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Old 04-15-2012, 05:31 PM   #321
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One of the things that has bothered me is the slot in the stair outriggers. While necessary in order for the stairs to work, it seems like itís a great place to let small critters and mice into the belly pan area.

We took the old stairs off last weekend, and after close inspection of the stairs and outriggers, we ordered new ones. They arrived late last week. Since it was rainy today, I thought Iíd spend some time and see what I could come up with to stop mice from using the slots as an entrance. Hereís what I came up with.


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Made out of galvanized sheet metal. Riveted in 4 places to hold it together.


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I made two of them, one for each stair outrigger.


Certainly not watertight, but that wasnít my intention. I just want to keep the mice out of the underbelly, not trap water against the outriggers. My hope is to pop-rivet them to the outriggers, but Iíll have to get the outriggers and stairs installed to make sure any rivets do not interfere with the operation of the stairs.

Chris
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:21 PM   #322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minno
One of the things that has bothered me is the slot in the stair outriggers. While necessary in order for the stairs to work, it seems like it’s a great place to let small critters and mice into the belly pan area.

We took the old stairs off last weekend, and after close inspection of the stairs and outriggers, we ordered new ones. They arrived late last week. Since it was rainy today, I thought I’d spend some time and see what I could come up with to stop mice from using the slots as an entrance. Here’s what I came up with.


Made out of galvanized sheet metal. Riveted in 4 places to hold it together.


I made two of them, one for each stair outrigger.

Certainly not watertight, but that wasn’t my intention. I just want to keep the mice out of the underbelly, not trap water against the outriggers. My hope is to pop-rivet them to the outriggers, but I’ll have to get the outriggers and stairs installed to make sure any rivets do not interfere with the operation of the stairs.

Chris
Great idea Chris. Looks good.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:07 AM   #323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minno View Post
One of the things that has bothered me is the slot in the stair outriggers. While necessary in order for the stairs to work, it seems like itís a great place to let small critters and mice into the belly pan area.

We took the old stairs off last weekend, and after close inspection of the stairs and outriggers, we ordered new ones. They arrived late last week. Since it was rainy today, I thought Iíd spend some time and see what I could come up with to stop mice from using the slots as an entrance. Hereís what I came up with.


Attachment 155858 Attachment 155859
Made out of galvanized sheet metal. Riveted in 4 places to hold it together.


Attachment 155860Attachment 155861
I made two of them, one for each stair outrigger.


Certainly not watertight, but that wasnít my intention. I just want to keep the mice out of the underbelly, not trap water against the outriggers. My hope is to pop-rivet them to the outriggers, but Iíll have to get the outriggers and stairs installed to make sure any rivets do not interfere with the operation of the stairs.

Chris
put me down for 2!! It keeps snakes out too, right?
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:46 AM   #324
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Nice work!
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:27 PM   #325
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Chris, I was thinking that it may be a challenge to keep crud from building up inside of those boxes. Maybe a screen fuzzy on each side of the track would help keep crud out of your new step glide box.

You may want to get a patent on it, someone over at AS R&D may rip off your idea.

Screen Fuzzy Link: http://www.inlandrv.com/catalog/prod...96538088ea879b
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:35 PM   #326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minno View Post
One of the things that has bothered me is the slot in the stair outriggers. While necessary in order for the stairs to work, it seems like itís a great place to let small critters and mice into the belly pan area.

We took the old stairs off last weekend, and after close inspection of the stairs and outriggers, we ordered new ones. They arrived late last week. Since it was rainy today, I thought Iíd spend some time and see what I could come up with to stop mice from using the slots as an entrance. Hereís what I came up with.


Attachment 155858 Attachment 155859
Made out of galvanized sheet metal. Riveted in 4 places to hold it together.


Attachment 155860Attachment 155861
I made two of them, one for each stair outrigger.


Certainly not watertight, but that wasnít my intention. I just want to keep the mice out of the underbelly, not trap water against the outriggers. My hope is to pop-rivet them to the outriggers, but Iíll have to get the outriggers and stairs installed to make sure any rivets do not interfere with the operation of the stairs.

Chris
Chris, could you please provide some additional explanation? I understand your desire to keep out the mice, but I do not understand how your sheet metal operates (and how it fits together with the outriggers. I have a 56 Flying Cloud that may have the same issue regarding rodents, and I would like to understand what you did.

Thanks for your great thread.

Hank
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Old 04-16-2012, 02:39 PM   #327
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Now you tell me. I just sealed up my belly pan last week and had the same thought, how do I seal up those stair track holes.....
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:31 PM   #328
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Now you tell me. I just sealed up my belly pan last week and had the same thought, how do I seal up those stair track holes.....
Sorry... but you should only have to drill out a couple hundred rivets to get access to the hidden sides of the stair outriggers. Easy-peasy!
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:52 PM   #329
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Originally Posted by hjlairf View Post
Chris, could you please provide some additional explanation? I understand your desire to keep out the mice, but I do not understand how your sheet metal operates (and how it fits together with the outriggers. I have a 56 Flying Cloud that may have the same issue regarding rodents, and I would like to understand what you did.

Thanks for your great thread.

Hank
Hey Hank,

Thanks for the comment! To help answer your question, hereíre a few more pictures of what I'm doing.


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Hereís the steps set in between the outriggers on our porch table. The outside of the outriggers will be inside the side wrap once the belly wrap and side wraps are all installed. The slot where the sliding blot moves back and froth is a perfect access space for mice, as they only need about a ľĒ gap to squeeze through. Once they get into the side wrap area around the outriggers, they can get into the center belly pan area too and raise all sorts of havoc.


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The covers I made will go on the outside of the outriggers (where outside is the other side from where the steps are located). These covers completely cover the slot, and will prevent any mice (or snakes) from getting through the slot and into the belly. Iíll either rivet the covers to the outriggers, or use flat head machine screws and lock nuts to hold them in place. I did end up with a couple of gaps that Iíll need to vulkum. But I will not vulkum the entire cover in place as I want it to drain any water that gets into them. Been thinking more about how to deal with the water too Ė stay tuned.


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As you can kinda see in these pictures, the steps will have very little clearance between them and the outrigger once installed. So, with the steps in place, I donít think Iíll have enough clearance for pop rivets, unless I countersink them on the step side. I doubt thereís room for fuzzy stuff to help keep debris out either, but Iíll need to experiment a bit and see what I can work out. I know flat head machine screws will work since I can countersink the heads, so I may just go with them and not even try rivets. First things first though Ė I need to cut the old outriggers out and weld the new ones in place.

Chris
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Old 04-16-2012, 04:56 PM   #330
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put me down for 2!! It keeps snakes out too, right?
I would so, yes. In keeping with standard pricing for extra-special Airstream specific items, I think $100 for the pair of them would be about right... Gotta cover my research and development costs after all!
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:17 PM   #331
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I would so, yes. In keeping with standard pricing for extra-special Airstream specific items, I think $100 for the pair of them would be about right... Gotta cover my research and development costs after all!
Well $100 for the first 5, which are all you are making. After that you will of course have to do a special production run to recreate the originals, and charge $200 each.

(Just trying to help you pay for your trailer)

On a serious note, very very nice walkthrough and description. It's like a how-to article, "Critters, Entry Steps, and You". Well done.
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:07 PM   #332
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That is very nice work Chris.
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:44 AM   #333
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Chris, thanks for the additional photos and explanation. I now understand what you are doing, and I have saved your posts and pictures for future reference.

Hank
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:03 PM   #334
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Chris, thanks for the additional photos and explanation. I now understand what you are doing, and I have saved your posts and pictures for future reference.

Hank


We have several threads bookmarked that we refer back to quite often too.
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:51 PM   #335
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Last weekend, or maybe it was two weekends ago, I finished the fridge frame. Mounted 3/4" plywood on it and drilled holes in the bottom frame to mount to the floor.

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Here it is with the fridge on top of it. Just sitting here for now - not bolted in place yet. Gets the fridge out of our way for now too.


Today, we started working on the bed frame since it was rainy pretty much all day.

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The frame is 1 x 2 basswood, covered with red alder plywood on the outside. The middle partition is covered in luan plywood. The frame is 17 1/2" deep, so a fair amount of storage. The cut out you can see right by the white bucket is for two 4" furnance ducts. One duct will turn 90 degrees and exhaust heat into the hallway, and the other one will continue back to heat the bathroom.

Chris
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:59 PM   #336
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How about a suggestion? Make a 32" wide notch into the center divider...this way you can lift the bed, lay in a card table and lower the bed...

Just a thought based on our 29'er when I made a new bed frame for it.
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:03 PM   #337
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How about a suggestion? Make a 32" wide notch into the center divider...this way you can lift the bed, lay in a card table and lower the bed...

Just a thought based on our 29'er when I made a new bed frame for it.
But, that doesn't give a heck of a lot of head room for playing cards, does it?
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:09 PM   #338
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And, yes, I AM married to a real brat. But he makes beautiful things and puts up with me saying "you know I've been thinking and maybe we should (insert whatever) while we're at it". Usually ends up taking more time and costing more money!

Kay
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:51 AM   #339
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Forgot the thank you, Hi Ho for the suggestion on the card table storage! Would have never thought of that on our own, and it is a great idea.

Kay
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Old 04-22-2012, 06:28 PM   #340
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Finished the bed today. Well, mostly anyway. After struggling a bit over how to support the foot of the bed where it goes over the wheel well, I decided to add a 5/8" plywood support to the inside of the foot wall. It follows the same cutout over the future ducts and wheel well, but it adds a ton of support to that corner. I then put together a 5Ē wide plywood strip that will mount to the 1 x 2 we screwed to the wall. Itís supported with an ĒLĒ girder made out of a 1 x 2 and 1 x 3 piece of basswood. The hinge is attached to this 5Ē strip next to the wall. The pictures below show the hinge strip and the rest of the plywood top in place. Neither is screwed into place yet as I want full access to under the bed for the rest of the plumbing we still need to do. But now we have a place to store our mattress, which is currently sitting on the bed in our sonís trailer (and is in the way for us to use their trailer this summer).
We still have to run electrical in the wall at the head of the bed for reading lights and cover it with red alder plywood too. Need gas struts for the bed also. We'll have to be careful where we put the lights so that the bed can be opened for access to the storage without taking the lights off the wall!

Chris
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