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Old 06-02-2012, 10:36 PM   #15
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OK folks, got the shell off today The Gantry's worked great!! I had no bracing what so ever, other than the 2x8 down the middle of the AS. It lifted straight up through the front and rear sky lights, and there was no flexing or bowing of the shell.

I did however, forget to take into account the extra weight of the door on one side. The whole thing swung to one side. Didn't hit the Gantry but gave me a scare... Used a ratchet strap around a gantry and the door frame to bring it level.

I also had to build some stem walls to put under the wall frames because my sides come down pass where the floor would be. I have four of those, 2 front and 2 rear. I also put a 2x4 form the ground to the 2x8 running down the middle, fornt and back. Also added some 1x4's accross the bottom of the stem walls to stop them from moving. Then went from the top of the 2x4 to the stem walls to stiffen it up while it sits on the ground. See pics. We do get some winds aroung here and a storm blew through right after I got the frame out. The dang thing was swaying and moving around.

Once I got the stem walls and bracing in it is really stable

So, I have ordered the por15 and water and waste tanks. Start pulling the decking tomorrow and start taking the rust of the frame. then put the new plywood down. I thought about going with 3/4 TG but realized that 1/8 in extra thickness would change to much stuff. So I stuck with the 5/8.

Going to get a gallon of bed liner to paint the bottom of the plywood with. Myth busters did a deal where they painted plywood with it and it would withstand a blast from C4. Plus it will water prof it and stop it from squeaking on the frame.

Wow a ton to do and a month and a half to get it done..
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May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:41 PM   #16
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Oh yeah, I used the tractor to pull the frame out, as it is more maneuverable than the truck or SUV. I love my tractor
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:01 PM   #17
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Wow, huge progress! Lookin good
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:55 PM   #18
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Started pulling the floor off.. Question? the bolts that hold it down are flat on the top and buried in the plywood. Spray on foam insulation underneath so getting to them from under is a problem. I have been grinding them out with a grinder. IS THERE A BETTER WAY OR IS THIS IT?
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:37 PM   #19
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A circular saw set just deeper than the wood, and then make plunge cuts around the bolt. I made a "triangle" set of cuts around each bolt... made fairly quick work of the floor coming out.

Once I had the wood out, then I used a bolt cutter to just snap them off. (looks like a giant pair of pruning shears).
Marc
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:49 PM   #20
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Wow, what a day. Needed some clouds to keep the sun off. Got all the decking off. Then pounded out the spray in foam insulation. That stuff makes a mess and is a pain..

I paid my two older kids a $1 each to pick up all the pieces. They did a pretty good job but left all the smaller pieces. and didn't want to do any more after they got all the big stuff up. So how do I pick up the little stuff in gravel. (well the unfreidly way is a weed burner and they just go away) sorry ozone.

To get the last of the foam off the frame I used my pressure washer which worked like a champ. Pretty much turned the foam to tiny little pieces. (just right for the weed burner) It also took a lot of the surface rust of, so there will be less work with the wire brush that goes in the grinder. That is what is next.

Also got the Gantry's over the frame so I can lift it and spin it.

Also, my Farther in law is coming Tue with his portable auto body frame puller. We are going to straighten the bend in the rear end, and then I will weld in some reinforcement. It drops about 2 inches or so form the rear axle to the rear bumper.
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:54 PM   #21
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Amazing!
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:10 AM   #22
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Maybe you can relate this to yours?

Drooping frame? At some point my '73 frame had been pinched multiple times on the bottom of the main ladder frame rail by someone either trying to lift the trailer through the sheet metal or trying to level the trailer from the hitch jack with the little aluminum stabilizer jack-stands already set - leaving behind a couple five/seven nice inch-plus jack-face divots behind, each with a larger length of pushed-in flange.

So looking at the frame and its droop, I got out a 15" crescent wrench dialed in thin to just grab the C-section frame metal and massaged the flanges back square and true - while the bumper was lifted/supported into a bit of opposite deflection... and I erased most of the droop by easing the 4 to 6-inch dents out, save for the actual stretched metal of the center contact, that got a little 'big' sheet metal dolly and hammer work.

I don't know if the first times using the trailer w/ full working load will allow the memory of the bend to return some droop back but sitting there clean and painted I did draw out at least two inches of sag... On the worst ones I restored the original 'square' angle plus a few 32nd's, but it was amazing what a few fold-pleats on the sheet steel will work out to in the long run.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:50 PM   #23
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So I bought this brush for my big grinder/polisher, that I bought at harbor freight for $40. I also have one that was $55.00. "Used them to polish the AS" It has variable speed and found a slower speed worked great for getting the rust off. I also have something for my 4" grinder to get into the frame.

Got most of it done today except inside the frame and cross members. Save that for when I get the frame lifted and tilted. That comes after we straighten the frame tomorrow.

Got the fresh and grey tanks ordered today. Hopefully the Por15 ships tomorrow, so I can spray at the end of the week..
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:53 PM   #24
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Today we got the frame STRAIGHT It was down a few inches in the back. Farther in law brought his frame puller over.
We tied the frame to the front of it in front of the wheels and behind the wheels. Then put a jack on the frame puller and pushed up on the trailer frame till it came back level. No to get the steel to reinforce it, as I want to put a bike rack on the back..

We also got the back bumper straightened out. SO I can keep that too...
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May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

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Old 06-05-2012, 10:05 PM   #25
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So I was hoping to spay the por15 this weekend and put the floor on Monday. Well the por15 won't be here till tue. It will give me time to get everything ready and perfect I guess.
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:27 PM   #26
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Not much happened today. I picked up the steel I had bent to go inside the frame for the rear to reinforce it, and the angle iron for holding the water and grey tanks under the belly.
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:59 PM   #27
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So, I am re-enforcing the frame, some may not agree with what I am doing but I am doing it for two reasons.

First it had a 3 inch sag in the back and to get it back to level we had to really lift it up. So this weakened the frame some. and there were cracks in the frame on the top and bottom on one side.

Two I want to put a bike rack on the back.. need it stiffer.

This is what I did.

I had some 3/16 steel bent so there was 1 3/4 on the top and 4 1/4 on the side, this gave me a little bit extra on the top. I put it in the frame as I didn't want to mess with the hight of the floor as mentioned above in a previous post.

I welded the whole top and tacked the side. You can also see the angle iron I put on a few years ago to stop the flex. Don't think it did much good.

It goes from between the wheels to the last cross member you can see in the picture. It really helps stiffen up the rear end. mine to, lots of bending

One side is done. It's hard to weld with 2 year old twins running around out side. So I only get to do during their 1.5 hour nap. Hope to finish it this weekend. Also get it all prepped for the por15 that comes tue. Then next weekend I can get the frame back under the shell.
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:32 PM   #28
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Lookin good!
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