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03-05-2010, 11:36 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
N/A moving
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 21
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1973 31' Sovereign Remodel
I will be posting photos beginning my first journey in to remodelling my 1973 31' Sovereign I just purchased. I will be doing a full remodel including moving the rear bath, new plumbing, new electrical....maybe even solar. I am going to start with removal of all interior items I will post shortly some photos of its current state, and ask some questions of the experts out there. I will post the current state of items that are of concern and look forward to the input and feedback...and since this is a great community, the HELP!!
Away we go!!!
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03-05-2010, 12:58 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kikileg
I will be posting photos beginning my first journey in to remodelling my 1973 31' Sovereign I just purchased. I will be doing a full remodel including moving the rear bath, new plumbing, new electrical....maybe even solar. I am going to start with removal of all interior items I will post shortly some photos of its current state, and ask some questions of the experts out there. I will post the current state of items that are of concern and look forward to the input and feedback...and since this is a great community, the HELP!!
Away we go!!!
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Unless the trailer is inside, the first thing you want to do is "weatherproof" it.
Andy
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03-05-2010, 01:24 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1958 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Unless the trailer is inside, the first thing you want to do is "weatherproof" it.
Andy
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Andy is right, all of the caulking and window/door seals need replacing unless the PO was on top of all of this. Usually they aren't.
__________________
1958 Overlander
2011 Wolf Creek 850N TC
2011 Ford F-250 Crewcab (6.2L), 3.73RE
WBCCI #5661/AIR #5661/TAC # AZ-6
4CU 1st VP
My '58 Overlander Restoration and Travel Blog:
https://mellomikesairstreams.blogspot.com/
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03-06-2010, 12:31 AM
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#4
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Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
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kikileg,
Good luck with your project. I'm always impressed when a new owner starts right off by gutting his (or her) trailer and taking it down to the bones right off the bat.
Is your new one that bad that you can't live with it for a while to see how it feels once you're used to it?
Or is it just that you couldn't find the layout you wanted in the trailers available in your area, and so you are determined to make it yourself?
Either way, if it's convenient for you, it would be nice to see pictures now before you do anything, just so we have a benchmark to go by.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
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03-06-2010, 05:26 AM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
N/A moving
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 21
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Thanks Mike and Andy
Quote:
Originally Posted by mello mike
Andy is right, all of the caulking and window/door seals need replacing unless the PO was on top of all of this. Usually they aren't.
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Can you recommend the caulking to use and where to buy the window supplies?
You are right a couple of window show signs of water penetration..so I will do that first...
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03-06-2010, 05:28 AM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
N/A moving
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 21
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I will be putting up pictures
And I am changing all of it because I intend to take a year to simplify my life and live in it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
kikileg,
Good luck with your project. I'm always impressed when a new owner starts right off by gutting his (or her) trailer and taking it down to the bones right off the bat.
Is your new one that bad that you can't live with it for a while to see how it feels once you're used to it?
Or is it just that you couldn't find the layout you wanted in the trailers available in your area, and so you are determined to make it yourself?
Either way, if it's convenient for you, it would be nice to see pictures now before you do anything, just so we have a benchmark to go by.
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03-06-2010, 12:30 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1958 26' Overlander
Mesa
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,742
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Kikileg,
Don't use silicone for caulking on an Airstream. Vulkem (its gray in color) is what you should use and you can order that from Inland RV, Vintage Trailer Supply, or Out of Doors Mart. The rubber window seals can also be ordered from these three places. Just tell them what kind of trailer you have and how much (in feet) you'll need.
Mike
__________________
1958 Overlander
2011 Wolf Creek 850N TC
2011 Ford F-250 Crewcab (6.2L), 3.73RE
WBCCI #5661/AIR #5661/TAC # AZ-6
4CU 1st VP
My '58 Overlander Restoration and Travel Blog:
https://mellomikesairstreams.blogspot.com/
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03-06-2010, 03:28 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kikileg
Can you recommend the caulking to use and where to buy the window supplies?
You are right a couple of window show signs of water penetration..so I will do that first...
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The original window and door gaskets have been changed to a superior type, that offers a much better seal.
Also, check out the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets. They only last 2 to 3 years.
The access compartment gaskets should also be checked.
The 2 sealers to use is Vulkem for larger seams, and Par Bond for small seams. Vulkem can be used to seal the glass to metal area of the windows, as that gray gasket may also be leaking, especially around the wing windows, the stack windows and the vista view windows.
You should also check out the suspension system, to assure that the rubber rods are still serviceable. There is an article on how to do that in the Airstream Central section of this Forums.
You should also check the rear end for separation, which is somewhat common to the older trailers.
Once the trailer is waterproofed, then your attention can be on the work you wish to do on it, without fear of water damage.
Welcome to Airstreaming, and it's world of questions and answers.
Andy
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03-06-2010, 05:00 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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I am in the process of upgrading my '74 Argosy 26. If you are going to redo all of the plumbing, I would recommend PEX tubing for the fresh water lines. I used "FLAIR IT" fittings. No special tools required. Bought the fittings at, www.iPlumb.TV.com and the PEX tubing, Blue and Red at a place called Menards. I started a blog a while back and have posted a few pics.
GOOD LUCK ON YOUR PROJECT1
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03-06-2010, 05:06 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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The web site address in the previous post is not correct. It is www.iplumb.tv . No ."com"
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03-07-2010, 12:50 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
N/A moving
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 21
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Windows and Exterior
Ok so I have photos of the windows ....
Anything come to mind....what should I look for...
Also, what about vent covers etc....
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03-07-2010, 12:56 PM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
N/A moving
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 21
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Exterior shots, What to do about the dent??
Here are some exterior shots...
How do I repair dents....especially the large one at the rear?
And what is the carbon steel bracket for on the underside near the front?
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03-07-2010, 01:01 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kikileg
Ok so I have photos of the windows ....
Anything come to mind....what should I look for...
Also, what about vent covers etc....
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The area on top and sides of each window need to possibly be cleaned up, and then resealed.
The area between the glass and sash (metal frame) on all the fixed windows, wing window, vista view and stacks, should all be cleaned and resealed with Vulkem sealer.
Cover the old gray gasket completely with the sealer.
That will eliminate all the leaks from the window framing.
Next, would be the gaskets on the back side of each opening window. Lastly, the access door, entrance door and sewer vent pipe cover gaskets, should be replaced, if not already done so.
Make sure you check the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets, as they only last 2 to 3 years. Removing one of the covers, will answer your questions.
Andy
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03-07-2010, 01:08 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kikileg
Here are some exterior shots...
How do I repair dents....especially the large one at the rear?
And what is the carbon steel bracket for on the underside near the front?
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The front underside bracket, is a spare tire carrier.
The only real hope for that double dent, is replacement.
Otherwise, repair attempts will never make the stretched aluminum marks disappear.
Andy
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03-07-2010, 01:28 PM
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#15
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
N/A moving
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 21
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Double Dent
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
The front underside bracket, is a spare tire carrier.
The only real hope for that double dent, is replacement.
Otherwise, repair attempts will never make the stretched aluminum marks disappear.
Andy
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Thanks Andy..is the replacement for that area a piece that can be purchased?
Or could you advise how to fix? Idea on approx cost?
Also would you provide your link for material for the windows...so I can order tomorrow..
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03-07-2010, 01:55 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kikileg
Thanks Andy..is the replacement for that area a piece that can be purchased?
Or could you advise how to fix? Idea on approx cost?
Also would you provide your link for material for the windows...so I can order tomorrow..
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Segments cost several hundreds of dollars, each.
We, as a vendor, are not allowed to post prices on things we sell.
Click on the red part of our signature line. That gives you the information you asked for, on how to contact us.
Andy.
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03-07-2010, 02:05 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2008 27' International FB
Venice
, Florida
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
The area on top and sides of each window need to possibly be cleaned up, and then resealed.
The area between the glass and sash (metal frame) on all the fixed windows, wing window, vista view and stacks, should all be cleaned and resealed with Vulkem sealer.
Cover the old gray gasket completely with the sealer.
That will eliminate all the leaks from the window framing.
Next, would be the gaskets on the back side of each opening window. Lastly, the access door, entrance door and sewer vent pipe cover gaskets, should be replaced, if not already done so.
Make sure you check the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets, as they only last 2 to 3 years. Removing one of the covers, will answer your questions.
Andy
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Question for Andy. The gasket between the glass and the metal frame, is that replaceable and where can I get it?
I have '85 Sovereign, the rear window has a small leak into the window well which does not have drain holes. Do you know why no drain holes?
Your comments may help several of us following the thread.
__________________
Bill and Janice, We're lovin' it! (Airstreaming)
Airdreamers
WBCCI #8880
AIR #41310
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03-07-2010, 02:32 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airdreamers
Question for Andy. The gasket between the glass and the metal frame, is that replaceable and where can I get it?
I have '85 Sovereign, the rear window has a small leak into the window well which does not have drain holes. Do you know why no drain holes?
Your comments may help several of us following the thread.
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Bill.
That between the window gasket is not available from Airstream, even though they make the windows.
Your Airstream is 25 years old. I would suppect that all the window gaskets have out lived their useful life and should be replaced.
Check the sewer vent pipe cover gaskets, as they only last 2 to 3 years.
Also check the access door and entrance door gaskets. They too, probably have seen their day.
Weep hole drains are not installed in the trailer windows, since they, by design, don't leak.
However, the gasket can age out, causing leaks.
Front and rear window leaks are more common to leaks in the clearance lights. They should be removed, cleaned up and resealed. Or, you can remove them and up grade to LED clearance lights which are far superior.
Adding drain holes in the bottom of the opening trailer window frames, is a bad idea.
It's far better to locate the reason for the collection of water, and correct it.
Anyd
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03-10-2010, 01:02 PM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
N/A moving
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 21
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Interior Dimensions of the 31' Sovereign
Does anyone know where to find inside dimensions for the 31' Sovereign?
Thanks!
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03-10-2010, 01:42 PM
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#20
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kikileg
Does anyone know where to find inside dimensions for the 31' Sovereign?
Thanks!
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There are dozen of interior dimensions.
Which dimensions are you "exactly" looking for?
Andy
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