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Old 01-06-2016, 07:38 PM   #29
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1967 26' Overlander
Haute-Aboujagane , New Brunswick
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Love what you have done so far Wow! It is looking real good . I really like your sliding spice rack . You are giving me some great ideas for our Overlander reno . I really like that ikea fixture too . Your Ambassador will turn heads for sure !
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Old 01-07-2016, 05:49 AM   #30
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1967 28' Ambassador
1964 19' Globetrotter
1960 24' Tradewind
Edgewood , Kentucky
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Thanks for your reply chrisetmike! People like yourself are one of the reasons why I share my builds. I'll tell you the truth, my designer picked that light out and I thought she was crazy. @ first I didn't like it but it definitely grew on me quick. It serves as a more functional option, with the ability to direct the lighting wherever it is needed. Plus it is a LED system which is a must.

The spice rack was a simple and fun project. Few tips; lay both side peices down on top of each other. Create a jig to consecutively create the hole pattern. Straightness is key to making it look good. Then build your 3 sided pullout with the holes predrilled. Once that is finished l, insert the dhow rods into one end and run them wild through the other side. Then on the side that the dowel rods are flush (which you should make the front side) you can brad nail or glue the dowel in place. Do not secure both sides of the dowel rod, leave the backside unpinned or glued. Cut your dowels flush to the back side. By doing this the wood can expand and contract with the differences in climate. If you were to secure both sides the dowels would eventually warp or bend and you would lose the straightness of the rods. The back side will hide the expansion and contraction of these rods. I belt sanded my rods flush on the back side, a few days later some were pertruding and some were recessed, but the front remains intact and the rods are straight! Thanks again for following my build. .... Now back to work. .....
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Old 01-07-2016, 05:55 AM   #31
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1967 28' Ambassador
1964 19' Globetrotter
1960 24' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Opps, my bad! I must have had Overlanders on my mind for some reason. The Ambassador is the model Tim Shepard renewed in his book "Restoring a Dream", which is a fun read.

Ambassador

David
I forgive you David. .. simple mistake . I have seen that book sold on vendors websites, I've been curious about it but do not have the time to enjoy a good book. .... two kids under 4. I intend on reading it eventually. Thanks again everyone!
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:56 AM   #32
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Looking good!
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Old 01-11-2016, 12:52 PM   #33
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1967 28' Ambassador
1964 19' Globetrotter
1960 24' Tradewind
Edgewood , Kentucky
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Long week

Alright…

When it came to adding handles to the dinette area we decided to go with a recessed cup-like handle, special ordered. With the rough description about the handles dimensions online, I did not know what I was about to encounter. When received I was picking a hole saw to use for installation and to my surprise, the handle was too big for a 2 3/4” saw and too small for a 3” saw. I never could find a 2 7/8” saw to even try, may not even make them? So it was either a skillful jigsaw cut and some clever hand routing or let the CNC router do all the work…. That seems better. So I had an excuse to jump onto my new tool and create a cut to accept the handle and I took it a step further and created a pocket for the rim to seat into so the handle is exactly flush with the door. Over a half dozen tries and tweaks, I managed to create a cut that would work. I then simply repeated the process on every door that had this style handle. Overall it may have taken the same amount of time (due to design and trial) but not the same quality and repeat ability. The handles are just snugged into place until staining is finished. The dinette will receive the cap and trim this week before staining.

I bought a Coleman mach 15 ac unit. When picking one I was left with two shroud color options, black or white (both would not suffice). So we of course went custom. Had it primed and painted with a silver metallic flake enamel auto-body paint. Then clear-coated it with several coats to give it depth and durability to the harsh UV rays it will encounter. It will also be installed in the couple weeks to come.
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Old 01-11-2016, 01:05 PM   #34
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1967 28' Ambassador
1964 19' Globetrotter
1960 24' Tradewind
Edgewood , Kentucky
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Galley Area

I finished the upper cabinets (locker). One minor addition still needed are the props to hold the doors open. These will be added after staining. I installed the inside cabinet lighting, ran individually by each door. There is a push pin in the upper right-hand corner that activates the lights when the door is open. I also added simple dampers on the hinge side for accidental slamming. Once stained, each door will get a knob. I used ½ overlay self-closing hinges to help with keeping the doors closed. I seethed the underside with aluminum and trimmed underneath. The puck lighting is battery operated with 3 AA batteries. It can easily be removed via super magnet and used as a flashlight for easy convenience.

I also finished facing the lower cabinets and adding the doors. They are ready for staining also, then added knobs to finish it off. My Formica counter top was received today and will be installed later this week. Trim bezels for the appliances are still @ the chrome shop… Should be wrapped up shortly.
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Old 01-11-2016, 01:15 PM   #35
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1967 28' Ambassador
1964 19' Globetrotter
1960 24' Tradewind
Edgewood , Kentucky
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Thumbs up and more

As for the bathroom. We are pleased we went with the style we had picked. I was extremely weary of the WHITE subway tile 1/8” sheeting used for the walls. My designer told me to have faith. She bought a couple quarts of Rustoleum water-based latex silver metallic paint (that a mouthful). When the walls were coated with a few coats I fell in love. Good luck finding anything like this. Our initial approach was to purchase the subway tile sheeting in a grey or silver color. To our disappointment it was only found in dreaded white. We purchased it anyway with intentions to make what we wanted to begin with, silver subway tile! We still have to caulk the corners, build the cabinet, add a mirror, and set the toilet. We left the step up white so you can see the difference. It will eventually be torn up and capped with the flooring installed later. I love how the bathroom was laid out. Claustrophobia does not set in with this design. If you are wondering the shower is adjacent to the bathroom across the hall. We will share when the project is started.

We also received our kitchen faucet fixture. We tried to mimic the chandelier in the front end cap. My designer is in love with it....

One again we appreciate all of the support and recognition given, and please don’t forget to rate this thread in the top right corner of this page! Thanks again for reading!
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:27 PM   #36
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1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
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Those are great looking lockers you fabricated. Cabinet making is not my forte, but I see you are very good at it. I was at the RV show looking at new Airstreams. They are now using a nifty over center spring prop that looked very robust, better than my spring lift cylinders I have in the 86.

You are building a magnificent Ambassador.

David
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:54 AM   #37
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1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg , Virginia
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Artisan

I just stumbled across this thread. I am simply blown away and in awe of your skills. You are doing a lot of stuff that is outside the box and very creative. My compliments to you. Thanks for sharing with all of us.

I hope to see your Ambassador in person some time.

Dan
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:08 AM   #38
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1967 28' Ambassador
1964 19' Globetrotter
1960 24' Tradewind
Edgewood , Kentucky
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Soooo much to share!

I’ve got a lot of catching up to do with this thread so bear with me… When I left off last I did not have any of the bathroom cabinet finished, shower was not installed, rear bed was not complete, grill wasn’t finished, dinette or galley cabinets didn’t have any stain or hardware, breaks, bearings, shocks, tires still needed replaced, flooring install, window hardware, furnace, fridge, range, miles of trim and caulk… little daunting looking back at it, yes it is now mostly done. I will break it down one project at a time. Mind you we still have some rough edges and touch up in most of these pictures and by no means are these finish product quality yet...
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:23 AM   #39
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1967 28' Ambassador
1964 19' Globetrotter
1960 24' Tradewind
Edgewood , Kentucky
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 209
Bathroom

I’ll start with the bathroom (where I left off). We had to build a custom cabinet over the wheel well, also allowing the water & gas piping to go to the water heater cabinet. We cleverly used the space between the main cabinet and the water heater cabinet for a towel rack or magazine holder. While also adding a home your necessities. The flash water tank is hidden behind a slide out panel of the cabinet. There you can change your desired temperature and water flow based on the knob settings. You also have access to disconnect lines, winterize, or remove the shroud for servicing if need be. The CO exhaust is expelled out an exhaust chamber above the heater and baffled with aluminum. It then exits street side of the trailer, through forced ventilation covered by a 4 x 16-inch louvered vent. The fans create a combining 130 CFM of flow and is timer based controlled by a 12V programmable relay timer. I have it signaled to the 3v gas valve solenoid so it latches the relay kicking on the fans as soon as the valve is open. It will stay on while the valve is open. Once the valve shuts, the timer counts down 40 seconds then unlatches the relay. This prevents seepage of CO into the cabin by drawing the fumes completely out of the exhaust chamber for a longer time than it is lit. This also aids oxygen to the burner to prevent extinguishing. This add-on is a must to convert a “outdoor unit” to an indoor space. I can post pictures of this add-on if anyone desires. We topped it off with a Formica top and an aluminum trim. The main cabinet has underneath storage. It is wired with 4 120V receptacles mounted on the side. The sink bowl we went with is a 10” round sterling sink coupled with an exotic bathroom faucet fixture. It mimics the curves of an Airstream well I think. I used rubber p-traps for the drains for easier winterizing and reduced joint fatigue on the PVC fittings from road vibration. Also chrome shutoffs and steel braided sink lines. I went with the forum’s advice on the toilet and bought a Dometic, and I’m glad I did. Things still to finish would be some caulking around the ceiling, adding a mirror, shelf above the toilet, and toothbrush holder.
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:45 AM   #40
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1967 28' Ambassador
1964 19' Globetrotter
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Edgewood , Kentucky
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Galley kitchen

Now we will jump back to the galley area. Last update I left you on was when I had almost everything roughed in until my chroming guy let me down. The original cooktop, oven, and fridge parts came back with an under-par quality grade. Too much pitting. There should have been more prep work before hand with filler metals. I was then forced to re-plot the whole layout. This gave me the opportunity to install all new appliances, since I could not match old with new appliances well enough. I went with the standard 21” Atwood 3 burner range combo. Under the range I had just enough room to install a Suburban 30,00 BTU furnace and built a custom oak diffuser to vent out the face of the cabinets below the range. I chose a Dometic RM2551 2-way fridge to tuck beside the range next to the entry door. It would utilize the existing lower vent and access hatch but I had to create an upper vent with forced induction and a baffle. The louvered vent I used was 14” x 10”. The fans were triggered by a thermistor mounted to the cooling fins of the unit. When the chimney effect Isn’t enough to cool the unit the fans will kick on and aid the cooling process.
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:53 AM   #41
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1967 28' Ambassador
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The stain that was chosen was a Kona color and we applied 3 coats to every surface. We then protected it with 4 coats of a matte polyurethane finish. All hand brushed and sanded. Daunting task but worth the outcome. We found some unique knobs for the cabinets, pricey but we think it complements well. The back splash was a great appeal, and I love working with this product. It turned out to be really nice when it was finished. If you want to know the product's info just pm me and ill point you in the direction. I’ve got a lot more to share but I need to write it up still, stay tuned and I will post more in the next day.
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Old 04-11-2016, 10:47 AM   #42
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The shower

The shower was challenging. We designed the shower to utilize the door as both bedroom and shower door. It ended up being a 28” x 32” stand-in size. PVC shower liner was placed into the pan, wrapped around the threshold, and ran up the wall 24”. The walls were constructed out of .040” aluminum sanded down to prevent the “fun house” effect while showering. We then ran a vinyl product that mimics a quilted metal finish. Giving the bathroom wall a two-toned look gave it a unique finish, almost a softening feel. I created tabs on the curved pieces giving the ability to rivet the sides into it and making it rigid structure. We went with a tile floor that looks like a wood floor to draw the wooden accents into the mostly metal shower. It was grouted in with an onyx color epoxy grout. The walls were sealed with Secoflex and I used a marine gasket to seal the door closed, finished off by a rubber shower sweep at the bottom of the door and a frosted Plexiglas porthole window. I had to use a full length aluminum piano hinge to allow of dual closing of the door without a gap in the jams. We left 3 inches open above the shower door when closed to allow steam to escape and exhaust through the fan powered ceiling vent outside the shower door. The door latches with a ball bearing type latch and then another fancy bolt latch to seal it tight when then shower is in use. We went with a chromed delta diverter and fixture, accompanied by a hand-held shower head. We had to bump out the diverters plaque being that the diverter was intentionally designed for a standard 3 ½” think wall. A 7 watt LED light fixture is controlled by a motion sensor built into the shower wall that creates a hands-free lighting setup. After a minute of no motion, it deactivates the light. We then trimmed every corner with aluminum and fastened it with of course, rivets.
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