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Old 08-17-2013, 05:22 PM   #621
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We had thought about putting a 12 volt outlet in the bathroom for a 12 VDC hair dryer, but decided not too.
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:33 PM   #622
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Did a few things today.


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Replaced the screen door. We had bought one from someone that was parting out his trailer after a tree fell on it last Spring, and finally got around to cleaning it up and installing it. Looks much nicer than the one we had, which was not only really dirty and pitted, but also had a check taken out of it by a PO to clear the door knob they installed.


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Painted and installed the inside door trim. Painted it the same hammered aluminum color we used on the kitchen window.


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Fixed the hinge on the old battery box cover so it closes properly now. There was about a 3/8" gap at the top before.


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Cut a hole in the side of the trailer and added a second hatch. Bought it on E-bay. It's the exact same size as the original side hatch.


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Now, we have much better access to the outside storage compartment that's under the bed. I think I'll build a false floor to cover and protect the pex pipes.

Chris
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Old 08-18-2013, 01:39 PM   #623
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Chris, do you have any pictures of the stove vent from the outside with the cover removed, I am adding one to my GT and it would be nice to see an original install. My original stove vent location is being re-tasked as a bath vent and the pass through had been previously removed, but the outside cover remained. I found another outside cover for the stove so that both vents will match.
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:23 PM   #624
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Hi Kip

No, I do not have a picture of the vent with the outside cover removed. The original vent, if memory serves, was just a vent pipe cut to the contour of the shell stuck up in the wall/ceiling. I don't even think it was vulkumed in place, because I do remember simply pulling it out of the wall during our demo.

When I installed the new vent pipe, after cutting the opening in the shell, I slid the vent pipe through the opening, and holding it level, I drew a line on the pipe where it exited the shell. I added about 3/4" to that line to make the cut. I cut fingers in the end of the pipe so I could rivet it to the shell. Lastly, I vulkumed the heck out of it before installing the cover. I took a couple of pictures of the opening inside the cover. Hopefully, they will give you a visual reference on how I installed the vent pipe. Not pretty, but it doesn't leak!

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Chris
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:21 AM   #625
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:22 PM   #626
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Kip you going to start making those scoop vents?

Perry
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:48 PM   #627
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stove vent

My 73 has a 5 1/2" hole with a rubber collar that surrounds the 5 1/2" vent pipe as it passes through the hole, coming out of the factory vent hood. had some pics, but they were lost in a cloud somewhere between my phone and my gmail acct. looks pretty straight forward.

I wonder if there is a HVAC piece with a collar (aluminum of course) that would fit? Something like the fingers Chris talks about.

mike
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Old 08-19-2013, 04:53 PM   #628
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The problem with the premade starter duct pipes with the fingers is that the shell of the trailer is curved, not flat. That's why I made my own. The premade one I bought just wasn't going to work.

Chris
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Old 08-19-2013, 06:17 PM   #629
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Stove Vent pipe

That danged curve again! I think how AS compensated was with the rubber collar. Mine was kind of glued to the outside in pieces, but it may have curved to the profile of the trailer. I think your solution is more dependable and water resistant.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:45 AM   #630
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I compounded the curved shell problem by wanting the vent pipe to exit horizontally. The original vent exited the shell at an upward angle, which put it much closer to 90 degrees in relation to the shell.

Chris
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:30 PM   #631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Kip you going to start making those scoop vents?

Perry
I was until I found a couple of spares from donor trailers
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:17 PM   #632
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I think I want to get rid of my leaky flap door and put in a scoop type vent.

Perry
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:03 PM   #633
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I realized that I never posted pictures of the modifications I made to the inside of the range hood.


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Here's the inside without the fan. The original rectangular opening out the back has been sealed, and the 4" vent going up into the cabinet is installed and sealed with foil tape. It's a starter duct, and the fingers are screwed to the range hood.

I installed the original 8" fan, but when it was running, not only was it noisy, but we were also getting a lot of backwash (air blowing own back through the fan blades). I figured it was because only part of the fan was directly below the duct, and the air was bouncing off the top of the rang hood and blowing back down. I may have been wrong on that - more later.

To solve the problem, I bought a 4" 12 VDC computer fan from radio shack. However, the 4" fan blades are about 1/4" wider in diameter than the 4" duct. Go figure...


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So, I made an adapter out of 1/2" plywood. I drilled a 4" hole, and then used a rasp to flare the hole out to the diameter of the fan blades. I then lined the opening with foil tape since this is inside a range hood and I didn't want the plywood getting all yucky down the road with grease sticking to it.



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Picture of the fan I bought next to the adapter I made.



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Fan installed in the range hood with the adapter.

Turned it on, and fully expected all my air flow problems to be solved. Not so. Still had a lot of backwash.

Opened up the vent box in the cabinet, and found the problem. The damper I installed was not opening. I hadn't noticed this before, but the vent pipe where the damper is installed is no longer round, so the damper binds. Took the damper out, and the fan works great! Good air flow, and it's really quiet.

I ordered a different damper, so I'll try that when it gets here and see how it works. Other wise, we're seriously thinking of going without a damper.

More to come.

Chris
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:13 PM   #634
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If you don't run with a damper, at least install a well-fitted removable insect screen somewhere in the system. Learned this the hard way when I installed a high-volume home stove hood in Alabama--the mosquitoes are quite capable of finding their way into the house through almost 10 feet of duct work and getting to you...

A removable fly screen that can be taken out and cleaned of grease is vital for any hood that does NOT include a fine mesh grease filter or a well-fitting damper--trust me on this one...
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:23 PM   #635
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Those computer fans are mighty handy. I am thinking of making my own fantastic fan by adding some computer fans to the existing roof vents.

Perry
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:33 AM   #636
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Screen's a good idea - thanks! In thinking about it more, I can see wasps or hornets taking up residence inside the vent tube. I need to come up something for the outside opening. Thought processes are working on it now...
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:45 AM   #637
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Just get you some stainless steel screen and make a custom screen for the outlet. You could put an aluminum frame around it and pop rivet to that and then put the frame inside the vent with a few sheet metal screws to hold it in there. That way you can remove it to clean it. Won't hurt to put some EDPM foam tape around the perimeter as well. You can get all the above at mcmaster.com.

Perry
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Old 08-26-2013, 05:41 PM   #638
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Got a couple of things accomplished in the 90+ degree heat yesterday. Yes, we had the a/c running while we were working in the trailer.

Kay shaved the rivets on the new hatch door we installed (see post 622). She did that in the morning before it got beastly hot.



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We installed a trim piece of aluminum across the back of the kitchen countertop to hide the lower edge of the backsplash and hold it in place.



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The stereo shelf over the front window sagged. Actually, it sagged as soon as we installed it. I think if you look at it in the picture above, you can see that it's slopping down away from the wall. The headliner just has too much give it to hold the shelf level. We had thought about different ways to try and prop the self up with brackets underneath it, but the window is really in the way. Then I saw a thread where folks were using strips of aluminum to hold their ceiling liners in place, and I got an idea...



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Here's what we came up with. Two 1/8" thick by 2" wide aluminum bars. They are riveted to the frame that runs across the top of the window and the first rib. We riveted them to the window frame first, then pushed them as hard as we could into the curve of the headliner, and then riveted them to the first rib.


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Close up of the rivets. Used 3/16" rivets for strength. And the strips are long enough the fan trim piece hides the edge. Got lucky on that - I bought an 8 foot long piece, cut it half, and it was long enough to reach the fan trim ring.


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Here's the top part of the shelf dry fitted in place.



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Close-up of the brackets that mount the shelf to the strips. It's pretty solid now, and the shelf is level. And, we're no longer worried about it falling off the wall...

We'll paint the aluminum strips the same color as the interior so they'll blend in better.

Chris
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:26 PM   #639
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Forgot to post where we got the backsplash from. It came from www.ceilingtilesbyus.com. It's a continuous PVC sheet and comes in multiple looks. Good customer service: they called us after we received the order to make sure we knew how to install it and answer any questions! It comes out of the box very curled up and we were concerned that it wouldn't flatten to the trailer very well but our fears were unfounded. It grabbed on the Powergrab very quickly and flattened right out to the wall. No having to hold it in place once we smoothed it out. We had seen it used on a backsplash last winter on the DIY show "I Hate My Kitchen" which is filmed in the Twin Cities. We're happy with the product!

Kay
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:41 PM   #640
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The Kitchen counter and back splash looks great Kay. Have you given any thought about what happens when the counter gets wet and where the water will go? I was thinking mainly to the right of the sink. It would be ashamed if that pretty wood divider got stained or water damaged. I am sure Chris used real plywood for the counter top and not that particle board stuff that explodes and falls apart when it gets wet.

Perry
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