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Old 01-25-2011, 07:43 AM   #29
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That is a great splice. That is the kinda the way an old wooden boat builder would do it. Dont ask me how I know. Sal.
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:11 AM   #30
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Wheels Turning

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Originally Posted by pb379_2010 View Post
JS,
That lap joint will be just fine. I'm sure that it'll be just as strong as one piece. What type of plywood are you using? I know in an earlier post you said you got some Marine ply. Maybe it's the lighting or you have used a sealer but, from the pics it looks like green pressure treated plywood. There are many people that will tell you that pressure treated ply should not be used as sub floor because of the potential corrosion with the "C" channel. Something about copper.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ver-72793.html

Thanks PB,

Well you got my wheels turning today as I am no wood expert. I called the Local Lumber yard this morning and got to asking questions. They pulled my order and insisted that I have the correct wood and reminded me that was why they had to order it cause they normally dont carry it in the store. I proceeded to tell him I had to be sure due to the Copper Aluminum mixture and well I lost him on that one....LOL..But thanks for pointing that out. Im sure am glad I have a place like this were ppl chime in for info. Like it says under your screen name "Always Learning" That I am.
By the way its prolly a combo of lighting and yesterday me and my camera were not getting along. It has a mind of its own and Mrs. S had to get it off the sunset setting or something. I just push the button till it flashes.
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:16 AM   #31
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The Mighty Gorilla glue!

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Originally Posted by bwoodtx View Post
i'm thinkin' if you use gorilla glue(found @lowes) and put your elevator bolts through it and maybe some coarse drywall screws strategically placed, it should be bulletproof.
jmho.
Ive had one experience with GORILLA GLUE... I used it on another project about 6 weeks ago and got it all over my hands....then I tried to wash it off....then I realized that its water activated....CRAP! I tried to git it off with paint thinner, gas, diesel, degreaser, and mineral spirits without any luck. So after three days of wearing the glue on my hands and Mrs S laughing her butt off I got on the internet and searched for a remedy.....Pretty much found out there wasnt one. So I got some sand paper out the barn and literally scrubed it off, some hide went with it...Needless to say that was a first and last time with that stuff. Its funny now but so wasnt then!
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Old 01-25-2011, 03:45 PM   #32
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Question Excella still got surprises!!! HELP!!!

Ok people need some help here! Dont fail me now!

Got tired of waiting on the UPS man today and decided to get something done on the AS. So I began to remove the tile in the front of the trailer the PO laid down.

They used a glue under the tiles and its a MESS. Its like trying to chip concrete out of there. Some of the original flooring even comes out with it. And to make matters even worse some one has already done a sub floor job and they never even came close to getting into the C channel. They just cut it to lay even with the interior and used caulk to keep the air out...

So now Im stuck with this mess. So what now? Do I just remove enough tile to make the correct sub floor replacement and then just lay my new floor ( havnet decided what we are going to put yet) over the rest of the tiles or do I remove them all. HOW?? Heat gun maybe??
Hope some one's got a good idea cause Im stuck....
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:23 PM   #33
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Well Mr. S it looks like you have joined the full monte club. The floor is the main structural component joining the shell to the frame. To make it right you will need to remove the PO's attempt at a floor repair. This is quite involved, you will have to remove the lower onterior panels to get at the bolts holding the C channel to the frame. You are also going to need to get the belly pan removed to get at the bolts from below. This work can be done with the shell on but is trickier to do it that way. Looks like it's shell off for you my friend.
If you need some advice just ask.
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:59 PM   #34
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That's kinda what it is looking like from here..
What kind of shape is your chassis in? Can you tell?
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:46 PM   #35
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geez does that look familar...Other than the shock of realizing that now you need to work on BOTH ends...it's not that big of a deal...just another piece or two of ply and some more time...

I have no idea on the tile removal...that fits into the "crazy PO Repairs" section

Great looking work so far...I'm sure you will find that its not very hard to remove the outside corner plastic pieces from the belly. That will give you access to the needed outriggers so you can install nutz.
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:07 PM   #36
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Shell Off??

Hmm I dont think Im to the point of needing to do a shell off. Im not expert but I pretty sure that I can make the same repair to the front as Im already in the process of on the rear bedroom. The only section they tried to repair is a small section on the curb side front. Looked like a quick fix to get it sold. Then they laid new tile. I did push the interior panel in and look in with a flash light and everything as far as the C channel looked fine. The only thing Im stuck on is getting the tile out...its such a mess. For now I will just focus on getting my rear bedroom flooring back in then Ill tackle the front and see what the real damage is.

Thanks for the comment HiHoAgRV, when I discovered the front needed repair too I instanly thought of your thread and how you had to do the same thing....Very similar story huh?

As the old saying goes....."Rome wasnt built in a day"
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:13 PM   #37
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jsmith have you tried a heat gun to soften up the glue holding down the tiles. I know another member had great success removing factory tiles that were 40yrs old with a heat gun. The glue softened right up and most of the tiles came up in one piece.
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:22 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris
jsmith have you tried a heat gun to soften up the glue holding down the tiles. I know another member had great success removing factory tiles that were 40yrs old with a heat gun. The glue softened right up and most of the tiles came up in one piece.
No haven't tried a heat gun yet. I will get one tomorrow and give it a try. It's the only thing I can think of to try. Thanks for your input.
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:30 PM   #39
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I think a lot of the problem you are having is the original floor is OSB. The tile glue really adheres to the strands making it difficult to remove without damaging the floor. It is also the main reason you have so much floor rot. OSB does not like to get wet. It just swells up and the water soluable glue dissolves and the floor just falls apart.
MGP (marine grade plywood) is the way to go for replacement. When I did mine I left the cut offs out in the rain for weeks and absolutely nothing happened to them. This was on raw plywood that had not been sealed. If you seal up MGP for the new floor it will last for many many decades without problems. I never understood why the mothership started using OSB in the first place. There are 2005's with serious floor rot. They have since switched back to plywood.
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:41 PM   #40
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Quote:
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I think a lot of the problem you are having is the original floor is OSB. The tile glue really adheres to the strands making it difficult to remove without damaging the floor. It is also the main reason you have so much floor rot. OSB does not like to get wet. It just swells up and the water soluable glue dissolves and the floor just falls apart.
MGP (marine grade plywood) is the way to go for replacement. When I did mine I left the cut offs out in the rain for weeks and absolutely nothing happened to them. This was on raw plywood that had not been sealed. If you seal up MGP for the new floor it will last for many many decades without problems. I never understood why the mothership started using OSB in the first place. There are 2005's with serious floor rot. They have since switched back to plywood.
Yes I agree the sum of all evils is the OSB. Hopefully the heat gun will soften the glue so that it wont damage the original OSB flooring. I am going back with MGP so hopefully this will end some of these problems. Ive search all over the trailer and the rest of the flooring seems to be fine its just the front and rear that seem to have floor rot. Looks to me like the PO's didnt take time to seal the trailer over time. I have no idea why a company would use OSB in a travel trailer but they did....Hopefully they see what they put people through and learn a lesson.
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Old 01-26-2011, 06:15 PM   #41
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Busy Day

Well I went to the hardware store today and bought a heat gun. Man that works really well for getting the tiles up that the PO glued down. Just heat them up and pull on them alittle at a time and they will come off in there full form. So if anyone else runs into this problem grab a heat gun.

After I pulled up the tiles I needed to get a good look at my next floor repair I decided to touch up the end cap I painted for Mrs. S and install her new lights. Turned out really good. She's so proud of her color she picked out.

And I changed out the electrical plug since it was much needed.

Finally while I was picking up the tools to call it a day the UPS man come flying into the drive way and guess what??? He had my POR-15. I now have the area preped cleaned and ready for the POR but decided to wait till tomorrow to apply didnt want it to get damp tonight and ruin it. So tomorrow should be a really busy day!
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:01 PM   #42
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J- What did you paint the end cap with? any special prep?
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