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badpaddler · 06-07-2015, 10:50 PM

That is what I figured. I am planning on running MC 2 conductor (red and black) for DC and standard 3 wire (black white ground) for the AC except where more is needed. I also picked up the mineral wool. I decided to use some 1 1/2" boxes where I will be putting my electrical outlets and such in. More of an anal issue of mine, so not sure if it is necessary.

What size copper did you use? Simple 3/8" with flares? I have access to a pex/ everlock tool, so I was going to go that direction with that. Pretty high speed fitting, that you would NEVER have to worry about leaking.

I will pick up some of the tempro tonight.

Thanks,

Seth

badpaddler · 06-09-2015, 10:49 AM

Here are a couple of pics of the banana wraps. The beat up one had a creased 2 inch deep fold going about 2/3 down the long side, which actually tore the metal. Managed to get it back into decent shape though with the english wheel. Better than plastic in my opinion. Got the curb side put on last night.

Another question for you. The airstream letters on the front are held in place with little spring nuts on the back. Meaning that if I need to paint them, right now would be the best time. just pop them off, mask, and paint. How do you polish around them after you put them back on? I know the side trim I will just pull off, then polish, then paint the trim and pop rivet it back on, but I can't do that with these?

Same side before undenting.

JRF0st3r · 06-10-2015, 06:59 AM

Seth,
My banana wraps were is sorry shape as well and that was one of the first repairs undertaken with help from my metal craftsman brother in law.
My AS nameplate was one plate, not letters. For your letters it looks like taking them off would permit polishing the skin around them. I used Olympic rivets for exterior.
You asked about propane tubing size. I have not replaced mine yet but it used 1/2" tube as the spine and changed to 3/8" for each appliance.
Jim

badpaddler · 06-10-2015, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRF0st3r

Seth,
My banana wraps were is sorry shape as well and that was one of the first repairs undertaken with help from my metal craftsman brother in law.
My AS nameplate was one plate, not letters. For your letters it looks like taking them off would permit polishing the skin around them. I used Olympic rivets for exterior.
You asked about propane tubing size. I have not replaced mine yet but it used 1/2" tube as the spine and changed to 3/8" for each appliance.
Jim

Makes sense. I was thinking I should go ahead and polish that area when I do the letter. I need to go pick up some Rustoleum Royal Blue today. I will have to order some 1/8" olympics. Damn things are pricey though.....

aholmquist · 09-13-2015, 06:33 PM

Did you split the roxul or put the whole 3" thickness in your walls. I can't for the life of me find the thickness of the walls to determine what I need to buy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRF0st3r

Reflectix is a radiant barrier, apparently effective for that purpose as long as there is an air space. If installed tightly and taped, it becomes a vapor barrier. Vapor barriers are effective on the "warm side" in reducing moisture transmission. For your climate, warm side should normally be on the inside. Avoid having 2 vapor barriers as this could trap moisture between layers. I doubt Reflectix provides much insulation benefit but there are those who swear it does.

That Safe & Sound product is what I am using for walls and ceiling. I ordered 3 12-pak bundles and am a bit more than half complete with more than 1 1/2 packages left. I think I'll have some left over.

On the one panel where I have my refrigerator and console there were so many wires that I used a layer of Reflectix and no mineral fiber. After it's all complete I'll be able to see what the difference is between interior skin temperature here compared to using mineral fiber.
I replaced belly pan only beneath the blackwater tank and did that with the body still riveted in place.
Jim

JRF0st3r · 09-14-2015, 08:19 AM

aholmquist,
I bought the 3" Roxul and used an electric fish fillet (or meat carving) knife to slice each batt in half. In general the AirStream walls are 1.5" thick.
Jim

aholmquist · 09-15-2015, 07:00 AM

Thank you Jim! Looks like you put reflectix over the top too? Boy that doesn't give a very high R-factor then does it. :/ I have been trying to determine the best insulation for FT in a cold climate but I guess I will have to move with the good weather! Yours is looking very nice! I had been searching for the thickness of the walls so now I know! Thank you!

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRF0st3r

aholmquist,
I bought the 3" Roxul and used an electric fish fillet (or meat carving) knife to slice each batt in half. In general the AirStream walls are 1.5" thick.
Jim

JRF0st3r · 09-16-2015, 05:04 AM

Aholmquist,
Initially I bought some Reflectix but returned all but one roll and used some of that in one spot where the wall was so filled with wiring that batt insulation would not fit. There are lots of opinions about the effectiveness of Reflectix but I believe it is a radiant barrier with a low R-value, not what I needed.
Jim

badpaddler · 03-21-2018, 01:37 PM

The party has started yet again. The better half finally decided what she wants to do with the pickle. It was between a food truck, mobile boutique, or, get this, a camper. The latter is what we decided on. So. I just picked up the aluminum for the belly pan and inside. The wire loom that I am going to use go delivered last night, and I happen to have some XHHW wire sitting around. I will be starting with running the wiring tonight!

JRF0st3r · 03-26-2018, 09:24 AM

Our Safari is is a camper as well. Interior is finished and polishing will be complete in the next month. Will add an awning next month.
We used SketchUp to model what we wanted in 3D, see attached. The front lounge slides out to make a queen size bed. The kitchen length was increased by losing one closet. Bathroom fixtures, not shown in the model, were refinished and toilet was replaced. Between bed and gaucho is the refrigerator and control center.
Jim

badpaddler · 03-26-2018, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRF0st3r

Our Safari is is a camper as well. Interior is finished and polishing will be complete in the next month. Will add an awning next month.
We used SketchUp to model what we wanted in 3D, see attached. The front lounge slides out to make a queen size bed. The kitchen length was increased by losing one closet. Bathroom fixtures, not shown in the model, were refinished and toilet was replaced. Between bed and gaucho is the refrigerator and control center.
Jim

Your sketchup force is strong. I wish I had the patience to learn it. I have it on the computer, but by the time I get done with work, I am sick of computers. We ended up put a wardrobe where the fridge originally was, and using the same set you had for your kitchen, with the exception of a 12 inch wide cabinet on the end where the control panels are. Other than that, it is pretty much the same setup as original.

I got done with the majority of the wiring yesterday. Still have to run a 12VDC circuit over the top to the other side for the reading lights, furnace (which is under the setee now), water heater (which is under the cabinet where your fridge is), and pump. We are putting in 2 potable tanks, and changing to just the single larger greywater tank. That may change when I get under and measure t6he bays by the axles to see if I can put 2 tanks there. We will have about 200 pound of batteries in the back, so I would like to move more weight forward towards the axles. A lot depends on what I can get shipped up here for cheap. Wiring I am using XHHW 14AWG for the small circuits and 12AWG for the AC unit. XHHW will help with our cold weathers. I am running them all in PET braided wire loom to help abrasion. Just wanna make sure I don't forget anything before I put the new wall panels on. Now I have to move around some hatches though, and patch the giant hole where the water heater used to be. WHat did you do for patching any uneeded holes?

Thanks,

Seth

JRF0st3r · 03-27-2018, 07:50 AM

Seth,
Sounds like some smart planning going into your trailer.
For unused rivet holes I used a high quality vinyl speckling compound. For larger holes, typically I would cut a patch out of aluminum and rivet it into place.
Jim

badpaddler · 04-23-2018, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRF0st3r

Seth,
Sounds like some smart planning going into your trailer.
For unused rivet holes I used a high quality vinyl speckling compound. For larger holes, typically I would cut a patch out of aluminum and rivet it into place.
Jim

Thanks. Got the wiring done and verified this weekend. Also got the vents put in. How did you make your insulation stay in place? Did you spray glue it in before you did the walls? Did you cut out where the wiring was going or simply lay it over the top? I am thinking that I will need to do segmented end cap first so that the other wall portions lay on top. I also need to replace a fair amount of the exterior lights. Did you use the original style or update to LED's?

JRF0st3r · 04-24-2018, 08:41 AM

I sprayed the inside surface of exterior skin with 3M Adhesive, Generally the wiring was between insulation and exterior skin but where wiring overlapped, I carved a channel to fit. In some situations it was easier to lay wiring on top. Insulation for the curved ends was cut into shapes to fit between ribs. Did I mention that the insulation used is mineral wool? No batts were available to match wall thickness so I bought 3.5" batts and used an electric fish cutting knife to slice in half. That worked very well.

I did not upgrade exterior lights to LED but used parts to match original from VTS where necessary. All of the lenses are new.

Jim

badpaddler · 04-24-2018, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRF0st3r

I sprayed the inside surface of exterior skin with 3M Adhesive, Generally the wiring was between insulation and exterior skin but where wiring overlapped, I carved a channel to fit. In some situations it was easier to lay wiring on top. Insulation for the curved ends was cut into shapes to fit between ribs. Did I mention that the insulation used is mineral wool? No batts were available to match wall thickness so I bought 3.5" batts and used an electric fish cutting knife to slice in half. That worked very well.

I did not upgrade exterior lights to LED but used parts to match original from VTS where necessary. All of the lenses are new.

Jim

Thanks. That is what I was assuming. I have a few spots where I will have to cuts some out. I have actually had the insulation sitting in there for 3 years. I am just going around my trailer, and I have popped off about 8 of the lenses, and they are all brittle and cracked. The bases are not in fantastic shape either. I can replace the lenses and bases for about $10 a piece, but am unsure whether there is a suitable same style LED replacement. I got the water heater and furnace laid out, and the basic layout drawn on the floor. I have a friends father that is a cabinet maker coming over to get an idea of what we are going to need. Then I can start on the end caps....:-/

badpaddler · 05-14-2019, 04:11 PM

Okay. so I FINALLY went all in and threw away the fiberglass endcaps after I did the rear segmented end caps. It was a total cakewalk!!!! I absolutely LOVE em! So the wiring is in, all the sheet metal (minus one small piece in the front endcap) is in. Trimming out the windows with some 1 inch wide strips, and it is time for cabinets!!!!