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Old 09-09-2010, 08:05 AM   #29
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Way to go Alan!
Looks like a beauty, if your not taking it to falluminum then I want to come for a visit.
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Old 09-09-2010, 09:43 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
The AC wiring is already in the ceiling, but not at any vent opening.

It's not wise to use one of the vent openings, for a number of reasons.

Andy
I was afraid of that answer..so it is unwise even if you reinfoce that area? i hate to poke another hole thru the roof but the alternative a/c ideas don't seem so great.
I saw where you mentioned measuring from front to a spot on the roof where the wiring would be. is that the same concept for the 66?
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Old 09-09-2010, 09:44 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shacksman View Post
Back in 66 Elm was used for most of the trailers. Yours looks very much like Elm.
elm? I thought I had read that it was Ash. Either way it is beautiful wood. Very grainy and should clean up nicely.
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Old 09-09-2010, 11:06 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD View Post
elm? I thought I had read that it was Ash. Either way it is beautiful wood. Very grainy and should clean up nicely.
Elm was a top qualtity furniture wood back then. If you look at the space between the grain lines, Ash will be clear and Elm will have small herringbone pattern. Otherwise they are the same. My 67 is Elm.
This from years of working in a veneer plant where we cut miles of Elm veneer and I had to know the difference.
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Old 09-09-2010, 11:21 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD View Post
I was afraid of that answer..so it is unwise even if you reinfoce that area? i hate to poke another hole thru the roof but the alternative a/c ideas don't seem so great.
I saw where you mentioned measuring from front to a spot on the roof where the wiring would be. is that the same concept for the 66?
Yes it is.

I have that dimension, but I will not be back in my office until 9-16.

Andy
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:24 PM   #34
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Window AC

Alan,

May I suggest instead of putting in AC, cutting a hole in the roof,etc... you just use my method of a window AC unit in the front window and using pet screening to make a cover that will look like an awning off the front window hiding the fact that you even have AC in the trailer, thus keeping the sleek look of the trailer.

I've been using this method for many years. Even on the hottest of days (OBX, NC in mid Aug) I was able to use a standard 8K BTU window unit with a small fan to keep the trailer cool while using the standard 110v plug next to the window to power it.

I've had a couple of folks after seeing the way I do it, install AC this way.

Let me know if you need pics.

From the time you pull-up to the time you have AC is less than five minutes the way I do it.

I have the old Armstrong AC unit (not working) on my 66 Overlander, I've thought of doing a rebuild to keep the trailer "original", but after this summer at the OBX, I'm now thinking of taking off the old AC unit and just using the window option that works so well.
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:44 PM   #35
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I saw your post..now. Maybe that will work for me as well. I really only need the air from May until Sept anyway. Thanks, will check it out further.
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Old 09-09-2010, 12:45 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shacksman View Post
Elm was a top qualtity furniture wood back then. If you look at the space between the grain lines, Ash will be clear and Elm will have small herringbone pattern. Otherwise they are the same. My 67 is Elm.
This from years of working in a veneer plant where we cut miles of Elm veneer and I had to know the difference.
Must be then, I appreciate your insight. Anything you recommend as to the refinishing? I was going to lightly sand, clean it up and use a minwax oil stain.
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Old 09-09-2010, 02:08 PM   #37
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Been working

I spent last weekend in the morning getting the tongue, step and rear bumper area cleaned up and redone. I did wire brushing, then priming and then painting. Simple work but makes such a difference on the old rig.
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Old 09-09-2010, 04:53 PM   #38
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Alan,

The way I did mine was simple.

1. Get the standard folding aluminum table from Wal-Mart
2. Split the table in half
3. Cut the legs to length and reuse the plastic feet on the ends
4. Screw an “L” (L facing down) clip on the end of the table that rests on the window frame, thus allowing you to place the “L” clip over the frame inside lip to hold the table in place
5. Place table into window with the legs resting on your propane tanks and the table top now held in place with the “L” clips giving you a base to set you A/C unit on. Make sure that you have some “rake” to allow the water from the A/C unit outside between the propane tanks and not into the trailer
6. Place A/C on the table top/base
7. Use three pieces of Plexiglas around the A/C on the inside of the trailer. Two pieces are cut to run “vertical” up the side from the bottom of the window frame to the top of the window frame/from the edge of the A/C unit to the window frame and are held into place by the already existing screen clips down the side of the window frame. The third piece runs across the top A/C unit from the outside edges of the A/C unit/top edge of A/C unit to top edge of window frame and is held in place by the center screen clip on the top.
8. Use “vinyl” screen doubled up to create an awning which covers the unit/window and sides yet still allowing air flow for the A/C
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Old 09-09-2010, 06:45 PM   #39
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I think this is a plan for me. I even have the screening already in the garage. Thanks for all that info and the pix.

as to the Elm wood- tonight I discovered a panel in the battery compartment in like new condition.Very much a herringbone pattern in the grain, and it was a blonde color. Makes me think I need to strip the rest of the wood and try to get it back to the lighter shade...if possible without taking every piece out. I was already planning on taking out the doors. Will be a good winter project.
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Old 09-11-2010, 07:55 PM   #40
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Good news

the Overlander had one obvious leak, around the plumbing vent pipe. I go th ladder out today and the vent cover was cracked all around in the sealant.
Scra ped it clean and resealed it. Wouldn't you know it we had a monsoon like rain tonight the first since I brought the trailer home.
Not a drop inside. My little repair was very timely.
-I pulled off one cabinet door to refinish so I can see how the stripper will work, and then the finish restorer.

-We got memory foam mattresses, and laid them in there.

-Got some work done on the bumper hatch cover, but it will need new hinges.
The only ones I could find locally are way too thick, so I will need to get some aluminum ones and the cam locks to keep the hatch closed.
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:56 AM   #41
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a Plumbing question

what are these two valve type things? One is leaking and though I tightened the screw in on top it still drips, and will need replacement. They have a rubber insert that screws down into the pipe.
Are they some kind of relief valve? Do I need them?
Also where is the drain for the water tank. I see the tube poking uner the trailer in front but not sure what to open to drain it.
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:55 PM   #42
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alan
The one I see going through the floor looks like the drain for the fresh water tank,the other is probably the valve you shut off when you are connected to city water, both appear to have the handles broken off which is probably why they leak.Looks like a standard flair fitting so easy fix. Is you old p&r pump still working?
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