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Old 07-19-2016, 02:54 PM   #21
3 Rivet Member
 
1972 27' Overlander
Saline , Michigan
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 189
Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster View Post
You have 2 choices. The easiest (I find) is to remove the roof vent cover and the screen beneath it and place the fans under the screen. It is fairly easy to run a 2 conductor wire down beside the fridge and tap into the 12VDC power supply at the back of the fridge. You must remove 10 rivets that hold down the cover and then 8 more that hold the screen.

This is a seamless operation while I have the cover off for pulling solar cables, cell antenna cables and any other wires that will be for on-roof devices.

The other way is to remove the fridge and work from the inside of the trailer. This also works, since it leaves the cover intact but you have to have a helper to get the fridge out.

I prefer the outside method, even if it was just for the installation of the fans. I also add a fuse to the power cable (I usually use 14/2 AWG marine cable with a 15 amp fuse) and also adda alighted switch in the interior of the trailer for manual operation of the fan. You can go as small as 18 AWG, since the fans I use only draw about 0.15 amps, with a 10 amp fuse.

Remember, a fuse is sized to protect the wire, not the device.

Hope this helps.
Lew,

or others..
What fan models do you like for roof fridge vent, I am looking for a good combination of high cfm and low amp as we plan to travel in southern Utah part of the time without AC hookup, trying to conserve battery power.

Steve
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