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Old 07-29-2014, 11:40 PM   #1
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 42
Second life for a '72 Overlander

My wife and I bought a derelict '72 Overlander out of a field about two months ago. We've spread some questions around on the forums and received some great advice. We had meant to take the time and start a single thread to follow the progress before asking detailed questions, but never had the time. So, time to come clean, and ask the questions, and make it all pretty later.

I hope you'll all forgive me.

"O-Shiny" (who isn't yet) is in pretty bad shape. We've cleaned her out, and then gutted her. Now I've got the clearcoat stripped, all the interior aluminum off, the belly pan off, and the completely rotted back floor panel removed.

The frame is badly damaged, and needs a fair bit of work, so this will be a full monty. And it's time to monty.

So here is my current question: what is the order of operations here, to ensure that I can put her back together? Let me propose some steps, and I'll await the input of those more sage than me.

1) Buy a replacement plywood board for the back of the trailer. Slide it in under the frame, and trace the outline of the C channel on it, to preserve the current shape. I understand that the trace will be too big by the thickness of the C channel, but it's the best I have.

2) Put a 1X2 boxed X support lattice attached to the ribs, to provide some structural anti-flex support.


3) Finish drilling out the few remaining C channel rivets that dropping the belly pan didn't get, and remove the rivets from teh ribs to the C channel.

4) using a gantry and two chain hoists, lift the shell off the floor/chassis, remove the jack stands, and pull the chassis out.

5) ever-so-lovingly set the shell down on the flat concrete pad.

6) remove the remaining elevator bolts from the floor/chassis.

7) remove the floor.

8) send the chassis out for repair/replacement.

9) one by one, starting at the rear, remove the floor sections from the C channel, use them as a template to cut a new panel, and attach them and the freed C chanell pieces to the new floor.

10) Get back the chassis, and re-install the new floor.

11) replace the shell onto the new floor, rivet in the ribs.

12) finish the small matter of the interior, plumbing, electrical, inner skin, blah blah blah...

I'd like to get the shell back on before the real rains come in October, so it's a race.

What am I doing wrong due to my ignorance?
Thanks for any help!
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:05 AM   #2
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1966 17' Caravel
Newport , North Carolina
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digidad sounds like a man with a plan but for the floor template i would suggest using 62overlandes method which you can get from his blog site frankstrailerworks.com i think! then take lots of pictures which i hope that you have been doing! the rest sounds secure to almost overly so! Please keep us posted and enjoy!
cliff
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Old 07-30-2014, 12:42 PM   #3
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
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Two more pre-lift questions:

And if you've read this far, two more questions:

1) what are the pros and cons of removing the endcaps before I lift the skin? I was thinking that they would add stability, but maybe it's better to just get everything out now.

2) what can I use to get rid of the black goo that was used to hold in the pink insulation? If I'm going to power wash the inside, I figure it's better to do that on the old floor.

thanks!
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Old 07-30-2014, 12:50 PM   #4
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
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RM66, thanks for the suggestions. I can't find the blog over at Frank's website (but there are some great photos of his work!), and my rudimentory undertanding of the search function hasn't turned up a user "68overland". What am I missing?
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:11 PM   #5
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62overlander I was tired when I wrote it sorry.
Cliff


Yes I said that! Or did I?
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:39 PM   #6
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1966 24' Tradewind
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You are doing great. Frank's blog talks about the importance of getting both the front and rear C channel to floor curve traced and recorded before you lift the shell. He makes Luan templates on the inside of the trailer and adds the thickness of the c-channel. The left side and the right side of your trailer may very well be a different curve.

You are well on your way to a full monte renovation of O Shiny. Keep us posted on your progress.

David
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:16 PM   #7
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1967 26' Overlander
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Somewhere before step 10 you should find and fix all leaks in the shell and replace all door and window gaskets. You want a watertight shell over your new floor. As for the end caps, you might as well take those out now. I'm guessing the black goo is just tar and not worth the effort required to remove it. Any solvent that will dissolve it will most likely dissolve the sealer at the skin joints making more work.
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:20 PM   #8
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
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Found the recommended blog (I think): Anna Lumanum

Haven't found the entries on the luan templates yet, but I'm still in '08. :-}
But your comment confuses me... How can I make a template with the old floor still in, the shell on, and the floor bolted to what's left of the chassis? I'm missing something major. Since five of the six floor panels are in fair to decent shape, I assumed I could just use them as the templates. Or do you all just mean that I should do that on the back panel space?


The problem with the goo is that it's holding on to the pink-itch-inducer-from-hell remnants. I *HATE* that stuff.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:20 PM   #9
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I'm hoping the power washer will take care of the pink itch inducer from hell remnants in my trailer so I can finally work in there without a protective mask. It's awful how much of that insulation gets airborne.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:16 PM   #10
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Denver , North Carolina
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Having just replaced the rear four feet of my 72 Overlander - the rear sections were too far gone to save. I'd say Franks method is the best way to do it. Unfortunately I was already note other side of my mess when I learned of his luan method. I stuffed luan in between the new frame and skin and made a template. Still had lots of shaving to do before I my floor fit just right. If I did it again, I'd build the jig that Frank has.


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Old 07-30-2014, 09:19 PM   #11
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
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I finished tearing out the one little piece of the back floor panel. I got sick and tired of trying to cut/hack/snip the elevator bolts, so I took a hole saw, removed the center mandrel, and drilled about 1/8 of an inch less than all the way through. After that, a sharp tug and up came the floor.

Bolt cutters and a cold chisel made short-ish work of what was left of the bolts holding down the hold-down plate in the back. Turns out that despite the rear end having completely rotted away (there was no black tank holder left), I *didn't* have rear end separation. Until now...

Starting taking the end caps off, but had to stop because of the rain.

rain?
In California, in July? WTF?

It does make a really neat sound against the roof, however. :-}
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:21 PM   #12
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1972 27' Overlander
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Dave, can you point me to the template? I'm hunting around frank's stuff, but I haven't come across the right posting yet.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:46 PM   #13
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1970 31' Sovereign
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Hello Digidad! I'm also undertaking the same process on my '70 Sovereign so I can relate to your excitement. I just got her shell up off the frame and gave it a complete power washing while it hung from the gantries. The black goop doesn't completely come off, but all the insulation stuck to it will. Oh, and I'll give you a little heads up...

Every once in awhile when you look at what you've accomplished, but think about what still needs to be done, you'll have the overwhelming thought of, "what have I gotten myself into??"
That's ok, just ignore it and get on the forum and find someone that went through it already to get some more ideas. It's actually quite therapeutic.

I look forward to seeing your progress!
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:23 AM   #14
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Dr. Chris, thanks for the encouragement.

Scary, but I'm still having a blast. I swear a lot, and sweat a lot, but having a great time. Part of it is having a big, long-term project that both my wife and I are enjoying, part of it is doing something physical, that has tangible results. (Work is mostly computers.)

My big fear is that my enthusiasm will out pace my knowledge, and I'll do something that makes it impossible to put back together.
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