Just got a 1966

[ALANSD]

Great weather here! Low 80s no humidity. Got the tongue sanded and refinished, also the entry step sanded and primed to finish tomorrow. Next the rear bumper area will be done.

Found just a few rivets missing underneath, so I redid those.
Got the old tv and radio off, the brackets were rusty and it looks cleaner without those.
Starting to look a lot better after only a week ion my driveway.

Also checked to see if the somewhat pocked finish is clear coated, and thankfully it is..so I can strip that mess off.
A productive and fun weekend. Now off to a wedding.

[Ronald D]

Alan,

I have a lock like that on my '65. Local locksmith cannot find key blanks for it. Does anyone out there have key blanks?

[ALANSD]

my other lock has the same style blanks, and I need one for that, I will let you know if I am able to find any.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by ALANSD

This came with my 66, but is not mounted. It has a round bargman door lock assembly on it now. It is a pretty cool lock.

That lock was made by Bargmann, especially for Airstream, to be used on the 69 an up models.

However, if was a cheapened down version of the L-100 special, and turned out be be something far less than desireable.

Most of them failed within a years time.

Part of it's problems were that it stuck out away from the door, the same way all the 69 access door locks did, and found a way to snag on most everything. They were all a serious pain in the neck, especially with the extreme failure rate.

Observe most 69 trailers and you will notice that the entrance door lock does not have the Airstream handle on it, nor do the access compart door locks have the original "T" handle.

Without a doubt, the best place that lock can be used, is on a "SHELF" as a memento of the past.

As I recall, it sold for something far less than $20.00.

However, the KT lock used from 70 to 77, originally sold for $22.50. Today, that same KT lock, with far less quality control, is listed by Airstream, at over $500.00, yes, five hundred dollars.

Is that inflation or what?

Andy


Most of them failed within a years time.

[ALANSD]

ain't it the truth!

[ALANSD]

if I decide to add air conditioning later, can I use the center vent opening or will I need to cut an additional one? Can I expect to find wiring in the ceiling already?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by ALANSD

if I decide to add air conditioning later, can I use the center vent opening or will I need to cut an additional one? Can I expect to find wiring in the ceiling already?

The AC wiring is already in the ceiling, but not at any vent opening.

It's not wise to use one of the vent openings, for a number of reasons.

Andy

[Shacksman]

Originally Posted by Jezibels

Alan,

1966, it was a very good year....

Im a little biased tho ; )

PS Ya really think we have oak? Ive heard it also could be Ash but I have yet to take a door into a woodworker to ask.

Back in 66 Elm was used for most of the trailers. Yours looks very much like Elm.

[kevinb]

Way to go Alan!
Looks like a beauty, if your not taking it to falluminum then I want to come for a visit.
kevin

[ALANSD]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

The AC wiring is already in the ceiling, but not at any vent opening.

It's not wise to use one of the vent openings, for a number of reasons.

Andy

I was afraid of that answer..so it is unwise even if you reinfoce that area? i hate to poke another hole thru the roof but the alternative a/c ideas don't seem so great.
I saw where you mentioned measuring from front to a spot on the roof where the wiring would be. is that the same concept for the 66?

[ALANSD]

Originally Posted by Shacksman

Back in 66 Elm was used for most of the trailers. Yours looks very much like Elm.

elm? I thought I had read that it was Ash. Either way it is beautiful wood. Very grainy and should clean up nicely.

[Shacksman]

Originally Posted by ALANSD

elm? I thought I had read that it was Ash. Either way it is beautiful wood. Very grainy and should clean up nicely.

Elm was a top qualtity furniture wood back then. If you look at the space between the grain lines, Ash will be clear and Elm will have small herringbone pattern. Otherwise they are the same. My 67 is Elm.
This from years of working in a veneer plant where we cut miles of Elm veneer and I had to know the difference.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by ALANSD

I was afraid of that answer..so it is unwise even if you reinfoce that area? i hate to poke another hole thru the roof but the alternative a/c ideas don't seem so great.
I saw where you mentioned measuring from front to a spot on the roof where the wiring would be. is that the same concept for the 66?

Yes it is.

I have that dimension, but I will not be back in my office until 9-16.

Andy

[rideair]

Alan,

May I suggest instead of putting in AC, cutting a hole in the roof,etc... you just use my method of a window AC unit in the front window and using pet screening to make a cover that will look like an awning off the front window hiding the fact that you even have AC in the trailer, thus keeping the sleek look of the trailer.

I've been using this method for many years. Even on the hottest of days (OBX, NC in mid Aug) I was able to use a standard 8K BTU window unit with a small fan to keep the trailer cool while using the standard 110v plug next to the window to power it.

I've had a couple of folks after seeing the way I do it, install AC this way.

Let me know if you need pics.

From the time you pull-up to the time you have AC is less than five minutes the way I do it.

I have the old Armstrong AC unit (not working) on my 66 Overlander, I've thought of doing a rebuild to keep the trailer "original", but after this summer at the OBX, I'm now thinking of taking off the old AC unit and just using the window option that works so well.

[ALANSD]

I saw your post..now. Maybe that will work for me as well. I really only need the air from May until Sept anyway. Thanks, will check it out further.

[ALANSD]

Originally Posted by Shacksman

Elm was a top qualtity furniture wood back then. If you look at the space between the grain lines, Ash will be clear and Elm will have small herringbone pattern. Otherwise they are the same. My 67 is Elm.
This from years of working in a veneer plant where we cut miles of Elm veneer and I had to know the difference.

Must be then, I appreciate your insight. Anything you recommend as to the refinishing? I was going to lightly sand, clean it up and use a minwax oil stain.

[ALANSD]

I spent last weekend in the morning getting the tongue, step and rear bumper area cleaned up and redone. I did wire brushing, then priming and then painting. Simple work but makes such a difference on the old rig.

[rideair]

Alan,

The way I did mine was simple.

1. Get the standard folding aluminum table from Wal-Mart
2. Split the table in half
3. Cut the legs to length and reuse the plastic feet on the ends
4. Screw an “L” (L facing down) clip on the end of the table that rests on the window frame, thus allowing you to place the “L” clip over the frame inside lip to hold the table in place
5. Place table into window with the legs resting on your propane tanks and the table top now held in place with the “L” clips giving you a base to set you A/C unit on. Make sure that you have some “rake” to allow the water from the A/C unit outside between the propane tanks and not into the trailer
6. Place A/C on the table top/base
7. Use three pieces of Plexiglas around the A/C on the inside of the trailer. Two pieces are cut to run “vertical” up the side from the bottom of the window frame to the top of the window frame/from the edge of the A/C unit to the window frame and are held into place by the already existing screen clips down the side of the window frame. The third piece runs across the top A/C unit from the outside edges of the A/C unit/top edge of A/C unit to top edge of window frame and is held in place by the center screen clip on the top.
8. Use “vinyl” screen doubled up to create an awning which covers the unit/window and sides yet still allowing air flow for the A/C

[ALANSD]

I think this is a plan for me. I even have the screening already in the garage. Thanks for all that info and the pix.

as to the Elm wood- tonight I discovered a panel in the battery compartment in like new condition.Very much a herringbone pattern in the grain, and it was a blonde color. Makes me think I need to strip the rest of the wood and try to get it back to the lighter shade...if possible without taking every piece out. I was already planning on taking out the doors. Will be a good winter project.

[ALANSD]

the Overlander had one obvious leak, around the plumbing vent pipe. I go th ladder out today and the vent cover was cracked all around in the sealant.
Scra ped it clean and resealed it. Wouldn't you know it we had a monsoon like rain tonight the first since I brought the trailer home.
Not a drop inside. My little repair was very timely.
-I pulled off one cabinet door to refinish so I can see how the stripper will work, and then the finish restorer.

-We got memory foam mattresses, and laid them in there.

-Got some work done on the bumper hatch cover, but it will need new hinges.
The only ones I could find locally are way too thick, so I will need to get some aluminum ones and the cam locks to keep the hatch closed.