job of detailing the project, I have learned alot from reading it. Thank you so much.
Lynn
Dennis,
What did you use to pull your Airstream up onto the 2x12's? Great job of detailing the project, I have learned alot from reading it. Thank you so much.
Lynn
Elevating was done slowly....The two pics below show my trailer/tow truck set up and the detail of the "ramps" I constructed of 2 X 12 cut-offs. The leading edge of the 2 X 12's are cut at a 45 degree angle (max angle I could cut at the time with full penetration of the blade). Note that the angled ramp sections are short permitting me to remove them for better access to the underside during the renovation process. The Ford one ton diesel Cabriolet van had no problem whatsover in placing the trailer on the ramp. Any additional height would have had to been done in stages, as the ramp as you see it is the maximum height I could manage due to the belly pan interference.
Not shown in the picture is a tire stop set in the concrete to the rear of the trailer - I set a temporary brace in place against this to prevent the entire ramp section from being pushed backward during the "ramping up" process.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Quick Links
, so I am able to keep my AS as original as possible for the lowest cost. Good luck.
Hybrid Mode
