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Old 03-21-2005, 07:24 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by TomW
Umm, be careful with that idea - Dissimilar metal corrosion. The aluminum skin and/or rivets may not like the idea.
Discussion is welcome - I recall there is at least one ChemE in Michigan who checks the forums on occasion.
Tom:

I agree with what you are saying about dissimilar metals...but....

Practically all AS's have a "Steel Plate" in the nose...usually no corrosion around it - appears to be regular mild steel.


Not proposing or disuading use of dissimilar metals - I would suppose the presence (or lack) of moisture would have a lot to do with the rate of corrosion - I was surprised to find out that the factory used a steel plate as a strengthening gusset in this location.
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Old 03-21-2005, 09:34 PM   #16
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Ted,

Found many of the same problems in mine
. To start with, I found lights exactly like mine at Wally World, if you want to re-install those. They were about $2.60 each.

Drill bits. Went through several, no, many. Buy the carbide, they last longer and give a truer cut into the pop rivets. I have found several small leaks all over the TT that I have to deal with. One big leak was in the center front running light just above “Airstrea(m)”. This is what caused all of the damage in the street side radius area on the floor plywood. I also have a small leak just above the door from a pop rivet that leaks. The weird part is that rivet holds nothing in place. It must have been put there because of a hole in the outer shell at the factory. Other small leaks include the Vulkem on the upper door hinge, the center vent Vulkem, the vent for the fridge in the Vulkem (all Vulkem leaks are small/slow drips).

Lots of makers marks inside the walls. One appears to mark the time of the afternoon break period for the worker bees (3:00-3:15). Another is just a series of letters with an arrow pointing to nothing. Some are alignment marks for the proper fitting of ribs/spars. Weird.

Dissimilar metals. All that I have read agrees with what the other guys say here; don’t mix and match metals. But I see no corrosion in the front gusset area of my trailer, but I do have a small leak there. It may be that the steel gusset is coated with something to keep it from reacting to the aluminum.



Good luck. I’m almost to the point of beginning to repair/replace things. I’ve spent the winter taking things apart (my entire interior had to come out). I’m ready to fix something and get on the road to “getting on the road” rather than just spending time in the cold back yard!

Jim

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Old 03-24-2005, 07:46 PM   #17
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Well the ceiling is down...
The only way to describe removing the ceiling is it SUCKED.

I have to say that the shell is getting very flimsy now that the inner skin is out. There is all kinds of things in the ceiling that I did not expect. There are sheets of bare aluminum all along the roof line. Yea more rivet drilling.........

I will add photos of the interior with out the skin tomorrow after noon. I may just add a extra rib just behind the AC unit for support.
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Old 03-24-2005, 07:59 PM   #18
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till.

And so it began.

And now, it will never end.

Why?

Cause your hooked. That dreaded aluminumitis has you head to toe.

But, not to fear. Most of your progress will be , and some of it will be.

But in the end, you will travel and enjoy the fruits of your work, and with the help of a few.

You can't turn back now, it's way too late.

Andy
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Old 03-29-2005, 06:56 PM   #19
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Well I have 99% of the interior out. I have left a couple of skin sections in so I can keep the electricity on. No more dents Yea but I have a few creases. From the search I have done, it seems that this is more of a cosmetic thing then a structural issue. Most of the solutions I see run down two lines.
1. Is to replace the segments that are affected. = $$$$$
2. Is to work the crease too minimize the appearance and live with it.

On the 2nd method how the heck can I do this with all the undercoating on the end cap?!?!!? I would like to give it a go, so I'm thinking something like a roller ball to work it.

PS I have found many, many popped rivets so I will have to repair these before I can continue the shell off process. I want the shell as strong as it can be before it is free of the frame.
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Old 03-29-2005, 07:08 PM   #20
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Getting ready to take "The Big Twinkie" to the RV doctor for a systems check, new connector and new shocks.
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Old 03-29-2005, 08:12 PM   #21
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dent removal?

Hey Tedd - how did you get rid of your dents? I have two fairly large ones I'd like to work on...one looks like it could be popped, the other...not sure it ends in a horizontal linear crease......
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Old 03-31-2005, 09:53 PM   #22
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My dent removal style is poor at best. I have the interior out, so I just found the dent on the inside and give it a wack hence I have some creases. The better way is to slowly apply pressure from the outter edges (from the inside) and work it till it pops.

Sorry for the dely inanswering, but OVER TIME ( for the first time in 5 years) sprang up and I could not say no. 13 hour days till Friday.......... ZZZzzzzzz
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Old 03-31-2005, 10:52 PM   #23
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Hey there Tedd! Thanks for the dent massaging info...it'll take awhile 'til I get to the dents anyway. Just picked up a nice set of DeWalt cordless powertools from Costco yesterday and now I'm aching to start really getting that bathroom out of there....yeeehaaaa! Have a nice rest - it's bedtime here too!
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Old 04-01-2005, 06:51 PM   #24
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Glad to be of some help. They let me out early today.

Question to the masses.
With the bucked rivets that have popped, should I buck new ones, or just put in pop rivets for now and go back after the shell is back on and buck in new ones?? (I will replace all the pop/popped rivets I can with bucked ones during this project.)
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Old 04-02-2005, 04:16 PM   #25
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yucky fiberglass

Today is a cleaning day, Three trash bags of insulation on the curb and one full trash can. I still have a little left in the walls and ceiling. I have found many repairs that need to be done. The list seems to grow every time I go out and clean the inside of the trailer. It looks like I will have to tear apart the Overlander (Shell Shock) sooner then I thought. The list of interior bracing parts is at three ceiling braces (under the AC) a few feet of u-channel to attach the shell to the frame and now it looks like a rib . The rib that is on the street side just aft the door had been tweaked. I have seen a way to splice a rib in the sections of a 1978 manual I have, any thoughts on this??
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Old 04-04-2005, 05:46 PM   #26
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I see I'm talking to myself.
Today I installed a new gasket on the front window. Wow is that "swamp snot" some nasty, sticky stuff. I see why it is used, that stuff will stick to anything and not let go easy. I need to really scrub to get it off my hands.

I will be bucking in new rivets over the next few weeks to get the shell back up to snuff. I will have to finish AC removal first.....

And the list goes on....
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Old 04-04-2005, 06:14 PM   #27
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Tedd,

We are all watching, we just don't want to offer a hearty distraction. We want you to be able to join a rally somewhere or camp out in it this summer. If we keep bugging you, you'll never get it done!

I can say from experience that many may not chime in but are keeping up to date on your project. Keep plugging away at
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Old 04-04-2005, 06:16 PM   #28
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Yep, I'm watching too! (and learning...)
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