Can't find a "towing" forum here so I will post here!Here are pics of the weight distribution and anti-sway "stuff" that is on the toungue of my Sovereign. What do I need to buy to tow safely? I was looking at the Reese setup with the Dual Cam sway control, but that wouldn't utilize the two connections on the side of the tounge. I want to tow safely. I do not want to drop a lot of money. I am thinking $400 range not $1200 range.
I have a 1996 Chevy 3/4 ton turbo diesel as a tow vehicle.
Can't find a "towing" forum here so I will post here!Here are pics of the weight distribution and anti-sway "stuff" that is on the toungue of my Sovereign. What do I need to buy to tow safely? I was looking at the Reese setup with the Dual Cam sway control, but that wouldn't utilize the two connections on the side of the tounge. I want to tow safely. I do not want to drop a lot of money. I am thinking $400 range not $1200 range.
I have a 1996 Chevy 3/4 ton turbo diesel as a tow vehicle.
Thanks in advance for replies.
pics of stuff:
Since your photos didn't show-up in your post, I will make the assumption that the original towing setup on your '73 Sovereign was likely either Reese or Easy-Lift as they were among the more popular choices of that era. While it is possible to buy just the parts necessary to complete the setup, it may be more cost-effective in the long-run to purchase a fully-matched modern system. For the budget-minded alternatives, my suggestion would be to consider either the Reese Strait-Line Hitch with Dual Cam Sway Control, or the Equal-I-zer Hitch. Both of these hitch systems are backed by firms with good reputations within the community and include built-in sway control that eliminates the headaches of constantly adjusting the friction sway control devices.
One thing to keep in mind, particularly with the Reese Strait-Line Hitch, is that it is necessary to closely match the weight rating of the weight distribution bars to the acutual gross (loaded) weight of the coach's hitch -- this is particularly true if you happen to be towing with a stiffly sprung 3/4-ton or one-ton tow vehicle. For instance, when I tow with my K2500 Suburban, my Minuet 6.0 Metre (575 pound gross hitch weight) I utilize 350 pound weight distribution bars; with the Overlander (775 pound gross hitch weight) I utilize 750 or 800 pound weight distribution bars.
Good luck with your hitch setup!
Kevin
PS: With your photos now posted, I believe that I can with some certainty identify your components as being either Reese or Draw-Tite (Draw-Tite components tend to be directly compatible with Reese systems in my experience) weight distributing components with the mounting fixture for a friction sway control. I would still suggest either of the paths that I mentioned above as the towing experience is far less stressful with a hitch that includes built-in sway control. With either of the above weight distribution hitches above, the fixture for the friction sway control could be abandoned or removed (I just abandoned the one on my Minuet, but plan to remove it when I prepare the hitch for new paint).
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Kevin D. Allen WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359 AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
Last edited by overlander64; 06-13-2005 at 08:43 AM.
Sorry about the pics not working! Can anyone see my pics?
The problem was on my end -- the graphics card on my computer was on its way out -- after reloading the driver, your photos displayed, and I posted a PS at the bottom of my post. Sorry about the confusion!
Kevin
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Kevin D. Allen WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359 AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
I don't see the left & right 'Spring Bars' in you photos, nor the friction anti sway controller that would attach to the 'bulb' below the right LPG tank and then to the hitch.
__________________ NORM #3305
"... there is nothing you can't fix yourself ...
... if you're handy ...
... with a check book! ..."
Can't find a "towing" forum here so I will post here!Here are pics of the weight distribution and anti-sway "stuff" that is on the toungue of my Sovereign. What do I need to buy to tow safely?... I am thinking $400 range not $1200 range.
Below is a pic of a Reese dual cam on the front of a '78 Sovereign.
Note that the bottom cylinder support on mine is different than yours. Your ring support for the tanks could be easily removed, but it would probably require a welder to mount the tanks such that the trailing arm links could be mounted properly.
Similar setups are usually available used for less than a couple of hundred bucks - see http://www.hitchtrader.com/ "For Sale Adds" - there are usually one or two on e-bay also - I suspect that UPS shipping would be about $150.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
What it looks like, is a similar setup to the ones on my Argosy, and Overlander. Mine is an Eaz-Lift WD system, with the round bar weight distribution bars, and a Reese friction-type sway control. You will need the pieces that go on the hitch on your tow vehicle, the assembly is called a "head". 2 WD round bars, preferably 1,000 lb. cap. for the weight of the Sovereign, and the friction sway controller. Note that the piece that goes into your tow vehicle, or "head" will need a small ball similar to the one on the side of the trailer tongue, although slightly smaller, for the sway control to mount to. This also seems to be the absolute most inexpensive WD setup I have found. If you shop carefully, you should be able to stay within your budget, although just barely. Just be aware, if you go down this road, you are stuck with it, and you will need to purchase the entire setup in a different manufacturer if you ever want to upgrade.
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Terry You repair things with tools. You fix things with a hammer.
AIR#2611
To tow safely I would follow Andy's advice on hitch setup.He also wrote an excellent article in the winter issue of Airstream Life.I believe you can get the Reese dual cam for $500 online.
what is a good asking price for the 31 ft. international airstream in good working condition annd good shape ?
A good place to start when trying to establish a value for a given coach is R J Dial's website Price vs. Condition. In addition, since axle replacement is a fairly common issue with the Vintage coaches, an article on Inland RV's website, The Henschen Axle, will assist in inspecting/determining the condition of the axles on the coach.
Good luck with your project!
Kevin
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Kevin D. Allen WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359 AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
Although it is a complicated environment, and things sometimes are not what they seem, e-bay is a useful resource for tracking what coaches are actually selling for.
Compared to other online or printed advertisements, the pictures most sellers include give a better idea of equipment and condition.
One of the most useful aspects of looking at the completed auctions is that it is a guide to what a trailer is NOT worth. By that I mean for example if a coach has been listed at say, $3000 and has gotten zero bids, or has been listed a couple of times with reserve and has not topped out over $1700, it is fair to conclude it is NOT worth $3000. It is only human nature to think that our treasured personal property is highly in demand by lunatic collectors or at a minimum is at least worth what we have in it. Auction results are the best antidote for that kind of thinking.
Because of shill bidding and the jokesters who bid without intending to buy, (and the poor descriptions of some items which can suppress bidding) determining what a coach IS worth from auction results is much less certain.
I have a 1970 31 Ft Sovereign and I pull it with a 2000 Silverado with a 4.8L V-8. I use a sway control hitch like the one you referenced and I don't have any problems pulling the AS. My hitch cost $250.00 a few years ago. Just ensure you follow all instructions with the hitch and be sure your trailer is level with the hitch on the vehicle. Cinch it down tightly. Good Luck.