Problem report/Tank Saver Flushing Tool

[wyhjr]

A few months ago there was a thread about problems with the refrigerator flame blowing out when traveling. The suggested fix was to install a furnace filter inside the acess door.
I want to report that during a recent 2000mi trip to Fla and back, I had no problems with the refrig. shutting down with the filter in place. This with wet and windy conditions while traveling both ways.
On the other hand, my water heater continues to perplex me. I replaced the thermostats before leaving on the trip. The heater worked fine for 5 or 6 days and then started to act up. It would light up and burn for about 20 min. Then the relief valve started to drizzle and shortly after the heater locked out and could not be restarted until it completely cooled down. What should I try next? The control module?
I am considering installing an electric heater element thru the drain opening.

[jcanavera]

Bill,
I guess I would start thinking the control module also. The fact that the burner is not shutting down and you start to see leakage from the relief valve gives evidence that you are probably going overtemp. Relief valves work on pressure or temperature. Some drips can be normal but the fact that the gas shuts down tells me that your burner valve is not sticking open.

My only other thought would be the potential that the sensor within the tank is corroded over, which is insulating its ability to detect the water temperature. I'm having this problem with my home water heater. I'm getting some pretty wide swings from too cool to to hot with the relief valve (newly replaced) now dripping.

I don't know if you have ever flushed out your heater tank but I bought a nifty tool that helps keep your heater clean. Its a long thin copper rod with a small shut off lever and threads to mate to a hose. The thin rod inserts through the water heater drain which allows you the ability to direct a high pressure thin stream of water through the insides of the tank. The end of the rod is curved to allow you to hit most of the insides of the tank with the high pressure water blast. I use mine each fall as I'm winterizing the trailer. Its surprising to see how much stuff comes out of the drain when I use this.

Bottom line with the trailer being a 2000 model, corrosion should'nt be that bad yet. While it wouldn't hurt to flush that tank, I would be leaning towards a board replacement.

Regards,

Jack

[wyhjr]

Jack,
Thanks for your insight. I'll keep you posted on my progress or lack thereof.
Where did you obtain the flush fitting? At a hardware store? Lowes, Home Depot?

[jcanavera]

No I got this at either Camping World or some other RV store. I've had this for at least 6 years. Its made by Northwest Leisure Products
17843 SE MCLOUGHLIN BLVD
PORTLAND, OR
97267-6100
Phone: 503-654-7229

You may be able to call them and find out who is handling this. Its call a Tank Saver. Here is a picture of it.

[wyhjr]

Thanks for the info, Jack!
I'll see if I can latch onto one.

[lbrodsky]

Hi, Jack!

Where did you get that copper tube you use to flush out your water heater? Sounds like a handy gadget.

Lew Brodsky
Springfield, VA
2001 Safari 27'

[femuse]

Before you decide to buy a "Hot Rodd" style element, you should read my post Hott Rod & Lightnin' Rod.
It's actually a warning I found on another forum. It's seems to explain why a lot of people (including us) had problems with their heaters.

[jcanavera]

Originally posted by lbrodsky
Hi, Jack!

Where did you get that copper tube you use to flush out your water heater? Sounds like a handy gadget.

Lew Brodsky
Springfield, VA
2001 Safari 27'

Lew, I thought I bought it at a Camping World although its been over 5 years ago. I've looked all over and can't seem to find anyone handling this item. I've even tried to look for the manufacturer on the Internet and can't find them.

If you can't find this you should be able to flush the tank somewhat by hooking up the city water side and turning that on after you drained the tank. It probably won't be quite as good as the scour that my tube does but it should help get rid of some of the stuff that collects in the tank.

Jack

[jcanavera]

I was in Nashville about 3 weeks ago and did my annual pass through Camping World. Much to my surprise I again found the Tank Saver water heater flushing tool. Its changed a little from the one I have since the copper tube is now plastic but all else is the same.

For those of you reading this post, reread the thread. This is a great aid in prolonging the life of your water heater. Those not able to get this from Camping World might contact the manufacturer.

The package at Camping World showed the manufacturer was NW Leasure Products 503-982-7514, Portland Oregon.

Regards,

Jack

[john hd]

jack

good find on the tank saver!

originally this tread started about whyjr's t and p valve leaking.

my water heater manual points out that if this happens, drain the heater.

this is because the heater needs a small amount of air space in it to operate properly. if used for extended periods the air will be absorbed, leaving no room for expantion as the water heats up.

this causes the relief valve to drool. also possibly causing the "lock out" he was experiencing.

cleaning the tank is a good idea, it also allows for the air bubble to be refreshed.

john

[davidz71]

Jack,
I picked up one of the Tank Savers at Camping World in Nashville after your post sometime within the last year. It was everything you said it was except the tube was plastic as you just stated in this post. I sure did get a mess of stuff out of my water heater when I cleaned it out 4 months ago.

[jcanavera]

David,
Getting that stuff out of the tank will make a big difference in extending your tank life. Glad you found it also. It will be time to winterize in a few weeks. I ususally clean mine out once a year at this time.

Regards,

Jack