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Old 07-29-2014, 10:40 PM   #1
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 74
Second life for a '72 Overlander

My wife and I bought a derelict '72 Overlander out of a field about two months ago. We've spread some questions around on the forums and received some great advice. We had meant to take the time and start a single thread to follow the progress before asking detailed questions, but never had the time. So, time to come clean, and ask the questions, and make it all pretty later.

I hope you'll all forgive me.

"O-Shiny" (who isn't yet) is in pretty bad shape. We've cleaned her out, and then gutted her. Now I've got the clearcoat stripped, all the interior aluminum off, the belly pan off, and the completely rotted back floor panel removed.

The frame is badly damaged, and needs a fair bit of work, so this will be a full monty. And it's time to monty.

So here is my current question: what is the order of operations here, to ensure that I can put her back together? Let me propose some steps, and I'll await the input of those more sage than me.

1) Buy a replacement plywood board for the back of the trailer. Slide it in under the frame, and trace the outline of the C channel on it, to preserve the current shape. I understand that the trace will be too big by the thickness of the C channel, but it's the best I have.

2) Put a 1X2 boxed X support lattice attached to the ribs, to provide some structural anti-flex support.


3) Finish drilling out the few remaining C channel rivets that dropping the belly pan didn't get, and remove the rivets from teh ribs to the C channel.

4) using a gantry and two chain hoists, lift the shell off the floor/chassis, remove the jack stands, and pull the chassis out.

5) ever-so-lovingly set the shell down on the flat concrete pad.

6) remove the remaining elevator bolts from the floor/chassis.

7) remove the floor.

8) send the chassis out for repair/replacement.

9) one by one, starting at the rear, remove the floor sections from the C channel, use them as a template to cut a new panel, and attach them and the freed C chanell pieces to the new floor.

10) Get back the chassis, and re-install the new floor.

11) replace the shell onto the new floor, rivet in the ribs.

12) finish the small matter of the interior, plumbing, electrical, inner skin, blah blah blah...

I'd like to get the shell back on before the real rains come in October, so it's a race.

What am I doing wrong due to my ignorance?
Thanks for any help!
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:05 AM   #2
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Newport , North Carolina
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digidad sounds like a man with a plan but for the floor template i would suggest using 62overlandes method which you can get from his blog site frankstrailerworks.com i think! then take lots of pictures which i hope that you have been doing! the rest sounds secure to almost overly so! Please keep us posted and enjoy!
cliff
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:42 AM   #3
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1972 27' Overlander
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Two more pre-lift questions:

And if you've read this far, two more questions:

1) what are the pros and cons of removing the endcaps before I lift the skin? I was thinking that they would add stability, but maybe it's better to just get everything out now.

2) what can I use to get rid of the black goo that was used to hold in the pink insulation? If I'm going to power wash the inside, I figure it's better to do that on the old floor.

thanks!
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:50 AM   #4
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
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RM66, thanks for the suggestions. I can't find the blog over at Frank's website (but there are some great photos of his work!), and my rudimentory undertanding of the search function hasn't turned up a user "68overland". What am I missing?
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Old 07-30-2014, 03:11 PM   #5
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62overlander I was tired when I wrote it sorry.
Cliff


Yes I said that! Or did I?
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Old 07-30-2014, 03:39 PM   #6
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1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
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You are doing great. Frank's blog talks about the importance of getting both the front and rear C channel to floor curve traced and recorded before you lift the shell. He makes Luan templates on the inside of the trailer and adds the thickness of the c-channel. The left side and the right side of your trailer may very well be a different curve.

You are well on your way to a full monte renovation of O Shiny. Keep us posted on your progress.

David
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:16 PM   #7
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Somewhere before step 10 you should find and fix all leaks in the shell and replace all door and window gaskets. You want a watertight shell over your new floor. As for the end caps, you might as well take those out now. I'm guessing the black goo is just tar and not worth the effort required to remove it. Any solvent that will dissolve it will most likely dissolve the sealer at the skin joints making more work.
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:20 PM   #8
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1972 27' Overlander
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Found the recommended blog (I think): Anna Lumanum

Haven't found the entries on the luan templates yet, but I'm still in '08. :-}
But your comment confuses me... How can I make a template with the old floor still in, the shell on, and the floor bolted to what's left of the chassis? I'm missing something major. Since five of the six floor panels are in fair to decent shape, I assumed I could just use them as the templates. Or do you all just mean that I should do that on the back panel space?


The problem with the goo is that it's holding on to the pink-itch-inducer-from-hell remnants. I *HATE* that stuff.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:20 PM   #9
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I'm hoping the power washer will take care of the pink itch inducer from hell remnants in my trailer so I can finally work in there without a protective mask. It's awful how much of that insulation gets airborne.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:16 PM   #10
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1972 27' Overlander
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Having just replaced the rear four feet of my 72 Overlander - the rear sections were too far gone to save. I'd say Franks method is the best way to do it. Unfortunately I was already note other side of my mess when I learned of his luan method. I stuffed luan in between the new frame and skin and made a template. Still had lots of shaving to do before I my floor fit just right. If I did it again, I'd build the jig that Frank has.


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Old 07-30-2014, 08:19 PM   #11
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
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I finished tearing out the one little piece of the back floor panel. I got sick and tired of trying to cut/hack/snip the elevator bolts, so I took a hole saw, removed the center mandrel, and drilled about 1/8 of an inch less than all the way through. After that, a sharp tug and up came the floor.

Bolt cutters and a cold chisel made short-ish work of what was left of the bolts holding down the hold-down plate in the back. Turns out that despite the rear end having completely rotted away (there was no black tank holder left), I *didn't* have rear end separation. Until now...

Starting taking the end caps off, but had to stop because of the rain.

rain?
In California, in July? WTF?

It does make a really neat sound against the roof, however. :-}
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:21 PM   #12
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1972 27' Overlander
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Dave, can you point me to the template? I'm hunting around frank's stuff, but I haven't come across the right posting yet.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:46 PM   #13
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Hello Digidad! I'm also undertaking the same process on my '70 Sovereign so I can relate to your excitement. I just got her shell up off the frame and gave it a complete power washing while it hung from the gantries. The black goop doesn't completely come off, but all the insulation stuck to it will. Oh, and I'll give you a little heads up...

Every once in awhile when you look at what you've accomplished, but think about what still needs to be done, you'll have the overwhelming thought of, "what have I gotten myself into??"
That's ok, just ignore it and get on the forum and find someone that went through it already to get some more ideas. It's actually quite therapeutic.

I look forward to seeing your progress!
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:23 AM   #14
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1972 27' Overlander
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Dr. Chris, thanks for the encouragement.

Scary, but I'm still having a blast. I swear a lot, and sweat a lot, but having a great time. Part of it is having a big, long-term project that both my wife and I are enjoying, part of it is doing something physical, that has tangible results. (Work is mostly computers.)

My big fear is that my enthusiasm will out pace my knowledge, and I'll do something that makes it impossible to put back together.
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Old 07-31-2014, 01:45 PM   #15
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Hi Digidad. Here is the web address to Frank's Blog. I'm not sure it is a click on link. If you search his blog for "floor template", this section comes up. Frank seems to be one of these New England craftsman that strives for perfection. His restorations look great.

Frank's Trailer Works Blog: Search results for floor template


I replaced my rotted rear bath floor in my 66 Trade Wind. My black tank was falling out too. I did not remove the shell. Only the last 2 feet were rotted. I made a template from 1/4 plywood by slipping it under the shell and tracing the C channel. I decided to replace this rear section of floor in three pieces. Two curved sections from the frame rails out, and the larger center section between the frame rails. Since the frame rails are 1 1/2 wide, I felt I had ample support for the floor. I did add an angle iron support under the floor since the rear floor section is almost a 4 foot section.

It was a battle getting the floor sections driven under the C channel, but with a big enough hammer it finally went. I sure understand what Frank is talking about in terms of accurately having a template to match the C channel.

Hope this helps,

David
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Old 07-31-2014, 02:33 PM   #16
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Digidad...If you are going to lift the shell why not trace your curves after the deck is on? My front and rear pieces were so bad that I couldn't salvage anything for a template. I figured I'd just put my decking on but leave the front and rear whole and unfastened. Then lower the shell on the deck, get it positioned, trace the two curves then lift the shell back up and cut my pieces. A few extra steps, but if the shell is off and in the gantries it shouldn't be too hard. Just a thought.
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Old 07-31-2014, 02:37 PM   #17
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1972 27' Overlander
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David, thanks *very* much for the pointer. I had only made it through 2009 on his blog, so it would have taken me quite awhile.

It makes perfect sense, now that I see it. Off to Home Despot to get Luan...
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Old 07-31-2014, 02:45 PM   #18
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1972 27' Overlander
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Chris, not sure I follow you. "Trace your curves after the deck is on."

I can certainly make the Frank-ish templates for the front five panels, and will do so, but the back panel is gonna be a bear, since there's nothing left. I'm thinking (this hour) taking a full luan sheet, and sliding it under the C-channel and abut the 5th panel. Mark and drill the two main holddown bolts in the two rear corners, and then put a holding bolt through the C, the luan, and the frame. Then trace the C-channel edge (both inner and outer), and go from there.

Or am I woozy from heat and excitement?
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:28 PM   #19
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1970 31' Sovereign
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Would it not be possible to install all of the decking on the bare frame, but don't cut the radius on the front and rear pieces. Then lower the shell onto the rectangular deck. Then trace the actual front and rear of the shell on the deck. Lift and cut.
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:35 PM   #20
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1972 27' Overlander
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Good thing I'm cute...

Chris,
Um, duh, yeah, that would work.

Especially since the C-channel is coming along with the shell, back there. It's not quite as simple as it would be on an earlier AS, since the C curves around and under the panel, but it still makes the most sense.

This is why I ask - people brighter than I have already thought this through.
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