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08-26-2008, 09:10 AM
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#1
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Airstreamer since 1958
1973 31' Sovereign
Greencastle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 34
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New Owner
Bought a '72 Sovereign a few months ago. Center bath, rear twin beds. All original interior in very good shape. Seems to be missing a water pump. Anyone know where it should be?
I thought I had the key to the water input but that seems to have disappeared. Any idea if this is something I could remove and take to a locksmith to have a key made?
We're parking it for living space while we build a house, so I don't want to invest too much time in it right now.
Thanks!
Doug
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08-26-2008, 09:51 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
2000 25' Excella
Kingston
, Tennessee
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 905
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Hi Doug and Welcome to the forums. I dont know anything about water pumps but you have come to the right place for answers. I will go ahead and be the first ask:"Do you have any pictures?"
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08-26-2008, 10:05 AM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member
1975 31' Sovereign
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 494
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Doug the key you are missing is common. There may have been several different ones but they are easily aquired. Someone here on the forum will help you with that. Search the forum search function and you will find much on the subject. I would send you mine if I knew where I put it. My keyway cylinder is missing. So i had no need for the key. But I have no idea where it is.
__________________
__________________________
____ d'drummer ____
...aahh..rumm..pu..tum..tummm...
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08-26-2008, 10:23 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1976 31' Sovereign
Currently Looking...
Chandler
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,770
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In my 76 Sovereign the water pump sits right inside the sliding door in the cabinet to your left as you enter. Seems like a strange place since it sits right on top of the old Univolt. Replaced the Univolt with an Intellipower, but the water pump is still in there. Water pumps are generally very close to the water fill door on your trailer. Not to be confused with the shore water hook-up at the back where you connect the hose.
__________________
Judy At Home in Oklahoma
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08-27-2008, 07:44 AM
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#5
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Airstreamer since 1958
1973 31' Sovereign
Greencastle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 34
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Yep, it's really a '73
My fingers need a brain-check, not just a spell check. My A/S is a '73, not a '72.
Thanks for the warm welcome. I'm slowly figuring out what's what around here, nice to see the natives are friendly. Yes, I have a few pix, will try to upload one here.
When I get over there today I'll take a picture of the area missing the pump. If anyone has a pic of the area with a pump, I'd love to see it.
I've got a good RV store just down the road at Stateline, so we'll see what they charge for a new pump and then consider our options.
DD, thanks for the reassurance on the water inlet key. I'll spend some time searching. I figured there's got to be an easier way than paying a locksmith to come out, or pulling the whole thing off and taking it in.
Juel, your post was particularly appreciated for the detail on the pump location, because that's what I'd suspected. Seems counter-intuitive to me to put the power and water in the same cabinet, but there we are. I discovered that the water fill inlet isn't connect to the tank either. The hose has been removed from the inside of the inlet and is lying loose on the floor of the cabinet. Oh, we're going to have fun here!
Thanks again, all. Glad to be here.
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08-28-2008, 06:22 AM
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#6
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Airstreamer since 1958
1973 31' Sovereign
Greencastle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 34
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Well, I'm a real member of the club now...
I went poking around in the back of the trailer yesterday and discovered that it's not as solid as I'd thought. I found two places the plywood has deteriorated from moisture. One is about two inches wide by eight inches long, under the back of the curbside twin bed. The other is about four inches in diameter and under the center "night stand". Other areas show signs of exposure to water, but those are the only two that have really rotted through. I see someone's applied a large bead of silicone across the back bumper to try to stem the flood. I'm not sure it worked. I'll do some poking around the forums here to see what works to seal this joint more effectively. While these holes don't bode well, they're not bad enough to warrant extreme measures. If I can keep them dry they don't seem to be that bad. Careful inspection around the black water tank and toilet doesn't show any deterioration there. So far.
I also went poking under the oven to see if I could figure out the missing water pump issues. I didn't have enough light/time to satisfy myself that I understood everything I was looking at, but I did identify a few things. There seems to be a very complicated series of valves, but I couldn't quite figure out what they're all for. Some of the space I can't get a looksee at, so I poked my digital camera under there and took some images to try to figure everythign out. I'll take another look today.
Doug
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09-03-2008, 06:26 AM
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#7
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Airstreamer since 1958
1973 31' Sovereign
Greencastle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 34
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Pic worth a thousand words.
I realized today that I think I posted this info in the wrong sub-category/forum here... Hope this gets some response.
Well, here's the space where the water pump used to go.
I discovered a new leak (of course) last night. The water fill port on the outside is not connected to the water tank. The rain runs down the side of the trailer, behind the flap and into the trailer. Looks like it's done some damage but not terminal. If I can't open that flap, I'll get some sealant on it and make sure the leak stops. Never a dull moment.
I've also found the key to the water fill door, but it doesn't go into the lock. It's as though something inside was preventing entry. I've come to the conclusion that this was intentional on someone's part. They wanted to close off access to that port. The fill pipe is disconnected on the inside, the elbow that was in that line is gone. I'm suspicious that this won't be an easy deal...
Busted water tank?
So my prime question right now from this pic is this: If I do replace the water pump, where would it go? There doesn't seem to be any room for it.
Checked the back floor after yesterday's rain and it's dry back there. I doubt it would remain so if we got driving rain from that angle, but we at least survived this storm...
I like the solution of putting some sort of "L" shaped aluminum panel back there and directing the water away from the floor edge. Sure is a strange design! I'm no engineer, but even I'd spot that as a design problem, I think.
Thanks for any thoughts or advice on the water pump placement.
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09-03-2008, 06:41 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickbug
I realized today that I think I posted this info in the wrong sub-category/forum here... Hope this gets some response.
Well, here's the space where the water pump used to go.
I discovered a new leak (of course) last night. The water fill port on the outside is not connected to the water tank. The rain runs down the side of the trailer, behind the flap and into the trailer. Looks like it's done some damage but not terminal. If I can't open that flap, I'll get some sealant on it and make sure the leak stops. Never a dull moment.
I've also found the key to the water fill door, but it doesn't go into the lock. It's as though something inside was preventing entry. I've come to the conclusion that this was intentional on someone's part. They wanted to close off access to that port. The fill pipe is disconnected on the inside, the elbow that was in that line is gone. I'm suspicious that this won't be an easy deal...
Busted water tank?
So my prime question right now from this pic is this: If I do replace the water pump, where would it go? There doesn't seem to be any room for it.
Checked the back floor after yesterday's rain and it's dry back there. I doubt it would remain so if we got driving rain from that angle, but we at least survived this storm...
I like the solution of putting some sort of "L" shaped aluminum panel back there and directing the water away from the floor edge. Sure is a strange design! I'm no engineer, but even I'd spot that as a design problem, I think.
Thanks for any thoughts or advice on the water pump placement.
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Welcome to Airstreaming and the surprises a used coach offers.
A service manual is available.
That would help you with many of the why's and where fors.
It covers all the systems, diagrams, schematics, and repairs, in a fair amount of detail.
First time you use it, it will save you some bucks.
It will also help you decided if something is original, or not.
The parts breakdown, has part numbers, that are obsolete.
But if you use those part numbers when you order parts, a dealer who has the same manual, will know exactly what you want.
The water pump should go near the univolt. Your photo shows the input hose from the water tank. The spring is to keep the intake hose from collapsing when the pump is running.
The original pumps were mad by Peters and Russel, now known as Jabsco.
The original pumps were not cheap, as they were designed to operate 25 years or so, with out any normal repairs. Cheaper pumps are available, but usually the performance is less too.
You can get at the water fill, but you will need to remove some things that are in the way.
The valves below the floor in that area, are drain valves.
As a suggestion, check all the exterior gaskets. If they are hard and cracked, they will leak. Include in that gasket check list, the sewer vent pipe gaskets, since they only last 5 to 6 years or so. They are within the oval polished metal covers on the roof. Your trailer should have at least two vent pipe covers. Keeping the water out, is a must.
An all systems check is wise as well. LPG pressure and leaks, reefer burner and orifice, furnace bench take apart inspection, water heater burner and orifice, brakes, bearings, axle condition, and the dreaded rear end separation. Leaky fixed windows, water filter, AC operation, and battery condition.
Check the Zip Dee awning for rusty shafts, and especially the stitching.
There are solar gray rockguards available, to protect the front windows during travel, as well as offering a shaded cover for the front window, if you wish to have it open in light rain.
Andy
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09-03-2008, 06:55 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2006 30' Classic S/O
Currently Looking...
Mohrsville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,313
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Stickbug,
Welcome to the forums and I am glad to see another Keystone stater here.
You may be able to get to and remove the lock on the potable water fill door from the inside of the trailer. On most of them it is just a friction clip which holds them in place. If you are only going to use the trailer while you are building a permanent house, you may not need the water pump and potable water tank. The outside hookup to city water should be sufficient for your needs. But if you want to start camoping, then the self containe potable water system becomes necessary.
As for your rotten floor sections, if they aren't too massive, you may have some luck with Rot Doctor or Minwax Wood Hardener. I know the Minwax product is available at Home Depot.
Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions / problems.
__________________
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
2006 30' Classic W Slide & Limited Package Katarina
2006 GMC 2500 HD 6.6 Turbo Diesel Crew Cab 8' Bed
TAC PA-3
S/OS#042
AIR #14487
NQ3U (was KB3UOM)
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09-03-2008, 07:57 AM
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#10
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Airstreamer since 1958
1973 31' Sovereign
Greencastle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 34
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Hey Carl,
I go past your area all the time. I have family in NJ and we travel up there frequently.
I've peered up into the spot where the filler is. It looks like the back of the housing covers the back of the lock. If I can't get a key into the lock and open it, I will have to pull the whole thing out, I think. I'll look at it again today though.
The darn thing is that I seem to remember the PO opened that flap up when we were going over it before the sale. Now I can't get my key in. Argh.
If I had a reliable source of potable water, I'd probably skip this, as you suggest. Unfortunately, the water supply will be interrupted for some time so we're looking at being self contained.
Off to the salt mines!
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09-03-2008, 08:00 AM
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#11
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Airstreamer since 1958
1973 31' Sovereign
Greencastle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 34
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Andy,
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to get up on the roof of the unit later today or tomorrow and see how things look. I'm working my way through the systems. Water is the first priority right now. If I can't get that flap to work I'll figure out something else, but I'd really like to have that capability.
I suspect that I'll be ordering one of those service manuals soon.
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