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Old 09-12-2012, 06:38 PM   #99
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You DO know that we wives are on to you guys. We know all the tricks you use for getting new tools. I've learned from the best how to get my own new quilting tools.

Kay
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:05 PM   #100
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Oh yes...the shrinker/stretcher tool is a better deal...The only plywood that works is 200 year old mohogany, the hammer is made from a rare Oriental Multi Layered Bronze and it only works on Space Grade Aluminum Alloys... Don't all Airstream owners have those? ;0)
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Old 09-13-2012, 04:58 AM   #101
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Oh yes...the shrinker/stretcher tool is a better deal...The only plywood that works is 200 year old mohogany, the hammer is made from a rare Oriental Multi Layered Bronze and it only works on Space Grade Aluminum Alloys... Don't all Airstream owners have those? ;0)
Speaking about alloys...There is a place in Columbus that has a huge lot of 3003 4' x 8' x .032 seconds for $33/ sheet (cheap belly pan)...now how can I work out getting that space age bronze hammer, I know....., I will call it a roof flashing hammer, something I will need to repair the hacienda de bauxter...Mrs. Bauxter will fall for it hook, line, and sinker
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:58 PM   #102
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Speaking about alloys...There is a place in Columbus that has a huge lot of 3003 4' x 8' x .032 seconds for $33/ sheet (cheap belly pan)...now how can I work out getting that space age bronze hammer, I know....., I will call it a roof flashing hammer, something I will need to repair the hacienda de bauxter...Mrs. Bauxter will fall for it hook, line, and sinker
I used 3003 .025 for the belly pan and it worked great. For yours the .032 should be perfect since you don't have to make the corner wraps.

I think I paid $44/$48 for 4x10 sheets, cutting and running it crossways.

Yeah, Hacienda de Bauxter flashing hammer...that works!
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:04 PM   #103
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Things we can do when it's cold outside.

So, I went out to the AS trying to figure out what I can do through the winter, and noticed that my tail lights were leaking when it rained. I temporarily sealed the outside joints that meet the aluminum with some vulkem. The leaks slowed a lot, but there is still a trickle. The AS has had some body damage and repair, and it looks like the tail light housings are not the same as each other.
Are there rebuild kits for these things? It seems that I have seen some lenses, but not sure about gaskets. Maybe I should just remove, and duct tape the holes until I have fixed or replaced.

Any suggestions? Does anyone have a link to a good thread on the subject, or a blowup diagram of the light assembly?
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:11 AM   #104
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Check LED 4RV website. I think they have all the replacement parts including the tuna can liners. Chris rebuilt ours himself before the other stuff came out (of course, that's how it always goes!), and used LED lights for improved safety.

Kay
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:10 AM   #105
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It looks like you are missing the interior cover on the lower picture. I have a pair of them I,m not using.
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:24 PM   #106
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OK so it's been a while

Seems like it took me a year to do not much of anything, but I did get the belly pan, wraps, fresh and waste tanks, spare tire, and running lights installed. Rear tail lights have new LED's. I did not use the Grote cans, as I used the sealed LED's. I used black Vulkem 116 around each light, which has the appearance of a rubber gasket.
In case you can't tell, the trim is going to be black (non-conformist, rebel punk that I am).
I also did away with the rear hatch. I plan on building an exterior aluminum trunk, or buy an aluminum truck tool box if I get lazy, and mount on the rear. I have a 3/16 C channel frame now, so hopefully the little extra weight in the rear won't be an issue.
The tank enclosure is complete, but the removable face plate is not on, in the picture. The gray is 27 gallons, and the black is 24.
The plan is to launch Labor day, so there is a lot to do in the next 3 months.
I will be removing the 3 vista view windows, and installing patch panels this weekend...stop by if you need practice on buck riveting.

More to follow in the next few weeks
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Old 05-24-2014, 08:12 PM   #107
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Goodbye vista views, I will miss you, NOT

Removed the first of 3 Vista Views today. I can see why the windows leak.
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Old 05-26-2014, 08:31 PM   #108
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Removed the antenna while I was at it

I really like the looks of the trailer without the vista views and antenna.

Thank goodness my son was around to buck some rivets. Olympics would have cost a small fortune to do the 3 vista views. I will remove and replace the antenna cable cover next.
You may have noticed the crud on the roof....Time for a wash.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:22 PM   #109
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I'm new, so pardon me if this is a stupid question, but why remove the vista views?
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:20 AM   #110
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vista views

They are a leak source. I didn't like them anyhow. Since I am not restoring, but remodeling, I wanted to simplify my full-timing experience, minimizing maintenance, so I did not worry about keeping the old trailer in its factory-made form.
Plus, I already mentioned that (I am a non-conformist, rebel punk.)



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Old 05-27-2014, 06:15 AM   #111
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If you are going to make everything black then maybe you should change your handle to Blackster.

I would have nixed the vista views for the same reason, they are a pain in the A__. It does look like someone has replaced one of the tail lights. The older one looks like it is less likely to leak since it has a plastic cup behind it. My tail lights both have the plastic cup. Once that is sealed it does not matter if the tail lights leak. Water will leak in and leak out.

Perry


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They are a leak source. I didn't like them anyhow. Since I am not restoring, but remodeling, I wanted to simplify my full-timing experience, minimizing maintenance, so I did not worry about keeping the old trailer in its factory-made form.
Plus, I already mentioned that (I am a non-conformist, rebel punk.)



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Old 05-27-2014, 06:37 AM   #112
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If you are going to make everything black then maybe you should change your handle to Blackster.

I would have nixed the vista views for the same reason, they are a pain in the A__. It does look like someone has replaced one of the tail lights. The older one looks like it is less likely to leak since it has a plastic cup behind it. My tail lights both have the plastic cup. Once that is sealed it does not matter if the tail lights leak. Water will leak in and leak out.

Perry
Perry, The tail-lights are a whole nother conversation... 1973 tail-light assemblies are riveted to the body...the body being sheet, and the tail-light being cast. Since the body was not in the original factory perfect shape, I could not rivet them, as the rivets did not draw the assembly tight enough to the body for a leak-proof deal. I tapped the holes in the assemblies, and use stainless 10/32 screws to draw the assembly to the body. It worked great, but now, I am afraid to loosen the screws to instal the inside covers to the lights. I am still thinking on the situation, maybe an epiphany will occur, or more likely a knowledgeable member will advise me of what to do.

BTW, only the trim lines will be black, kind of a pirate mind-set kind of thing. OK, there may be some pink too, as in flamingo.

mike
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