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Old 01-21-2012, 12:01 PM   #1
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1967 22' Safari
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Jim+Jane's '67 Safari

After years of thinking about Airstream this week we just had to buy a 1967 Safari from a fellow in Rudy, AR and haul it to our place in West Fork, AR.
Now the challenge begins. We are just beginning to verify what works and what doesn't. Body is in fairly good shape with minor dents and scratches. New tires but not sure brakes work and need to figure out 115 V wiring situation. Propane is now only connected to the stove and water heater. Interior could use a better bed arrangement and finishes need to be"adjusted". We have MUCH to learn but specific questions will go to the other forum so as not to bog down this thread.

I've attempted to insert a link to photos through photobucket.
Jim

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Old 01-21-2012, 07:45 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forums!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRF0st3r View Post
After years of thinking about Airstream this week we just had to buy a 1967 Safari from a fellow in Rudy, AR and haul it to our place in West Fork, AR.
Now the challenge begins. We are just beginning to verify what works and what doesn't. Body is in fairly good shape with minor dents and scratches. New tires but not sure brakes work and need to figure out 115 V wiring situation. Propane is now only connected to the stove and water heater. Interior could use a better bed arrangement and finishes need to be"adjusted". We have MUCH to learn but specific questions will go to the other forum so as not to bog down this thread.

I've attempted to insert a link to photos through photobucket.
Jim


Hi Jim, A few things to help you. Click on the pics to make them big.
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:26 PM   #3
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Jim, Welcome to the forums! Happy to have another '67 Safari owner here. Ed
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:04 PM   #4
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Welcome to the forums Jim. The late sixties Airstreams are some of the best. I sure love my 66 TW.

Dan
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:30 PM   #5
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Need rear window aluminum bar

Why should I seek when none exist? Our '67 Safari rear window has the top part of the aluminum bar and frame in place but a PO removed the bar attached to the glass and used sealant and screws to fix a piece of acrylic in its place. Of course the acrylic has cracks and leaks and will not open for ventilation. Does anyone have a junker '66, '67 or '68 from which a front or rear window bar could be salvaged? If I hear no other, sounds like polycarbonate, rivets & sealant is one path forward.
Onward thru the fog.
Jim
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:38 PM   #6
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Keep working on the pictures! Love to see some actual pics of your prize!!
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:04 PM   #7
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as found condition pics

If the pics attached, these are pre-renovation. We are repainting interior white after removing the darn pink paint from aluminum trim. SketchUp is being used to model a revised interior with a slide out double bed and wardrobe in the front, maybe Ikea cabinets in a totally redone kitchen and later rebuild of dinette and refer area. We have waterproof cork/vinyl tile to replace the carpet.
We have resolved the 120 Volt electrical concerns but 12 V looks like a rats nest, although it works. Brakes and connection to truck brakes are to be resolved and slowly addressing leaks, window repair, lighting issues and skin repair.
Concurrently, we have a "shed" designed to house the AS with amenities to make it guest quarters using the trailer or later fully enclosed to serve same purpose without it.
Not bored around here.
Jim
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:22 PM   #8
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OH!!! Pink!!! What's wrong with PINK!!! LOL
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Old 11-19-2012, 03:52 PM   #9
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Guest Cottage first

Restoration of our 1967 Safari has been on the backseat for a few months while we built a guest cottage to shelter it, provide a full size bath, storage and deck. See photo. Yes, the view from the Boston Mountains of Northwest Arkansas is awesome!

We have repaired banana wraps, electrical faults, and started bed construction but MUCH more to do. At least now we will be able to work under shelter.
Jim
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:22 PM   #10
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Rivet Preliminary interior design

We are using SketchUp to design the new interior. A lounge / slide out queen bed would be at the front and a wardrobe closet on the curb side. We are considering putting in a water tank and fill beneath since the original was replaced with a small tank below the dinette seat. Kitchen cabinets would be new, modifying Ikea units. A propane radiant heater might be installed at the base of the tall wardrobe / storage unit next to the kitchen.
Jim
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:00 PM   #11
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12 V rats' nest

After removing existing kitchen and refrigerator / battery cabinets we discovered 8 openings in the wall above the battery, 6 of which still have aluminum wire stubs, some joined together. See photo. Should we be able to tell which wires are which purpose from the OM panel diagram on page 51?

The second pic shows the area beneath the dinette bench with a jumble of 12V wires, water pump and PO's substitute water tank. The system now has no Univolt or charging line from towing vehicle, just a wet cell battery and charger. Should we accept the system as it is since the 12V fans and lights that remain still work? If it would be safer and better to rewire starting with where wires come out of the wall, advice appreciated.

Jim Foster
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:02 AM   #12
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The verdict is in. Subfloor must be replaced. I found that what we were seeing that seemed stabile was a 3/8" plywood covering over a reasonably rotted original subfloor. So far interior partitions and furnishings have been removed (and saved for pattern) back to the bath wall. I can see that the bath fixtures must also come out to do this right and I'm dreading that since they look fragile. Posts from other threads such as Jack's '67 Safari have been most helpful.
Of course there are belly pan gaps to repair, insulation to add and ongoing effort to resolve leaks. Along the way the utilities will be upgraded, details TBD.
My new mantra is "if this were easy, the PO would have done it."
Jim
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:00 AM   #13
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Everywhere you look....

Jim,
Just take your time here! Before you get busy with the sub-floor replacement you should get your leaks under control. As you have to remove the interior anyway to replace the floor you might as well strip out the interior wall and ceiling panels and seal all your panel seams from the inside. Then seal all the exterior seams and any vents or riveted patches/covers. That way all leak issues except the windows and doors will be addressed. As for the rear window there was someone out west that was parting out a '68 Tradewind that may have the parts you need. His name was Wally but that is all I can remember right now. I bought several items from him for my trailer. I will look up his info and see if I can come up with contact info for you. More to follow. Ed
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:29 PM   #14
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Ed,
Our Airstream spent 9 months under sky as we built the shed in which it is now housed when parked so we had opportunities to watch for and address leaks. I know for sure that the rear window remains a problem and two more vent pipes need seals. There could certainly be concealed leaks between inner and outer skins, although I had not anticipated stripping out more of the inner skin than essential for floor replacement. I do value your advice to take it slow, although my spouse is getting impatient. (I'm resisting an obvious joke here.)

Thanks also for helping to find a contact for rear window part! After looking at it closely, the hinge is still there but the glass bar, glazing and some of the operating hardware is gone. Glazing and hardware can still be purchased but I'll need to find or fabricate the glass bar which fits between hinge and glass.
Jim
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