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Old 04-24-2013, 07:56 PM   #521
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Back to the upper kitchen cabinet we installed the cabinet bottom today! Pretty simple installation; glue around the outside edge of the plywood and then we tacked it to the underside of the cabinet frame with pin nails.


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We installed the under cabinet lights and hung the range hood, although I still need to install the fan and duct.


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The curtain valance is now screwed to the underside of the cabinet instead of mounted on the wall with French clips.


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We decided to mount the light switch for the under cabinet lights right next to the range hood. Nice and easy to reach.


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And viola the lights even work! We tried a single LED light, but decided that wasnt enough light, so we ordered a second one before I made the underside of the cabinet. These are 12 LED warm white light fixtures, and they provide plenty of light for the sink and counter top.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:45 AM   #522
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Now that we seem to be out of winter, and can play with the water system again, we decided yesterday to test an issue with our water pump. We have camped 2 weekends, and have had adequate water flow at the faucets but were not happy with the shower flow: way to low. We had installed a Flojet variable speed pump, after some research. We were going to swap it with our sons standard pump to test, but came up with an Ah Ha moment before we did the work, and just used the city water connection with a hose.
Lo and behold, the shower works fine with city water. That means we need a new pump. And so, it is ordered! Luckily there is a sale at Camping World. We ordered a Shurflo this time.
I think variable speed would probably work well with a shorter trailer, but we think our run from under the frig to the rear of the trailer is too long.
Anyone want a variable speed pump? Only used 2 weekends.......

Kay
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:48 PM   #523
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Accomplished a few things today. First off, I cleaned and re-sealed the leaking vista view window. Looks like it was leaking through the two seams in the frame, so I cleaned out what I could, and then squeezed in as much vulkum as I could into both seams. I also cleaned the seal around the top of the window frame and re-vulkumed it just to be safe. It did rain this evening, and no water came in, so maybe I fixed it.


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Kay did some touch-up painting, and she painted the inside of the cabinet over the fridge.

While she worked on painting, I built an inner cabinet for the bottom of the microwave cabinet. I installed it, the two drawers, and bottom door this morning.


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This is the door installed, and you can see the cabinet liner I made. Its plywood, glued and stapled together. Kay gave it one coat of poly to seal it before I installed it. Itll keep stuff stored in the cabinet from getting into the wiring or the converter.


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Cabinet with both drawers and the cutting board installed. We started working on the countertop this evening, but ran out of steam.


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This afternoon, we installed the 3rd cabinet door on the upper kitchen cabinet.


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We also installed the 3 spring struts to hold the doors open. They also snap closed, so I dont think well need any other catch to hold the doors closed while traveling.


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Our moose. I bought this for Kay years ago, and its been in 3 trailers with us so far.

Chris
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:31 AM   #524
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Love your wood work and the moose is pretty cool too!
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:40 AM   #525
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Thanks. I'm just amazed that no one has asked us about the hole in the wall at the end of the cabinet run yet!

Kay
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:25 PM   #526
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I think we were all so in awe of the workmanship we didnt notice
I had to enlarge the pics to even see it, guess the eyes aint what they used to be So I'll bite- whats up with the hole?
tim
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:15 PM   #527
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Weeelllllll, it's another one of those "design change" things, or in other words: OOPS. We had installed the air conditioner control in that spot. Perfect! Until we decided to install the upper cabinet in that spot. Hmmm. We're still working on covering up the hole in one of those "I meant to do that" ways! Chris is thinking trim piece. We'll come up with something.
He does do really nice work, doesn't he! Although I think I'm a little prejudiced.......

Kay
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:33 PM   #528
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In addition to experimenting with strippers (in another thread Kay posted on, but well show the finished results here), we made the countertop for the microwave cabinet.


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Matches the rest of the countertops plywood and laminate. If you look closely, you can see the notches to accommodate the face frame on the fridge cabinet and the future wardrobe cabinet that'll be next to it. The wardrobe face frame will be right behind where the aluminum edge ends. The microwave is bolted to the countertop through the two front plastic feet.


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Kinda hard to see, but there's a big notch at the rear of the countertop to accommodate the outlet. This is an original outlet location. Since it'll be totally hidden behind the microwave, we decided to notch the countertop instead of move the outlet higher.

Chris
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:22 AM   #529
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Cork Flooring

I talked to Lumber Liquidators here and the only sort of grey underlayment they had was a Bellwood Premium Underlayment at $0.80/sq ft.

Do you recall if that was the one you used?

Chuck Neir
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:59 PM   #530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Neir View Post
I talked to Lumber Liquidators here and the only sort of grey underlayment they had was a Bellwood Premium Underlayment at $0.80/sq ft.

Do you recall if that was the one you used?

Chuck Neir
Hi Chuck,

It was Dream Home Insulayment. 100 Sq foot roll was $50, and we needed 2 of them.

Chris
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:55 PM   #531
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Update on the water pump. We installed the new one over the weekend, and the shower water flow is ducky now. I think we just had too long a run for the variable speed pump. It's just as quiet as the variable speed pump, so that's a plus. No need for an accumulator tank.

Chris
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:03 PM   #532
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Do these strut things work totally off of spring pressure or are they gas filled like the trunk lid supports on car that cost an arm and a leg to replace every few years?

Perry

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Old 05-13-2013, 02:35 PM   #533
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Do these strut things work totally off of spring pressure or are they gas filled like the trunk lid supports on car that cost an arm and a leg to replace every few years?

Perry
These are totally spring pressure. $4 each instead of $30 each. Got them from Camping World: Plastic Spring Loaded Cabinet Door Support - RV Designer H279 - Cabinet Hardware - Camping World

Chris
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:30 PM   #534
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Good find Chris. How did you get so good at making cabinets?

Perry
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:44 AM   #535
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I watched Norm a lot.

Plus, about 16 years ago, we wanted a new kitchen. And we wanted hickory cabinets before hickory was popular. That meant custom cabinets. Like $25K to $30K custom cabinets. After watching Norm (New Yankee Workshop) build kitchen cabinets, I told Kay I could do that if I bought a couple of new tools, the biggest one being a contractor table saw. So, I taught myself how to build cabinets. Made a few mistakes, and continue to do so, but sometimes woodworking is forgiving. Sometimes it's not, and you start over on a part... Sometime you cut a part wrong 3 times in a row, and then give up for the day and start again the next day. Did that on a high chair I made.

Anyway, lots of practice and trial-and-error over the years. And thanks for the kind words! As the builder, I know where all the flaws are. But, I've learned not to point them out to other people as much as I used to.

Chris
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:58 AM   #536
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Yeah, I got to agree with Perry. Beautiful work! Everytime I look at this thread, I'm ashamed of the work I do...
-Red
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Somebody ought to clean these windows. There is a tremendous buildup of gook all over them...
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:05 AM   #537
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If we stay in the current house I am going to try to build the kitchen cabinets. Probably will use oak for durability.

I need to make some new valances above the windows that also cover up some flourescent lights. I am trying to figure out a way to do it without using solid oak which is heavy and expensive. The old valances have some green/blue faded mouse fur stuff (YUCK). Probably the easiest will be to use oak 1"x4" boards and round the edges with a router. I am going to gradually replace the fake oak with real oak.

Perry
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:44 AM   #538
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Red - don't put yourself down!

Perry - Use plywood to build the cabinet boxes. I'd use whatever was cheapest - birch, maple, oak, etc. since it'll be inside.

Regarding the valances, do you have a planer? Or can you buy one?

We built our valances out of 1/4" plywood for the top and front, and 1/2" basswood for the sides to attach the plywood to. If I were building them out of solid wood that was going to be exposed, I'd use 1/4" thick boards for the top and front and 1/2" thick for the sides. Overlap the top piece over the front piece to help prevent sagging. Then, even in solid oak, they wouldn't be very heavy. I know Menard's carries 1/4" and 1/2" oak boards around us. Sometimes they are solid wood, and sometimes they are glued up from small pieces and then cut to dimension. Either way would save you having to cut and plane boards to 1/4" and 1/2" thick. Just a thought.

Chris
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:54 AM   #539
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Do you have some photos of your valances? The ones I saw were fabric covered. I don't have a planner yet. I was just going to buy prefinished boards $$$.

Perry

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Red - don't put yourself down!

Perry - Use plywood to build the cabinet boxes. I'd use whatever was cheapest - birch, maple, oak, etc. since it'll be inside.

Regarding the valances, do you have a planer? Or can you buy one?

We built our valances out of 1/4" plywood for the top and front, and 1/2" basswood for the sides to attach the plywood to. If I were building them out of solid wood that was going to be exposed, I'd use 1/4" thick boards for the top and front and 1/2" thick for the sides. Overlap the top piece over the front piece to help prevent sagging. Then, even in solid oak, they wouldn't be very heavy. I know Menard's carries 1/4" and 1/2" oak boards around us. Sometimes they are solid wood, and sometimes they are glued up from small pieces and then cut to dimension. Either way would save you having to cut and plane boards to 1/4" and 1/2" thick. Just a thought.

Chris
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:46 PM   #540
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Do you have some photos of your valances? The ones I saw were fabric covered. I don't have a planner yet. I was just going to buy prefinished boards $$$.

Perry
here ya go. One uncovered and one covered.

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