Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-06-2011, 07:12 AM   #43
Moderator
 
HiHoAgRV's Avatar

 
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,659
Images: 29
Blog Entries: 49
Great looking work...I also ended up needing 1/2" rivets on the same day as you...VTS and 2 day shipping...hoping they arrive before Friday!
__________________

__________________
Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
HiHoAgRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2011, 04:02 PM   #44
Rivet Master
 
Minno's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,493
We did buy an exact replacement, and they are NOT cheap! On the other hand, it's not green... Chris is building the grey and black water tanks we're adding out of ABS plastic. Much cheaper option than having them specialty built or buying something we don't like. We hadn't found anything pre-made that doesn't hang below the belly pan and has the capacity we want. Check our Little Girl Refurb thread for some details. Chris didn't make any frame changes, but is putting the grey tanks ganged together behind the fresh tank one above and one behind the rear axle. Black is staying in back. Black tank needs to be below the toilet, as in directly below, so if you move your tank then you're moving your toilet too. We did a shell on floor replacement, so you're at an advantage if you can get your new tanks in place before the floor and shell go back on. We're kind of at a stand still right now - family obligations, but hope to be forging ahead again soon.

Kay
__________________

Minno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2011, 04:57 AM   #45
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
Kay, I have been watching that activity on a couple posts. I was waiting to see if leaks occurred after the trailers were moved/used. As you know, things in a moving trailer sometimes do unexpected things. I hope it works out for you, as we need a cheaper alternative to new tanks.
I would love to put a gray tank (currently none) directly behind the axles, and the black, right after the next cross-member. I have seen newer units like that, and really liked it . Since I am adding new axles, with the extended lift bracket, I could add an inch or so underneath for the tanks, but the 4" drain may require belly wrap changes.
I will have time to mull it over, my next step is new frame metal..a few cross-members, and a bunch of outriggers. I probably will need to decide before the POR15 goes on.
Bauxter is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2011, 06:11 PM   #46
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
Need welding advice

I have removed everything from the frame. I planned on just replacing a few cross-members and outriggers, but have run into an issue (imagine that!).
The picture with the arrow shows the spot on the main-rail that has the bottom part of the channel rusted through, as noted in the second picture. Since I have not ground this down yet, I am not sure how far the channel is compromised, but am guessing 3-4 inches in both directions. Please note that the hitch frame member is attached at that spot. I would think a great deal of load is carried at that point on the frame.
What to do, what to do...
Should this be addressed by a pro, or can me and my flux-core 115v welder handle this?
I was thinking of removing the outrigger, apply a 3 or 4 foot L channel to the outside. I would bore holes on the face of the L channel, and spot weld in those holes, as well as weld along the top and bottom.
Advice would be greatly appreciated.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF6180.JPG
Views:	120
Size:	572.2 KB
ID:	134444   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF6181.JPG
Views:	111
Size:	256.1 KB
ID:	134445  

Bauxter is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2011, 11:16 PM   #47
Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
 
Darkspeed's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel , Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
Images: 6
EEEk... Mine was the same way, the A frame on mine was thicker walled tube than the frame itself and that joint is super critical.. Any chance you can sand blast it - and then see what is left... then re-evaluate... You need to be looking at fresh metal to decide..

The frame is light enough for a 115v welder but the A frame connection will need better penetration.
Darkspeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2011, 06:09 AM   #48
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
Dark, Thanks!

Have you started your frame yet? I don't see anything on your '72 thread. I am toying with pulling my frame over to a frame shop nearby, and have them sandblast and fix the rot. This would certainly speed up the process, gaurantee a safer result, and make the POR15 step that much easier....it all depends on the $$.

Mike
Bauxter is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2011, 06:17 AM   #49
Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
 
Darkspeed's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel , Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
Images: 6
I'm still sitting here waiting on the steel truck.... But soon!

That sounds like a good plan!
Darkspeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2011, 06:21 AM   #50
x
 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
Mike sorry for the delay but I got busy last night. I can't offer you much advice about welding. All that I know on that subject is that I was lucky to have a welder on site that did mine for "mate's rates". Mine was so badly damaged on the main frame rails that it was easier to make a whole new frame rather than trying to patch up the old one. It also gave me the chance to use larger guage steel and box it in at critical stress points.
I would think about replacing the frame rail in that section. You can't be sure how strong the steel is behind the A frame and I wouldn't want it to crack or bend in that location.
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2011, 06:41 AM   #51
Top
Always learning
 
Top's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,780
Images: 24
Blog Entries: 2
Send a message via Yahoo to Top
Hey Bauxter,
Nice work you have going on there. Too bad you didn't make it to Albuquerque. It would have been nice to meet you. You would have enjoyed the rally for sure.
I recommend having an entirely new frame made as Wasaga Chris and others have done if you can find someone to fabricate it and afford the price they will charge. Your frame appears to be repairable from the pictures you have posted. A good sand blasting to bare metal will give you a better idea how much old rusted metal will need to be cut away and replaced with fresh steel. Keep it up! You are doing great work!
__________________
Lance

Work is never done, so take time to play!
Top is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2011, 07:02 AM   #52
Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
 
Darkspeed's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel , Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
Images: 6
The "C" Chanel 5" tall in a 6.7lb per foot weight makes a really nice frame and it is nice and strong without being overkill. Some will say that is too stiff for an AS. But not me
Darkspeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2011, 07:55 AM   #53
Top
Always learning
 
Top's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,780
Images: 24
Blog Entries: 2
Send a message via Yahoo to Top
Not a jab or attempt to hijack

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkspeed View Post
Having started doing the drawings for a new frame using the existing frame for a point of reference, and including the aluminum monocoque for strength.... Errrr it looks like the original frame was about 20% under engineered.

Is this correct?
Darkspeed,
Will this C 5x6.7 make up the 20% deficiency? I have been wondering about your post on this elsewhere for some time now. I'm just trying to understand how you came up with the 20%. When I made repairs on Abby, I was concerned about having enough additional support, but not adding too much useless weight.
__________________
Lance

Work is never done, so take time to play!
Top is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2011, 08:58 AM   #54
Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
 
Darkspeed's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel , Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
Images: 6
C5 @6.7 using the existing frame design is ( in my opinion ) a good choice for a replacement material and should be well within the required structure if welded correctly. The factory frame material ( inclusive of monocoque design ) was not adequate for the span in the design
Darkspeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2011, 09:07 AM   #55
Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
 
Darkspeed's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel , Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
Images: 6
1/16 for the frame and 1/8 for the a frame on a 27' deck 3' A frame is not only under designed ( based on factory design ) it allows no factor for corrosion in a frame that was designed ( by the addition of the pink devil sponge ) to rust.
Darkspeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2011, 09:11 AM   #56
Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
 
Darkspeed's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel , Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
Images: 6
Weigh your existing frame. ????lb

Measure the length in feet of the frame rails and cross members and multiply by 6.7lb

The difference is how much you will be adding to your trailers weight by building a new frame with C5 @6.7lb
__________________

Darkspeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1973, 31', remodel, skin replacement, sovereign


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Restoring 1973 Sovereign Baton Rouge BWMorgan225 1970 - 1973 Sovereign 76 04-15-2014 05:55 AM
1973 Airstream Sovereign Land Yacht Southern California eBay Watch Airstreams on eBay 0 02-22-2011 12:40 PM
1973 Airstream Sovereign Land Yacht Southern California eBay Watch Airstreams on eBay 0 02-11-2011 09:10 PM
Towing 31' sovereign 1973 model Flaboy67 Tow Vehicles 1 02-04-2011 06:17 PM
Great 1973 Airstream Sovereign with screen room eBay Watch Airstreams on eBay 0 01-30-2011 06:50 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:26 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.