We just purchased a 1999 A/S Bambi 19' and will be pulling with a 2000 Toyota Tundra V-8. I had a Valley hitch installed by the local U-Haul company location. I have pulled the trailer about 150 miles and like the way the trailer tracks. So far I am very pleased with the hitch as installed by U-Haul.
I have already winterized the A/S by blowing out the water lines with 60# pressure and opeing all drain lines including removing the plug from the water heater. I placed a couple of cups of R/V antifreeze in all P traps.
I am interested in knowing how other A/S owners feel about using a compressor to blow out the lines versus placing R/V antifreeze in the in water lines.
I am also interested in tips on how the best methods to use the toilet since my A/S only has an 8 gallon black water tank.
Love the A/S forum, it was a big help in getting this far with our first travel trailer.
I just blow my lines out as well. I have done it both ways, but I have never suffered freeze damage after just blowing them out. I suppose that if there is any doubt about whether or not you've gotten your lines water-free, antifreeze is probably a good insurance policy.
When we winterized my Dad's motorhome this year, we blew it out, then pumped antifreeze in. It's what he wanted.
So there, a REALLY non-committal answer to your question!!!
Roger
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AIR 2053 “A generation which ignores history has no past and no future.” Robert Heinlein 2006 Bigfoot 25B25RQ towed by a 2001 Born Free 23RK moho
Jim,
My dealer uses the blow out method to winterize trailers. The key he told me is pressure. At 60lbs. you should have forced the moisture out of the lines. I only have a 12 volt pump and it really doesn't have the volume to dry out the lines. With this in mind I do use RV antifreeze after blowing out the lines.
Jack
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Jack Canavera
STL Mo. AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.
'03 GMC Savana 2500
'08 Vespa GTS 250
We blow out the lines using a compressor and then I pump in about a gallon of antifreeze and then run all the taps until I see pink.
Our winter temperature can plummet to -25°F.
I've always been told to use an oiless compressor so that it does not leave oil residue in your lines. Also 60 lbs sounds high to me especially considering that my water regulator is set at 40 - I never use more than 45lbs. I realize most systems can take up to 100lbs, but I don't want to find out.
I use compressed air from an oil-less compressor. I wouldn't trust it on a vintage coach with copper plumbing, however. The new Pex tubing has much greater tolerance for freezing than copper.
I also leave all the faucets open as freeze damage to a faucet can be expensive.
I use a 12 volt compressor, thus I can't really get the lines void of all moisture. I usually pump in antifreeze afterwards to verify there is no water in the system.
My dealer blew out my new Classic. He was using around 60 lbs or so, so the lines were pretty dry. After completion of that task he still did pump in a small amount of antifreeze to make sure that the water pump was protected. Blowing out the lines will not take care of the water pump.
Regards,
Jack
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Jack Canavera
STL Mo. AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.
'03 GMC Savana 2500
'08 Vespa GTS 250
IMHO, if you use RV antifreeze correctly (making sure you see the red stuff coming out of all faucets, toilet, and drains), you'll be fine. This process, when done correctly, makes blowing out the lines redundant. With the H/W heater bypassed, I'm only using about a gallon of the stuff. The only section of the system not protected by this proceedure is the F/W tank and the pipe leading to the water pump, which should have been drained beforehand (obviously, the H/W tank should be drained).
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