Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-03-2011, 07:04 AM   #29
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
Solid Rivet Source

Does anyone know where I can get 1/2 inch solid rivets over the weekend in Columbus, OH?? VTS has them, but may take several days to get here.
__________________

Bauxter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2011, 08:42 PM   #30
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
Need some feedback

The picture shows where the side and front floor channel meets....I am thinking I should fill in the gap. If anyone has some insight into this dilemma, please advise.
I should finish riveting the street side panel this weekend. I would have been done sooner, but it takes two to tango(in buck rivet terminology), and I am running solo, for the most part.
On another sour note, I have been fighting the Vulkem caulking tubes. It seems that the product just does not want to exit the tube, no matter how hard I squeeze. I have since located a couple tubes of Sikaflex, and will report on how well it performs, at least during installation.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF6100.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	404.9 KB
ID:	132046  
__________________

Bauxter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2011, 09:41 PM   #31
x
 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
Mike I had the same issue with mine as well. The side wraps and banana wraps and also the lower beltline trim will cover this from the outside. The factory just filled up the space on the inside with Vulkem.
I had issues with the vulkem as well. I found that if the tube was old it seemed to flow slower.
I'm curious about the floor sheets. They look like particle or chip board. That wouldn't be the factory original floor, yet the elevator bolts look like original the way they are rusted and bent over. Has the floor already been replaced at one time or is this your replacement floor?
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2011, 04:51 AM   #32
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
Chris, The floor is a mess. Some PO pieced in the floor, and notched around the bolts. Some wood is (newer), but not my doing, and the bolts are original...good eye.The rear bath is rotted out, as you would expect. The front also has much of the perimeter wood replaced. Stinky rotten wood.
I had to cancel my trip to the 4CU restoration rally to stay home for this? Ugh!! Hopefully, she, "Venom", will be with me in ABQ next year for the rally.
Bauxter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2011, 01:00 PM   #33
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
Heavy Lifting

The lift went well, using one 6 ton jack, and a lot of 4X6 blocks. I was working solo, so I have to admit that I was sweating bullets during the lift.
I built the stands it is sitting on, as I don't trust the sawhorse brackets sold in stores. The fencing and buildings surrounding the trailer act as decent wind breaks.
The next step is to pull the frame out from underneath it, remove the wood, the belly pan, the animal remnants, and proceed with frame restoration.
Now I need two 31'X8' spaces in the driveway.....Mrs. Bauxter will not be happy.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Copy of IMG098.jpg
Views:	146
Size:	513.2 KB
ID:	133567  
Bauxter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2011, 01:59 PM   #34
x
 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
Congradulations Mike on a sucessful lift off. Your sawhorses look very sturdy.
Are those the notches I can see in the front floor section from the PO's attempt at floor repair?
If Mrs. B is not happy just tell her you're building two airstreams, a his and hers.
P.S. take lots of measurements of the location of the floor sheets, wheel wells and anything else you think is necessary before you pull the floor. It will help later as you put the puzzle back together again. Keep the old floor as reference until the shell goes back on as you can always reference to it for locations of outriggers, crossmembers etc.
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2011, 02:31 PM   #35
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
Chris, Thanks. You are correct on the notches. I think the real floor challenge will be getting the profile correct on the front, as most of the perimeter has been replaced. The rear plywood is mostly dust. I was also toying with replacing the double c channel, to eliminate having to match up the rivet holes on re-entry, but I am reading in the forums that there was a size change, and I don't want to re-engineer the floor. The rear c channel is also chewed up. I am going to try and source some close to Columbus, OH. I hear that the shipping costs are outrageous.
I will be diving into the frame examination this weekend, I am hoping for the best.
Maybe I should measure and cut the wood while the old wood is still on the frame???? Possibly minimize puzzleitis.
Bauxter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2011, 04:02 PM   #36
x
 
XXXX , XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
Mike Out Of Doors Mart sells the double C channel.
Channel Floor Molding 16ft Piece100986 [100986] - $44.95 : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone!

This will do for the sides but you'l have to make up C channel for the end caps from two pieces of aluminium angle butted together to make a channel. Then it will have to be notched to form the curves.
I marked and numbered all my sheets from front to back, noting curbside/ roadside/ top/bottom. Then once removed they could be set on top on the new plywood and used as templates to mark and cut the new sheets.
wasagachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 06:52 PM   #37
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
Starting On The Frame

I took advantage of the weather and worked on the AS this weekend. I was able to remove 4 of the 7 plywood floor sheets, starting in the front of the frame. I also removed the front belly pan, insulation, and fresh water tank.
So far, there are 2 cross-members and 5 outriggers needing replaced. I also tried to empty the fresh water tank, but can't seem to get all of the water out.

I only found 2 mouse carcasses, and assorted mouse snacks remnants. Better than expected.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF6148.JPG
Views:	161
Size:	615.5 KB
ID:	133951   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF6149.JPG
Views:	149
Size:	571.8 KB
ID:	133952  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF6152.JPG
Views:	129
Size:	575.4 KB
ID:	133953   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF6154.jpg
Views:	144
Size:	430.5 KB
ID:	133954  

Bauxter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 06:54 PM   #38
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
And now a picture of the fresh water tank

Keep or Toss? Assuming it doesn't leak.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF6153.JPG
Views:	122
Size:	552.4 KB
ID:	133956  
Bauxter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2011, 09:24 PM   #39
Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
 
Darkspeed's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel , Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
Images: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bauxter View Post
I took advantage of the weather and worked on the AS this weekend. I was able to remove 4 of the 7 plywood floor sheets, starting in the front of the frame. I also removed the front belly pan, insulation, and fresh water tank.
So far, there are 2 cross-members and 5 outriggers needing replaced. I also tried to empty the fresh water tank, but can't seem to get all of the water out.

I only found 2 mouse carcasses, and assorted mouse snacks remnants. Better than expected.

Bauxter looks great! Good job on the demo....
Darkspeed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2011, 06:04 PM   #40
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
Plywood is gone!

Got the rest of the plywood off today. I also found the mouse boneyard, and is too graphic for a family forum such as this, so I provided a simulation.

Having seen this, I thought of a new show....CSI-Disney.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF6158.JPG
Views:	126
Size:	489.0 KB
ID:	134043   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF6159.JPG
Views:	121
Size:	512.6 KB
ID:	134044  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF6165.JPG
Views:	124
Size:	475.7 KB
ID:	134045   Click image for larger version

Name:	dead_mouse.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	43.7 KB
ID:	134046  

Bauxter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2011, 06:21 PM   #41
Rivet Master
 
Minno's Avatar

 
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,494
Your water tank looks like ours did. That nice lovely green color! We attempted to clean ours and denture cleaning tablets were quite promising in my last experiment, so you could try it if you want (go with about 3 boxes of denture tabs to start). We ended up buying a new tank from Inland RV - just couldn't quite get around the gunk build up we could see inside. We drink our water so we do want a clean tank! The tank doesn't ever completely drain because of where the drain is at - in the side not the bottom of the tank. There's about a quarter inch or so of water that never drains. We plan on redoing the drain in our new tank so it drains out the bottom. Good luck wtih it!

Kay
Minno is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2011, 05:01 AM   #42
4 Rivet Member
 
Bauxter's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Columbus , Ohio
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 282
Images: 3
Tanks a lot

Kay, Did you buy the exact replacement, or some other configuration? If I could find a reasonably priced tank, that would fit in the space, I would probably jump on it, without a second thought. Since I am in the frame restoration/design phase, adding a gray tank would be a bonus, and the right time to attempt it. The location of the black tank also bothered me.

Decisions, decisions...
__________________

Bauxter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1973, 31', remodel, skin replacement, sovereign


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Restoring 1973 Sovereign Baton Rouge BWMorgan225 1970 - 1973 Sovereign 76 04-15-2014 05:55 AM
1973 Airstream Sovereign Land Yacht Southern California eBay Watch Airstreams on eBay 0 02-22-2011 12:40 PM
1973 Airstream Sovereign Land Yacht Southern California eBay Watch Airstreams on eBay 0 02-11-2011 09:10 PM
Towing 31' sovereign 1973 model Flaboy67 Tow Vehicles 1 02-04-2011 06:17 PM
Great 1973 Airstream Sovereign with screen room eBay Watch Airstreams on eBay 0 01-30-2011 06:50 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:58 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.