2003 International AS - Page 5

Pahaska · 09-06-2002, 03:35 PM

To towner7

This is about my 6th Labor Day in Eureka with a trailer. We stay at the Green Tree Lodge about 2/3 mile west on 62 from the "Inn of the Hills" where our banjo rally is held.

When I arrived early Thursday afternoon, I was the only trailer in the RV park. An Airstream motorhome came in a few minutes later (another banjo player). Even at the peak of the weekend, there were 8 or 10 empty spaces there.

I only passed one Airstream on the road, though I saw quite a few parked here and there. I saw one vintage 'stream with no obvious for sale sign, but parked by the road in a way that I would expect it to be for sale. I'll post its whereabouts in the for sale forum. Maybe someone would lik to check it out.

I'll have to take a look at your photos and see what you are referring to.

Pahaska · 09-06-2002, 03:53 PM

I removed the bumper today and bumped out the dent that I received in a parking lot in Oklahoma. Four very stubborn phillips-head screws and it was off so that I could work on it.

I used a mallet and a piece of oak to bump out the dent. I then used rubbing compound to remove some embeded red paint.

I now have a smooth, shiny spot in place of the dent. I hope that it oxidizes to match the rest of the bumper.

53flyingcloud · 09-06-2002, 04:22 PM

Hi John,
this picture will show you what I meant. It's kinda rusty in picture but...this is better than velcro strips.

rbyrnesanmateo · 09-06-2002, 05:40 PM

Hi John,

Well, in speaking with a customer service rep about the laminate chipping off, we found out that assembly had a bad batch of glue, but they didn't know which batch, so in so many words or less - they are just waiting to see which folks complain.

In any case, I told my husband that I cannot stand that shower head, so we may end up replacing it all together.

Pahaska · 09-06-2002, 08:17 PM

I looked for a replacement, but I couldn't find one that wasn't too long to fit the sink. If you find a suitable one, please let me know the brand.

Pahaska · 09-06-2002, 08:20 PM

Thanks, towner7, but it is the front edge that has come loose from the piano hinge. They screwed the piano hinge to the box and then used a double-sided foam tape to attach the cover to the hinge. My guess is that the cover was oily (as stamped parts usually are) and the adhesive didn't hold.

Yours has rivets on that front edge where the foam tape is on mine. They can be seen in the photo.

The back edge of my cover has the same rings that you do (sans rust). I have small padlocks that I put in them when the trailer is in storage.

53flyingcloud · 09-06-2002, 11:09 PM

GOTCHA JOHN...
Ouch, that still doesn't sound like it's something that will hold up for the long run...
After all, these A/S units should last for a long time..
It sounds like alot of folks will end up retro fitting their units..
Another "after market" creation...
ciao

Pahaska · 09-11-2002, 05:28 PM

I drilled out the rivets holding the prop and holding the hinge to the box and removed the cover. There was an adhesive foam strip between the box and the hinge, but AS used 5 rivets to augment that foam strip. They didn't use rivets on the other joint, between the hinge and the cover, though, and that is what came loose.

I put in 7 1/8" pop-rivets to hold the cover to the hinge. I then turned the cover over and peened the rivets slightly on my anvil so that they would not interfere when closing the cover.

It is all back together and done now except for a drop of black paint on each of the visible pop-rivet heads.

Pahaska · 09-11-2002, 05:36 PM

In a prior post, I told how I had put strips of 2" wide velcro hooks on the dinette seat bottom boards to try to keep the cushions from slipping. That worked after a fashion; now the board and cushion both migrate together on the fabric-covered bottom structure of the dinette seat.

I hope I have this solved. I had several packs of chair braces hanging on the shop wall from earlier projects. I put three of these braces on each seat bottom board; two on the forwatd edge and one on the end. Some experimental "scootching around" on the dinette has me convinced that the cushions will finally stay in place.

The braces wouldn't be my first choice for the job, but they were available and seem to do the trick. The photo shows two of the three braces.

Pahaska · 09-11-2002, 05:58 PM

Both my street intersection and my driveway require uphill turns such that the trailer drags if the turns are not hit perfectly. One of my first changes was to put drag wheels on the trailer for the times that I don't hit the turns just right. I had this set of drag wheels in the shop because they didn't fit a former trailer. They didn't fit this one, either, without a struggle.

I had to take about 1/8" off the trailer drag bars to get the bracket to slip in place. I used my angle grinder for this task. The instructions show the axle clamped below the drag bars. I didn't want the wheels this low, so I moved the axle up into the angle of the bars.

This brought up several problems:
1: how to allow the stabilizer crank to be inserted.
2. how to get the stabilizer pads out of the way.
3. how to attach the wheel carrier.

To get the stabilizer pads out of the way, I unbolted the stabilizer pads and used a removeable pin to reattach them when needed. They "ride" in the bumper storage. See photo, below. I had to run a bit through the holes in the arms to remove excess paint to get the pins to go through.

(continued)

Pahaska · 09-11-2002, 06:05 PM

To clamp the drag wheel bracket in place without blocking access for the stabilizer cramk, I made 4 strong brackets out of 1" wide aircraft steel. The brackets have a broad U-shape and are individually ground to a force-fit in the drag bar. They are tight enough that I had to drive them in place. The brackets were given a good coat of RustOleum before installation. To insure the brackets stay in place, I put a 3/16" pop-rivet in each one.

In the photo, you can see my the edge of my handmade brackets.

Pahaska · 09-11-2002, 06:14 PM

Here is another view of the finished project. You can see here why the stabilizer pad had to be removed to clear the wheel.

I bought the drag wheels from Camping World and I see that they still stock them. The wheels tends to get dragged sideways just a bit when turning uphill. I figure they will have to be replaced once each year or so. Camping World has replacement wheels real cheap; I think they were about $5 a set.

Pahaska · 09-15-2002, 03:23 PM

I just returned from the Highland Lakes Unit rally at Seguin, TX. I enjoyed the rally and the trailer. This was a short trip, but the trailer worked like a champ.

Pahaska · 09-15-2002, 03:41 PM

I weighed my trailer and truck on the way to the rally. The 221 truck stop at Buda, TX has a great scale that I have used on prior trailers. The scale weighs each axle group separately. My weighings cost $8.

I first moved the equalizer chains to the last notch, releasing all tension. I then weighed truck and trailer together. The pair weighed 10,440. I then dropped the trailer and weighed the truck alone. The truck weighs 5600.

The trailer, thus, weighs 4840, or just 160# below gross. I had 1/4 tank of fresh water, other tanks empty, and the usual things aboard for a short (3-night) trip. The only heavy items were a microwave and my banjo (yes, they are heavy). Tongue weight is 580#, well above the 10& minimum.

I expected the high weight since my trailer has every option except the spare tire. I'll carry a spare in the truck bed if at all.

On the good side, the axles and the tires are well under their rated load.