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Old 07-11-2011, 12:35 PM   #57
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The steel channel 5 @6.7 looks to be 3/16. The info, below is from Metals Depot. I measured my main frame rail and was a little less than 1/8. I am wondering if the steel would have the same load capacity, if the thickness were the same? Could be softer? I am certainly no metal master, its just an observation.

C2567
A-36 Steel Channel5 X 1-3/4 X 3/16 (6.7#)
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Old 07-11-2011, 12:57 PM   #58
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That size profile is either A36 or A500 both are good for a frame. The factory frame was most likely A36

The C5 @6.7 is 3/16 in the web and even thicker in the corners
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Old 07-12-2011, 11:14 AM   #59
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By the way don't use metals depot as a price reference , the specialize in cut to order small items. A metal yard will charge around $0.60 per pound for new steel shapes and $0.30 per pound for rusty or used ( leftover ) shapes. So C5 @6.7lb would be in the $4 per foot range
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Old 07-17-2011, 08:58 PM   #60
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cross-members

Dark, do you see any issue with using the same dimensions as yours for the crossmenbers, but using 1/8 L instead of 3/16 L?
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:15 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bauxter View Post
Dark, do you see any issue with using the same dimensions as yours for the crossmenbers, but using 1/8 L instead of 3/16 L?
Are you referring to 2"x 3" x 1/8" L ?

One of them per cross member or two?

Two would put you at a minimum 6" frame rail height...
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:29 PM   #62
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Bauxter - this guy did a new frame out of 5C 6.7lb

Used it for everything....

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f261...tml#post928635
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:24 AM   #63
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Outriggers

The choices are solid pre-formed outriggers from an AS friendly supplier @ $10.95 ea, "hollow" @ $19.95, or try to fabricate out of angle and 16 ga. steel???
computing.....
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Old 07-23-2011, 04:55 PM   #64
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Practice Welds

I need a lot of practice!!
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:17 PM   #65
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Im going to be supportive and say that is an excellent starting point for improvement...

was that stick or flux core mig? how thick is that metal? where did you have your welder settings?

Welding works better with

clean metal
little or no wind
a comfortable position
the correct settings on the welder
the correct wire / stick for the type of material
a respirator under your helmet
a good auto-darken helmet - so you can see your work prior to pulling the trigger
and a zen like state where you slowly move your arc side to side in a stitch pattern as you move down your work .... melting one side of the weld into the pool and then crossing over to the other side melting that side into the pool so you can see for sure that you are joining metal.

I ruin gloves - every welding job with a mig on anything of any thickness I end up scorching the leather gloves until they are shrunk and stiff from the heat... I like to use one hand as a rest for the other one so I get a nice steady pattern
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Old 07-23-2011, 10:09 PM   #66
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That is my flux core. I don't have my big arc wired up yet. I tried .030 wire, and was really bad, then tried .035 at multiple power and wire speed settings. The picture, above, was as good as it got. I ground down to shiny, but low power would not penetrate, and high power splattered. I am hoping for much better results with the buzz box. I am less than thrilled with 115v flux core.
I am going to use 1/8" 6013 for the arc stick.
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Old 07-23-2011, 10:18 PM   #67
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Looks way underpowered and all of the weld is sitting on the surface. My 180c (.035) is 20A 240v and I would not weld anything over 3/16 with it. I would guess 1/16 would be the limit of a 120v mig
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:42 PM   #68
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Frame re-build

The plan is to build a new frame. I will use 5" X 3/16" (6.7#) channel for the main rails, and 1/8" X 1.5" X 1.5" angle for the cross-members . I would like to box it in at the front like it shows in the picture, but I thought that 1/8" plate, without holes would be sufficient. Do I need the holes? I don't think the weight would be much less, punching those holes out. Not sure how I would paint it inside, though.

For those who have followed this thread: FYI, my practice welds are much better with the 220 AC arc. It feels and performs like the real deal.
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Old 08-21-2011, 06:43 AM   #69
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Thinking ahead: Plumbing

While assembling the new frame, I thought that adding a gray tank support structure would be wise. I have pictures of the AS, as I disassembled, but cant find my waste line pics, so I referred back to the AS maintenance book. I noticed something strange. Looking at the attached diagram, it looks like the gray water does not go to the black tank, and instead runs directly out of the pipe. Am I correct?? I have never camped in a travel trailer, but I am thinking that if you are boondocking, you couldn't really use the water, without draining gray water to the parking lot.
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Old 08-21-2011, 07:02 AM   #70
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Mike you are correct. Your 73 never came with a grey tank. back then it was common place to just drain the grey water onto the ground. Adding a grey tank will require you to reconfigure your waste outlet lines so that the grey water goes into the new grey tank. Then you will have to add an outlet with a blade valve and connect it to the waste outlet line and sewer hose connection point.
If you don't want to add a grey tank you can purchase one of those blue boy portable waste tote tanks. It will connect via a sewer hose to your outlet and then the grey water will be captured in the blue boy.
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