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Old 03-29-2011, 12:37 PM   #1
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1973 31' Sovereign
West Monroe , Louisiana
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1973 31ft Sovereign Twin beds Rear bath West Monroe, LA

I have a question for you guys & gals. I've got a 31ft 73 Sovereign. I have to replace my Univolt. It doesn't look to easy. Any suggestions on how to get in there??
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Old 03-29-2011, 12:57 PM   #2
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I take it you have a rear bath model, Barender. The Univolt is well-hidden in a litle hole in the bottom right corner of the curbside closet, just ahead of the bath.
  1. Empty the closet, at least the stuff on hangars, it gets annoying in your face.
  2. Switch circuit breakers to "off"
  3. Disconnect the 12V battery if you have one
  4. Remove the front panel of the UV
  5. Remove all the wires, making copious notes and taking photos of each item before removing (because for sure you on someone else will have questions).
  6. Remove the two screws that fasten the front of the UV to it's wood pedestal.(leave the shock mount stuff alone for now)
  7. Disconnect the 120V "Romex" in the part below the faceplate
  8. Pull it out towards you. The rear is not fastened tightly, there are pieces that the rear part of the UV slide under.
  9. IIRC (it's been a long time) there is one or two more wires at the rear to remove.
  10. Have a cold one.

Don't throw the UV away for two reasons: there is something on it called the "shunt", you may want this later for reasons of making your Control Center work properly. Also, it's can make a nifty 12V bench supply. Or a boat anchor, some say
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:05 PM   #3
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Thank you Aage! This seems really difficult since I purchased a replacement, "used" and it had bolts on the backside also. Are you saying that these two bolts will not have to be removed prior to pulling the Univolt out?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage View Post
I take it you have a rear bath model, Barender. The Univolt is well-hidden in a litle hole in the bottom right corner of the curbside closet, just ahead of the bath.
  1. Empty the closet, at least the stuff on hangars, it gets annoying in your face.
  2. Switch circuit breakers to "off"
  3. Disconnect the 12V battery if you have one
  4. Remove the front panel of the UV
  5. Remove all the wires, making copious notes and taking photos of each item before removing (because for sure you on someone else will have questions).
  6. Remove the two screws that fasten the front of the UV to it's wood pedestal.(leave the shock mount stuff alone for now)
  7. Disconnect the 120V "Romex" in the part below the faceplate
  8. Pull it out towards you. The rear is not fastened tightly, there are pieces that the rear part of the UV slide under.
  9. IIRC (it's been a long time) there is one or two more wires at the rear to remove.
  10. Have a cold one.

Don't throw the UV away for two reasons: there is something on it call the "shunt", you may want this later rof reasons of making your Control Center work properly. Also, it's can make a nifty 12V bench supply. Or a boat anchor, some say
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barender View Post
Thank you Aage! This seems really difficult since I purchased a replacement, "used" and it had bolts on the backside also. Are you saying that these two bolts will not have to be removed prior to pulling the Univolt out?
Is it another Univolt (blue one) that you purchased? Does it too have the fuse panel built into it?

And yes, the back part of the Univolt you are taking out slides into a retainer. Once you get the old one out, you will see what I'm talking about. Your new used one, well, you'll have to see. You will be able to enlarge the hole once you have the old Univolt out, if you want or need to...

You'll need a flashlight, of course. It's dark, dusty, and cobwebby back there. You are looking at the back of the bathtub.

Take some paper labels, and copy the text from each post you remove a wire from and stick it on each wire, so as to not drive yourself crazy trying to find where each of them came from.

In the photo I have posted, there is a rectangular brown piece that has two smaller wires plugged into it. That assembly is the shunt that allows you to connect to the batter meter on the Master Control panel that in the locker above the range. Remove that part carefully, and label it's wires too. You will want to connect it later to your new Univolt.

Let us know how you make out.
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:35 AM   #5
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Thanks again and yes, this is exactly what my Univolt looks like. I really need to replace it soon and now I have the confidence to do it. I am going to try to do it on Sunday. I am also working on my A/C, my compressor is not kicking on and I can not seem to get my fridge to turn on either, "electric" I have not tried running it off gas. This Trailer was well taken care of, but not maintained. Any advise on those two issues?
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Old 03-31-2011, 01:02 PM   #6
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barender,

Are you considering replacing the old UV (UniVolt) with the same thing; another UV? If you are, I would say that IMO, that is a colossal waste of time.

Secondly, before you consider doing any work on your AC unit, please be sure that you have a sufficiently heavy-duty electrical feed so that enough current is supplied to it. If such is not the case, that could explain why it won't run properly.

I leave the refer questions to someone that knows more about them than I do.
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Old 04-01-2011, 12:09 PM   #7
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Aage,

I would prefer replacing the UV a newer version, but I'm not sure that I could afford to do that at this time. I am trying desperately to get in this trailer and I have had almost too much to fix already. Do you know where I could shop for a new UV?

Where can I test the A/C Unit for voltage?

THANK YOU btw.


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barender,

Are you considering replacing the old UV (UniVolt) with the same thing; another UV? If you are, I would say that IMO, that is a colossal waste of time.

Secondly, before you consider doing any work on your AC unit, please be sure that you have a sufficiently heavy-duty electrical feed so that enough current is supplied to it. If such is not the case, that could explain why it won't run properly.

I leave the refer questions to someone that knows more about them than I do.
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Old 04-01-2011, 12:44 PM   #8
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1973 31' Sovereign
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1973 31ft Soveriegn Twin beds Rear bath West Monroe, LA

Hello out there, I am starting a overhaul of my 31ft Airstream. It was only used on the road for 6 years and sat under a shed for the rest of its years until one year ago when someone I know found it. I purchased from him two months ago with intentions of living in it. I have ran into several issues. It has leaks from the roof, faucets, under the tub, on top of the water heater and under the kitchen sink. I unfortunately discovered that the size copper that was used in my trailer is now obsolete. I am keeping my head up though. I have received a great deal of support from "airforum" members. Thanks guys!

I am now trying to get the A/C compressor to kick on, The refrigerator to work on electric " I have not tried the gas", and I am fixing the roof leaks. I fixed the copper leaks with some quick connections from a local plumbing supply place. They were not the correct sizes, but I do think it will hold fine.
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Old 04-01-2011, 01:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barender View Post
Aage,

I would prefer replacing the UV a newer version, but I'm not sure that I could afford to do that at this time. I am trying desperately to get in this trailer and I have had almost too much to fix already. Do you know where I could shop for a new UV?
Well, first of all, what was your reason for taking out the new one? I ask this because unless it is completely dead, there probably isn't much point putting another of the same in there.

Typically, the Univolts all hum, if that's a reason. If there is not output on the one in there now, get that flashlight out again, and check the fuses. Check that they are good, and also that the fuse holders are clean and making good contact.

Let us know how you make out with that?

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Originally Posted by barender View Post
Where can I test the A/C Unit for voltage?

THANK YOU btw.
Well, why don't you describe to us how you are getting electricity to it right now? The thing is, if you have a long run to your source and/or your extension cord is too light-weight, or if the source isn't giving you at least 20 amps, it may not run.

You need to have a 20 amp circuit for an A/C.
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Old 04-05-2011, 02:50 PM   #10
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I did check all the fuses and contacts. I am not getting any power to my outside trailer lights or my ceiling lights. The battery is new. To check the system I hooked it up to jumper cables and a truck. Everything worked while it was plugged up. I would love to get this one working again. Any suggestions.

PS: I tried turning my refrigerator on electric and I can not get anything to happen.
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