Has anyone removed sink and one piece bathtub/toilet moulding in a 66 overlander? I am stuck and need help. I have removed screws around underside of the sink lip. Front of top is lose but seems attached at wall.
Unable to remove sink as the top seems attached to the wall and I cannot find access to fasteners.
Also does one need to remove belly pan to be able to disconnect drain from bottom of tub? All this stuff needs to come out to be able to replace rotten floor section in rear. Thanks for any help - James
I believe your Overlander has the same bathroom as mine. And it sounds like you are in the same predicament I was in in December. Here is what I found:
Airstream assembled the bathroom first, then worked their way forward assembling everything else. In order to completely disassemble the bathroom, I had to remove everything in front it.
The sink is attached to both the curved wall, and the wall separating it from the sleeping quarters. Have you removed the medicine cabinet?
While removing the belly skin to disconnect the tub drain did not help my effort, the belly skin still had to be removed to treat the frame damage in the rotted out area. You will find the metal part of the tub drain (and also the sink drain) is screwed into the ABS fitting. I made a tool to unscrew it, but a store-bought version is available.
I believe your Overlander has the same bathroom as mine. And it sounds like you are in the same predicament I was in in December. Here is what I found:
Airstream assembled the bathroom first, then worked their way forward assembling everything else. In order to completely disassemble the bathroom, I had to remove everything in front it.
The sink is attached to both the curved wall, and the wall separating it from the sleeping quarters. Have you removed the medicine cabinet?
While removing the belly skin to disconnect the tub drain did not help my effort, the belly skin still had to be removed to treat the frame damage in the rotted out area. You will find the metal part of the tub drain (and also the sink drain) is screwed into the ABS fitting. I made a tool to unscrew it, but a store-bought version is available.
PM me if you need more detail.
Tom
Tom; Thanks for your reply. I think you and I have talked before. I had a look at your photos and your layout is different from mine. My bath is on left as you enter and sink is mounted on back corner of tub under the rear window on the left side. Good info on drain - I'm gonna see if I can get to that today. You mentioned that sink is attached to curved back wall - how did you get to these attachments?
I have removed back partition from closet which will now allow one piece bathtub moulding to be removed, but it's still gonna be a challenge.
James
James
Take a look at this pic and see if we have the same bathroom layout. I think TomW's "Lander" has the twin beds offset a little, which changes the bathroom a bit. My twin bed are striaght across from one another. I am curious how you are coming on yours, I am just starting to tear into mine for the rear floor section. TomE
Tom: My layout is a little different than your as mine has a double on the right side looking aft and a hanging locker on the left. I had to remove the partition in front of bath in order to get it out, but it was a struggle. I wanted to get tub out so I could resurface it but it would go through the front door!!! It had to come out to fix floor anyway. My rot was in back corner under tub and totally around toilet. All is now complete and back together. If you need help on my plan of attack let me know.
make sure you check the support pan of the black water tank - mine was totally rusted out.
James
James
My tank support is pretty bad. Is there a recommended type of sheet metal to build a new one? I can't imagine one being available at a reasonable price. My floor rot is pretty much around the toilet. I plan to cut the floor (along the blue line) a foot or so in front of the toilet and about 6 inches behind the existing floor seam (red circle). I can easily brace the new seam there. Were would a good source be for the new plywood, and just how "special" is this stuff? By the way, I just live 30 minutes from Jackson Center. Do you have any idae how much info could I get for my overhaul if I went to the plant? I appreciate everyones input. Love this web site. Thanks again, Tom
Tom - sorry for the late reply. I did reply to your email that I received but unfortunately I replied directly and not on this forum - it did not register.
As for the tank pan, mine was a lot worse than yours. I made up a drawing which I can share with you if you need it and took it to a sheet metal shop. They were able to make me a replacement for a decent price. They used heavy gauge galvanized sheet metal with the cutout holes as per the original. I also added a drain hole at the center back to allow any fluids to dissipate. I then coated the whole thing with 2 coats of metal rust paint and used new stainless screws for attachment. As for the floor:
I used 5/8" marine grade plywood for the floor, treated the underside with rot inhibitor. I took my router and cut half the thickness of the plywood back about 3" on the underside of the new insert, and the same thickness and depth from the topside of the existing floor to make a perfect 3" wide lap joint. I used lots of waterproof plywood glue and #12 stainless countersunk screws to install the new piece in place. Final result is just as strong as original and provides good support for toilet without having to worry about trying to support from underside.
Hope this helps. James
By the way, I made one serious mistake -- I forgot to replace the valve coming out of the holding tank while it was out. Rubber stiffens up and will not completely seal -- sooo my tank drips. Replace it while it's out - virtually impossible once its back in place!!!
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