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SpitFireRX · 06-23-2016, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _ally

I am so grateful to see a SHELL ON subfloor replacement. Thank-you so much for posting. I don't have the resources or space to build gantries and I was about to give up on my Airstream dream until I saw this. There's a 1968 Overlander with some rear subfloor rot where I live and I've gone to see it twice already (it's not going anywhere---we're on a big island). Now to sort out if I can do a floor replacement in 2 weeks full-time + 4-5 weekends. I still have no idea how difficult it is to put everything back in afterward (I'm most worried about refitting/replacing pipes... my plumbing knowledge is severely lacking).

Thanks for showing us your progress and sharing your knowledge!

I struggled with the decision of going Shell on/off for a while too, changing my mind once or twice. Came to the same conclusions just like you I don't have the resources or i feared the time investing in building the gantries and doing the shell off would be the demise of the project. In general the shell on has been easier then some suggest.

I had almost no plumbing experience other than a few simple PCV pipe repairs.

The Pex Sharkbite system so far has been very easy to deal with, and i would recommend replacing ALL the incoming piping. The Drain pipes aren't pressurized and mine were in good condition. haven't turned my water system on yet so take it with a grain of salt.

the biggest thing you need to check on that trailer is the condition of the frame. If its got rear rot then most likely got rear rust as well. even if the rust is only on the surface you'll still want to grind and paint.

SpitFireRX · 06-23-2016, 09:33 AM

Well i got a Bamboo Countertop! 6ft x 36in x 1 1/4 thick

Soild bamboo core too, all for 99$!!!! insane

Hopefully cutting this weekend!

SpitFireRX · 07-01-2016, 12:10 PM

Got it cut Last weekend without any disasters, used a circle saw. New diablo blade, Highly recommend doing 3/4in passes if you dont have a table saw.

The level is clamped down so i can run the circle saw right against it for a straight line.

turnstray · 12-21-2016, 12:45 PM

Thank you so much for this resource! How's everything going? I am doing a shell-on subfloor replacement of a 78 excella and I have a few quick questions. With your shell-on replacement, did you drop all of the belly pans or just the rear? What did you use to bolt the c channel into the frame? Finally, where did you source your steel? Did you have to replace the frame piece between the grey and black water tanks that the middle of the belly pan was bolted to? Do you know the gauge and height? Glad you got your subfloor done! I bet thats a relief!

SpitFireRX · 01-03-2017, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turnstray

Thank you so much for this resource! How's everything going? I am doing a shell-on subfloor replacement of a 78 excella and I have a few quick questions. With your shell-on replacement, did you drop all of the belly pans or just the rear? What did you use to bolt the c channel into the frame? Finally, where did you source your steel? Did you have to replace the frame piece between the grey and black water tanks that the middle of the belly pan was bolted to? Do you know the gauge and height? Glad you got your subfloor done! I bet thats a relief!

Dropped the belly pan but it was partially removed when i bought it.

Elevator bolts http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...-p/vts-375.htm

Metaldepot.com

I dont believe i replaced the frame piece your referring to, id have to look at it again to see what its made of.

SpitFireRX · 01-03-2017, 09:21 AM

Sorry for being MIA for a while, here's some updates.

Not moving as fast as i want, but making progress.

Counter top cut and installed, Oven installed but no gas lines hooked up yet. Need to replace some bent\damaged copper propane lines. Is copper still the way to go?

Made 4 wood drawers, they dont have a face on them yet your just looking at the rear of the drawer.

Created simple guides using 2x1s and mounted 3 of the original plastic drawers

installed new sink from Etrailer.com 25x15 still waiting on drain assembly.

So much to do its a struggle sometimes, Need to keep moving forward!

trekerboy · 01-03-2017, 11:07 AM

Keep the updates coming! Great to watch your progress on this build.

rhutson · 01-03-2017, 11:09 AM

Spitfire,
Very nice work. We have a 1980 international that we purchased a few years ago on ebay. Used it a few times until black tank leak detected. It has sat since. With two kids and wife, and a job, not much time left in day. Enjoy seeing your shell on work as if I ever get the time would like to follow suit. Very impressive. Thanks for sharing and keep the pics coming.
Rick.

SpitFireRX · 01-09-2017, 09:59 AM

Drain assemblies installed, now i need a faucet!

SpitFireRX · 01-24-2017, 09:38 AM

Making more progress, getting my plan for the bathroom going. Will be copying this bathroom design. https://youtu.be/ohsY5NI_lXw

Also will be replacing the water fill with a shurflo inlet.

Sent from my LG-H910 using Airstream Forums mobile app

SpitFireRX · 02-09-2017, 09:06 AM

Man I wish i had more time to work on the Airstream! Definitely feeling motivated these days,

Decided to change the water inlet due to rain water leaking into the fresh tank, and it will be much better anyway. The Surflo inlet has a built in pressure regulator as well.

It was easy to drill out and i got the aluminum panel sized and holes drilled out for riveting. Just need to get some help to rivet it in.

SpitFireRX · 02-28-2017, 09:47 AM

OK thing are getting done!

Here's some progress on the bathroom,

Built a platform with treated plywood that covers the wheel well to use as seating in the shower. Its angled so water will run off if it does get wet.

Didn't really do much formal planning on this one just kinda winged it!
Built a simple counter top with two cedar 2x8s side by side and 2x4 cedar for legs. Counter is about 42in wide and just under 16in deep.

Needed a good sanding because it was rough cut, then i drilled pocket holes and used short 2x1 pieces that i secured to the bottom to also provide support. (and liquid nails) Sealed with 3 coats of Poly

Sinkology Hammered copper vessel sink via amazon, oil rubbed waterfall faucet also amazon

Cut the holes for the sink and faucet, then did the 3rd coat of poly.

SpitFireRX · 02-28-2017, 10:01 AM

Using galvanized corrugated steel roofing panels for the shower wall. fairly light but strong.

Cut them with an angle grinder, its not secured just yet i need to finish pluming and insulation first. Also looking for some kind of rubber trim to cover and better seal the edges to the wall.

SpitFireRX · 03-06-2017, 03:26 PM

Finished the water inlet install! (Need to get the hose for the interior side)

Shower is progressing too ill have an update on that later. Instead of the farm trough for the shower pan i might just tile it.

SpitFireRX · 03-28-2017, 10:41 AM

Got the Water inlet hoses connected. Ended up using PEX as the connections on both ends were 1/2 in and i already had the pipe and one connection.

Here is a picture of the tile im going to use (pre install)

Shifting on the plan for the shower, going to make a shower pan with fiberglass and Gel coat it white. Never played with fiberglass so this will be new for me.

Here is the frame for the shower pan.

rhutson · 03-28-2017, 11:40 AM

SpitfireRX,
Nice work all around. I am way behind you on my 1980 international 25 ft Bath renovaction but I look forward to going back through all that you have done. Thanks for all your posts and pics!
Rick.

trekerboy · 03-29-2017, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpitFireRX

Got the Water inlet hoses connected. Ended up using PEX as the connections on both ends were 1/2 in and i already had the pipe and one connection.

Here is a picture of the tile im going to use (pre install)

Shifting on the plan for the shower, going to make a shower pan with fiberglass and Gel coat it white. Never played with fiberglass so this will be new for me.

Here is the frame for the shower pan.

We ended up building our shower out of aluminum and gel coating it white. Didn't think of using fiberglass! That probably would have been much easier.

On piece of advice... if you are planning on putting a slotted teak wood floor in the pan (which we did), plan to be able to access underneath the teak because you'll have to clear out the drain when it gets gummed-up with hair and whatnot. We didn't plan for this, and now whenever we lift out the teak floor it scratches the gel coat on the aluminum

SpitFireRX · 04-17-2017, 03:14 PM

OK i probably should have done this in my first post but

***i am not an expert!**
ive made plenty of mistakes in my rebuild and im doing most of this for the first time. So things may not be perfect and im learning as i go along.

So my first attempt at fiberglass was weak at best. Multiple sanding was required after the first layer wasn't the smoothest. Probably put too much hardener and just plain inexperience.

I tried using a regular sander for a while then upgraded to my angle grinder with a resin sanding disk. Night and day difference. Sanding fiberglass btw is a nightmare. After sanding I did another layer of fiberglass and enforced the corners.

Using aluminium with gelcoat probably would have been easier.

I must point out one flaw of my design. Since the shower pan is not removable if i ever have major issue with the P trap it will be a headache. i do have access to the P trap by removing the wood board by the entrance to the shower pan but its tight. Drain also not removable.

Gelcoating was easy just don’t try to work it after it starts to solidify. Did 2 coats. Definitely not as smooth as I was hoping for, will probably sand and do another gelcoat.

I finished placing the tile on the vertical wall, except for some of the adhesive coming though in between the tile it came out ok. Adhesive might have been too think or I pressed too hard on the tile.

Thanks for following along!

SpitFireRX · 04-20-2017, 08:39 AM

Used Fusion Pro (pewter) to grout the tile, it doesn't need to be sealed and will helpfully resist cracking. Almost went with a polyurethane/silicone/epoxy but decided the install would be too difficult and i was worried that the grout would be uneven and ugly.

Found a rubber washing machine hose at the depot that i can run along the edge of the steel wall. Should close any gaps with the roof and interior walls.

Need to put water lines where the shower valve will be then i can put the steel wall in permanently.

I cut out a piece of ridged insulation to seal the refrigerator vent as i will be using a 12v fridge/freezer.

Next up!
Will be making the the curb side water pump cabinet soon, reinstalling the front battery doors, re-riveting a couple feet of the external skin on the curb side,

Still lots to do!

SpitFireRX · 04-24-2017, 12:11 PM

Got the wall back in place and got the shower valve installed!

Put a few gallons of water in the fresh tank and pressure tested the system. Some initial leaks on the connections to the shower valve but got that fixed.

Cant Recommend Sharkbite Pex tubing and fittings enough, push fittings and they never leak.

Also insulated the pex tubing