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Old 08-21-2011, 07:04 AM   #71
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You are correct Baux. If you do not have a gray tank, the gray water goes out directly. I believe some Excellas and late year 73s had gray tanks. You can put the cap on the outlet and open the black tank valve and it will fill the black tank. I tried that ONCE! I don't recommend it, but it can be done in a pinch. That is why most people restoring/renovating a trailer without gray tanks chose to add them. It makes things much more convenient.
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Old 08-21-2011, 07:05 AM   #72
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While assembling the new frame, I thought that adding a gray tank support structure would be wise. I have pictures of the AS, as I disassembled, but cant find my waste line pics, so I referred back to the AS maintenance book. I noticed something strange. Looking at the attached diagram, it looks like the gray water does not go to the black tank, and instead runs directly out of the pipe. Am I correct?? I have never camped in a travel trailer, but I am thinking that if you are boondocking, you couldn't really use the water, without draining gray water to the parking lot.
That is correct. Without a grey tank the water runs out of the drain with nothing to stop it.
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:25 AM   #73
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Don't shoot the welder

I am using the old frame as a jig to weld the new one. I had some serious warping on the front-end where I welded the 3/16 plate to the c channel. Darkspeed gave me some great solutions, and the c channel seems to be relatively straight at this point. If you noticed the weld lines on the outside of the main-rail in picture #2, that is where I used the weld heat on that side of the rail to reverse the warp caused by the plate weld.
The 3/16 plates still need some stitching, and would consider their removal, except I am not sure how I would attach the A-frame without it. If you look at the arrows in picture 2, you can see the old and new 3/16 plates. The old plates have holes punched in them, and I suspect it was done to minimize warping when AS welded the frame.
I will be starting the angle cross-members today, weather permitting. I think once I get a little more lateral support in the frame, I will attempt more stitching on the plate.
I also noticed that the old frame was not square....now trying to figure out if and how to adjust the jig.
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Old 11-14-2011, 02:24 PM   #74
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Frame supports...I think

I have been busy working on the A/S for a few months, and haven't been very good about updating the thread.

I am building a new frame, and am somewhat stumped regarding the axle assembly. If you look at the attached, the picture shows an angle attached to the frame area, where the axles are mounted. I have been told that this is not factory. The question is, "should I use it?"...I think it was put in aftermarket, to help stiffen the frame. In addition there are many bolts holding the angle to the frame. "If I use the angle,should I bolt, or not bolt the angle assembly to the new frame?"

And how 'bout those 2 inch holes in the plate above the shock,,,,do I need those too?

Thanks in advance for your input!
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:57 PM   #75
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I have been busy working on the A/S for a few months, and haven't been very good about updating the thread.

I am building a new frame, and am somewhat stumped regarding the axle assembly. If you look at the attached, the picture shows an angle attached to the frame area, where the axles are mounted. I have been told that this is not factory. The question is, "should I use it?"...I think it was put in aftermarket, to help stiffen the frame. In addition there are many bolts holding the angle to the frame. "If I use the angle,should I bolt, or not bolt the angle assembly to the new frame?"

And how 'bout those 2 inch holes in the plate above the shock,,,,do I need those too?

Thanks in advance for your input!

Thats an aftermarket repair.

There is no harm in reusing it and you could just weld it in place rather than bolts.

The "lightning" holes are not needed.

Did notice the crack in the second photo..
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:09 PM   #76
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Thanks Darkspeed. That cracked frame will be headed to the trailer park in the sky (scrap yard), when I am done stripping it.
I am getting close to the finish line on the frame. The cross-members are welded in, and most of the outriggers are tacked in place.
I noticed that the outriggers for the steps are 15", as opposed to 14 3/4 for a normal outrigger. I am wondering if I need that 1/4" as the steps will be traversed by angle aluminum...? I would like to cut them off of the old frame and reuse if possible.
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:39 AM   #77
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2012 Activities Have Officially Begun

I am starting the season off with 500 pounds of fun!
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:24 AM   #78
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Hey Bauxter

Nice Work. Appears we are at the same place in our restoration. I have '73 Tradewind that got a new frame over the winter after learning to weld. What is your plan for shock brackets? I don't see any on the axles. I have new Dexter axles and have to relocate shock brackets from old axles. The arms of the axles appear to be cast. I was under impression that welding cast is a no-no. I also have some concern about the amount of heat on the axle and deforming the rubber bushing inside the axle. I'll note that the arm is welded to the square center rod that is installed in the axle tube - just not sure if home mig welding can weld this material.

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Old 03-24-2012, 07:33 PM   #79
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Hey Bauxter

Nice Work. Appears we are at the same place in our restoration. I have '73 Tradewind that got a new frame over the winter after learning to weld. What is your plan for shock brackets? I don't see any on the axles. I have new Dexter axles and have to relocate shock brackets from old axles. The arms of the axles appear to be cast. I was under impression that welding cast is a no-no. I also have some concern about the amount of heat on the axle and deforming the rubber bushing inside the axle. I'll note that the arm is welded to the square center rod that is installed in the axle tube - just not sure if home mig welding can weld this material.

Dennis
Dennis, I am planning on seeing how the trailer rides without the shocks. I don't want to void the Dexter warranty. I cant comment on the mig, I started with a 110 flux core, but quickly moved to a big ol' arc welder. There are some folks that have posted to this thread that are very experienced in welding. You may want to shoot a note to Darkspeed, he just fabricated what seems to be the mother of all airstream frames...pretty awesome.
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:07 PM   #80
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Axles Installed!

All bolts in, and torqued to 100 lbs. What's amazing is I have used my little bottle jack to lift the shell off the frame. The new frame off of the old frame, and the axles into place. The best $19 I ever spent.
Next UP: Tank supports, POR 15, and then plywood deck. With a little luck and a lotta money, the shell will be back on in June.
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Old 04-05-2012, 04:49 PM   #81
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All bolts in, and torqued to 100 lbs. What's amazing is I have used my little bottle jack to lift the shell off the frame. The new frame off of the old frame, and the axles into place. The best $19 I ever spent.
Next UP: Tank supports, POR 15, and then plywood deck. With a little luck and a lotta money, the shell will be back on in June.
Bauxter - check out the following link. Thinking torque spec is 120-150 ft-lbs for the #10 (3500#) axle.
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/...ation_1-12.pdf

Got mine bolted up last weekend. While Dexter didn't include with the bolt set, I added a Grade 8 washer & lock washer on each bolt. You can get these at Lowes for $1 a piece or a handful from a specialty nut & bolt shop for $2.

if you add washers make sure you use high strength components. Never mix Grade high strength bolts and washers with standard bolts/washers.

The use of flat washers on each side spreads the load on mounting plate to reduce stress in mounting plate.

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Old 04-05-2012, 06:00 PM   #82
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Axle mount

Thanks Dennis, I was reading some other threads that had mentioned 100#. I can just eat my spinach, bust another 20 or 30 # with the torque wrench. My axles are actually 4000#. I am not sure if I can push more than 120# of torque...I am a weakling. All of my bolts are grade 8. The Lowes folks were way more than $1 each for the grade 8 stuff in Columbus, OH. I did not use a flat washer, as I was trying to match what was there. It wouldn't be a big deal to go back and add them, unless I would have to replace the bolts I just installed.
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:57 PM   #83
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Its always the darkest...right before the lights go completely out.

So we had 3 days of high winds in Columbus, OH. The only branch that fell in my yard, landed on 2 of the 3 roof rear segments on the AS. Big Dent! A month away from re-attaching the shell and frame, and now I need to find a body shop.
OK, enough self pity....back to work, pass the Vulkem and rivets..
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:22 PM   #84
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OOH, that's too bad, Bauxter! I always have fears when I hear "hail or high winds" in the weather forcast. Frame is looking good, though. We're almost ready to put our axles on, got the belly pan under that part of her now. I gotta say, your way of doing it with shell off is definitely easier in some respects than what we did with shell on. Belly pan and tank installs are a case in point. It would be sooo much easier if we could just flip the frame and do the belly pan. Unfortunately we'd damage the trailer! Oh well. Chris drills and clecos, I rivet behind him. It works. Looking forward to seeing what's next for you!

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