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Old 06-10-2015, 04:25 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
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Mission , Texas
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1975 Overlander 27' new to us

Hello,

We think we have bought a new to us 1975 Overlander 27'. We won't know for sure until we pick it up this Saturday.

I've had a couple of 5th wheels in the past so RVs generally aren't new to me. Learning the particulars of an Airstream, thanks everyone on this forum - I'll continue reading and maybe post some photos (my guess is it needs more work than the current owner understands). In former lives I repaired an air defense missile system, built houses, made cabinets/furniture, and repaired hospitals, etc. - currently "retired" from all of that excitement.

This is all new to the better half, so she gets to learn a lot as we get it road and full timer worthy.

We found the trailer in the ad section of this forum in Boulder CO, about 4 hours driving from where we're currently located.

Best wishes!
Iris and Gerald
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Old 06-10-2015, 05:31 PM   #2
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1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
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Good luck, welcome to the family, and definitely post pics when you get her home! We all LOVE pics on the forums....

Kay
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Old 06-16-2015, 11:43 AM   #3
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Trailer home safe!

Immediately it needs a tongue jack, curb side front window and brake breakaway switch.

I found the parts no problem.

However the breakaway switch connection alludes me as I see no wires from the original (there literally is no breakaway switch at all). Any help appreciated.

Thanks beforehand!
Gerald and Iris
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Old 06-16-2015, 02:52 PM   #4
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1976 27' Overlander
Delta , British Columbia
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Breakaway

On my 76 Overlander which has a power tongue jack the breakaway is connected to a 12V feed line (same one as the power jack), then the other end goes to a wire that is tucked up inside the tongue frame. I thought it was blue but its kind of hard to tell.

The wire both are tucked in the frame.
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:15 AM   #5
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Thanks! Makes sense ...

It included a (supposedly non functional) electric tongue jack that had been removed (replacing it with a manual side winder). Two wires are there hiding in the channel, I'll verify what they do later. The larger one is likely hot (for both jack and switch), the smaller likely to the brakes.
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Old 06-17-2015, 10:38 PM   #6
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Electric works now. Battery needed servicing, put in box correctly, removed some strange PO stuff and repaired the umbilical cord.

Tried to pressurize the plumbing system with air to check for leaks. Either I messed some winterizing points, or there is cracked copper. The hiss was generally from the shower valve direction (ugg), and there was gurgling elsewhere - so whoever thought they were winterizing it maybe didn't get it all and some lines split.

Tomorrow ...
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Old 06-17-2015, 10:43 PM   #7
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Where the city water comes in street side bumper, inside is that a pressure regulator? What water pressure is recommended? I couldn't find anything in the owners manual.

Also, is the shop manual useful?
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Old 06-18-2015, 02:54 AM   #8
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1975 27' Overlander
Twin Cities , Minnesota
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Welcome to another 75 OL owner. Did you get the center or rear bath? Mine is rear. As for the split copper, go to PEX. Buy the tool at Home Despot and make your life much easier.
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Old 06-19-2015, 07:38 AM   #9
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Hi,

Rear bath ...

Chances are good all of the plumbing to include the water heater has problems. More checks today.

As a stationary engineer working maintenance in a hospital there was a saying about most people in hospital maintenance - some are mechanics and others are nice guys with tools.

My guess is the the POs of this rig were nice guys with tools.
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Old 06-19-2015, 09:38 AM   #10
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
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Welcome ot the Forums.

The key is managing expectations. You have a 40 year old trailer, and it is likely that you will find many, many age related issues as you get familiar with the trailer. You might want to download the "buyer's inspection checklist" from the Portal tab, and just go through your trailer from end to end using the list. This will give you a to-do list and a systematic way to get all the surprises out of the way up front.

Good luck!
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Old 06-19-2015, 10:08 AM   #11
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1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
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Expect stuff not to work and even if it is currently working to probably break down the line. The old copper plumbing and an equally old water heater will probably need to be replaced sometime. If I were you, unless you are already planning on doing a full gut and restore, I would just fix the stuff that breaks till you get a feel for what you want this rig to be. Some folks like the 70's vibe, others want it all changed. How it works for you wont become apparent till you use it a bit.
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Old 06-19-2015, 10:15 AM   #12
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1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix , Arizona
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Check the switch(es) before you toss out the tongue jack. And you will - trust me on this - be drawing heavily on all of your hard-earned knowledge to work on your new toy.

Remember, it's a journey to be enjoyed, not a destination to be arrived at.
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Old 06-19-2015, 10:34 AM   #13
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1976 31' Sovereign
Portage , Indiana
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Took our '76 31' LY on it's maiden voyage this past weekend. Learning what need fixing. 1st thing is window leaks. Any advice on what kind of window caulk/ sealant to use? This forum rocks! Learning so much helpful information.
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Old 06-19-2015, 07:35 PM   #14
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Thanks for welcomes ...

Looked under the center bed ... eeep! Plastic hose and hose clamps replacing various bits of copper - and found more (new/recent) split copper. So I looked for receipts for past work - PO spent >$2,000 over the course of a year on leaks alone by another nice guy with tools.

I can replace all of the plumbing (check valve, regulator with gauge and faucets) with PEX for roughly $500. In hospital maintenace I've seen gas water heaters more than 50 years old. This one is from 1994, holds pressure and drains clear, so it's probably got a few good years left.

Wife wants to help so she can learn a little plumbing ... tear out the old this weekend.

She's the beautification manager and is only interested in functional quality - not so much restore to original condition or drastic remodel.

Leaky windows? First thing I would check is how it closes. Most of mine are slightly off, to include the entry door and access doors. New gasket material is available.
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Old 06-19-2015, 07:46 PM   #15
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No comments about the shop manual ... so I'll take it that it's good for collectors.

Without taking up the floor, it looks like there are five lines going to the fresh water tank.
1) Fill
2) Vent for fill
3) Drain (valved)
4,5) Both valved not sure what they do - comments?
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:49 AM   #16
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1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
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the best help you're going to get is when you post pictures. if you check my blog you'll see a lot of the stuff is the same from a 75 to a 73 Overlander. Hth.
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Old 06-20-2015, 06:09 AM   #17
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1966 22' Safari
Hilltop Lakes , Texas
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To water pump?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nrgtrakr View Post
No comments about the shop manual ... so I'll take it that it's good for collectors.

Without taking up the floor, it looks like there are five lines going to the fresh water tank.
1) Fill
2) Vent for fill
3) Drain (valved)
4,5) Both valved not sure what they do - comments?
One of those lines from the fresh water tank has to connect to the water pump.
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Old 06-20-2015, 08:11 PM   #18
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Fotos someday ...

The two valved lines were actually drains for pump and midship lines.

Yes there is yet another line to the tank for pump hookup.

Not sure if the POs followed the winterizing instructions, but with the dips and strange flat spots I can see why some people fill them with antifreeze.

Another oddity ... the power cord (not original) goes under the subfloor then up to the breaker box (also not original) with about 16" of extra cord flopping around in the trunk.

I thought >100 year old hospitals, and steam systems that had never seen a stationary engineer were fun to work on. This baby is sweet.
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Old 06-20-2015, 08:13 PM   #19
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How do you post fotos?
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:51 PM   #20
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I think I've figured out photos ... usually here on a smart phone, but currently using a tablet. So maybe some photos tomorrow.

In the meantime more silly questions.

How to know what hubs/brakes you have before opening them up so you can have seals on hand for the repacking? Use a Quija board? Or open them up and put them back while awaiting parts?

Anyone move the gas tanks slightly to accomodate a spare tire and care to share a photo?

Anyone have photos of an original frame for the front gaucho? This one has been butchered.

Photos of the cabinets opposite of the center twin bed would also be nice (butcher gone mad).

Hints for eliminating a mouse population appreciated. These are city mice (I live in the country and they are slightly different) and I have not found any entrances. The PO kept dog food where the above mentioned cabinets were (no food source currently available). Traps net 1-2 mice daily since bringing it home.
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