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Old 12-31-2013, 12:47 PM   #1
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1968 22' Safari
Helotes , Texas
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1968 Safari Deadbolt

Can anyone offer a solution for my missing deadbolt?

I have an L100 door lock, and the mounting in the door frame for a deadbolt, the existing L100 cannot be locked from the inside. Need a deadbolt that can lock from inside or Diana will never sleep in the trailer.

From what I've read, the original deadbolt only unlocked from inside

Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:21 PM   #2
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1969 23' Safari
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I am not ANY kind of expert on Airstreams, but I do have a 1969 Safari, and it never had a deadbolt. I am going to take it to a shop to get one installed, before I camp, though.
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:42 PM   #3
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What I used to keep the grand kids from falling out the door was a simple double hung window sash set on the screen door. That will lock them out.
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Old 01-01-2014, 09:33 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by sarasafari View Post
I am not ANY kind of expert on Airstreams, but I do have a 1969 Safari, and it never had a deadbolt. I am going to take it to a shop to get one installed, before I camp, though.

Sara, let me know what lock your shop comes up with, I have been looking thru the normal sources and come up empty
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:38 PM   #5
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We came across a deadbolt that may work at Vintage Trailer Supply - VTS-343C

Will report back if this works....unless someone who has tried this in past can save me the purchase price and tell of their success or lack there of
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Old 01-02-2014, 08:30 AM   #6
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Finally looked at VTS deadbolt on my "big" computer and could see that it mounts on wall next to door, these mobile little screens have limitations, would still like to hear from someone with a door mounted solution

Thanks
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:25 PM   #7
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Dear Diana and Dave,,


The L-100 has its own, built-in locking mechanism. When functioning, it clicks locked when turned in the opposite rotation from open. Rebuild kits are $50 on eBay.


Un-skinning and re-skinning the door is no fun. There is wood reinforcement to remove where the dead-bolt goes.



A dead-bolt will not prevent entry into the trailer. One simply has to push in the little lower “stack” window by the door, reach in and unlock the door. While a keyed on both side dead-bolt would work better for unexpected nightly invasions, it hampers emergency egress, and not recommended by firemen.


Perhaps it's false hope to presume that they can read, but when away, I leave a note to thieves/vandals in the stack window with instructions to break-in this way so as to prevent damage to the door and jamb from prying tools.


An outside keyed dead-bolt's best use is to prevent the suicide door from opening while traveling.
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Old 01-02-2014, 04:07 PM   #8
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Dear Diana and Dave,,


The L-100 has its own, built-in locking mechanism. When functioning, it clicks locked when turned in the opposite rotation from open. Rebuild kits are $50 on eBay.


Un-skinning and re-skinning the door is no fun. There is wood reinforcement to remove where the dead-bolt goes.



A dead-bolt will not prevent entry into the trailer. One simply has to push in the little lower “stack” window by the door, reach in and unlock the door. While a keyed on both side dead-bolt would work better for unexpected nightly invasions, it hampers emergency egress, and not recommended by firemen.


Perhaps it's false hope to presume that they can read, but when away, I leave a note to thieves/vandals in the stack window with instructions to break-in this way so as to prevent damage to the door and jamb from prying tools.


An outside keyed dead-bolt's best use is to prevent the suicide door from opening while traveling.



I had kind of had been figuring it was something like that, I did try turning the "wrong" way from the inside.

We just replaced insulation in the door and replaced the wood reinforcing.

Thank you very much for the guidance, Next we will get a rebuild kit, I did have a time making the door knob work after "carefully" dropping all the insides on the floor when I was removing the knob

Maybe It didn't go back completely correct?
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Old 01-02-2014, 04:42 PM   #9
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I'd guess that there is an exploded view diagram online somewhere. I think that there are you-tubes of it also.

Mine makes me nervous. I disassembled, cleaned and lubed. It works best if the two screws that hold the inside knob escutcheon are not tight. This really bugs me.

It isn't a marvelously engineered lock-set, and the material/workmanship doesn't impress. They are scarce, that's why they're expensive.

I don't know if the rebuild kit has all the parts, someone on this site has more knowledge about the L-100.

Sadly, we're stuck with them.
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Old 04-22-2014, 02:19 PM   #10
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1967 22' Safari
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VTS Deadbolt

Our '67 had a deadbolt. Not sure if it was original or aftermarket, but the PO lost the key and had to break it to get the door open.


I installed the VTS deadbolt in the door. I had to remove most of the rivets from the upper inner panel of the door to access it. I didn't have to remove the outer skin at all. It comes with a 3/8" round rod threaded into the bolt which goes into the door frame. I had to revise the setback a bit to get it to fit the hole in the door, so I made a new rod by cutting the head off of a 3/8" SS bolt.


It works great, better than the replacement handle lock, which I can unlock by jiggling the handle a few times.
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Old 04-22-2014, 05:30 PM   #11
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1966 26' Overlander
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I have been looking for locks too. I have a deep set back 66 Overlander.

My quest has led me to Weiser locks. They make a 5" dead bolt. I think that I am going to try to have some cut the bolt to fit. I don't know what else to do either.
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Old 04-22-2014, 06:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zadiegirl View Post
I have been looking for locks too. I have a deep set back 66 Overlander.

My quest has led me to Weiser locks. They make a 5" dead bolt. I think that I am going to try to have some cut the bolt to fit. I don't know what else to do either.
There is a lock kit available that replaces the L-100.

The nice thing about that kit, is that it has a built in dead bolt.

Andy
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