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Old 07-08-2013, 10:16 AM   #15
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OK, just for the sake of completeness, I'll document what I did during the wing window rebuild. First, I removed the clamping extrusion that ataches the wing window to the center window. As beat up as it was on each end, I thought I would have to hammer the crap out of it to get it to move, but I put some penetrating oil on it, and placed a hardwood block against one end, and then used my air hammer against the block, and it moved right along without creating any extra deformation, or other damage. The window ha been replaced at least once, I assume because of a broken window. The other one had been replaced as well. Guess for the price of two window replacements, a guy could justify the high cost of a rock guard. The bad thing, is that there were multiple holes left behind due to the multiple installs, and the skin around the window looked like Swiss cheese.

Disassembly of the window frame extrusion was easier than I expected. There were just two screws at top, and two at bottom that attached the "straight" section of frame to the curved part. Some of the heads of the screws snapped off, which resulted in my having to get into the groove with a dremel wheel to remove the remaining rusted screw bodies.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:23 AM   #16
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I spent altogether too much time mulling over what to fill the frame with after rebuilding as a single pane, but finally settled on some sort of tough hose, so that it would not only fill the frame, but have the "spring force" to stay in place, and to keep the window in position. It turned out the perfect sized hose for the job was black rubber air hose made by Goodyear. There is also a judicious amount of Vulkem to seal the glass in the frame.

I also needed some kind of spacer to keep the glass from touching the aluminum frame. For this, I used a bunch of very thing silicon "bumpers" like you might put on the bottom of a cutting board to keep it from sliding around on your counter top. Had to look long and hard to find ones that were thin enough for this application. Reassembled the window frames with stainless steel screws.
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:27 AM   #17
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Finally got the window back on the trailer this weekend (replaced the curved panel underneath it as well. I had to put washers on the back side of the rivets because the holes were such a mess. I expect to have as much fun with the other window as well.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:21 AM   #18
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Appreciate the pix, this is something I'm going to have to do, probably this winter or next year. If you have any more detailed shots of the disassembly or re-installation, would love to see them too.
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:28 PM   #19
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so, the rubber hose is just pressed in? or is the vulkem also kind of gluing it in place?
did you have to put a bead of vulkem around the edge on the outside of the glass, too?

tested for water-tightness yet?

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Old 07-08-2013, 03:26 PM   #20
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Looking good, I had the same multiple holes to deal with also, but mine were outside of the window frame, I guess that's the reason for the huge amounts of silicone around the frame.
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:59 PM   #21
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curved panel?

Did you replace panel #14? the one that goes from window to floor line? Where did you get it? new? matches? John
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:06 PM   #22
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There is a liberal amount of vulkem both sealing the glass into the frame and providing extra adhesion under the hose. There is also a bead on the outside to make sure any void at the edge of the frame is filled.
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Old 07-08-2013, 05:15 PM   #23
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Did you reuse your glass? I had one of these break a few months ago and paid an arm and a leg to have it replaced as a unit. would be interesting to know about how to just pop in new glass or even plastic.

estimate on your hours?
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:08 PM   #24
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Yep, used the original glass, and the good news is, the next time the outer pane breaks, I have the inner pane in my attic ready to go into action. I probably spent the most time trying to decide how to fill the gap created by removing the inner pane. When I do my other window, I bet I will be able to do it in 4-6 hours, depending on how much trouble I have with the screws that hold the frame together. It isn't so simple as just popping glass in and out, since I had to drill out all the rivets holding the frame in place, and buck them all back in again (my inner skins are currently removed).
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:11 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
.... Disassembly of the window frame extrusion was easier than I expected..... Some of the heads of the screws snapped off.....
How easy is easy??

I removed the streetside wing window last weekend to repair water leaks from a poorly replaced #11 front segment. Had a really annoying leak between the window frame and skin that would get worse the colder it got.

While its out I figured I might as well take it apart, clean and reseal it.

Iíve removed the screws, 2 heads broke off. Iíve been soaking the old sealer, foam, butyrate and who knows what else theyíve smeared on there with PB Blaster and Xylene.
Iíve managed to slide a piece of .032 aluminum strip in the corner between the frame and outer glass but itís still mostly stuck. The manual indicates it's a smple job to pry out the outer glass. Yea, Maybe 40 years ago.

Any thoughts?
Tom
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:04 PM   #26
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Tom,

I know that both of my wing windows have been replaced by a previous owner, so it could be that the windows I rebuilt are of a much later vintage. If you look back at post #16, you can see the cross-section of my window frames, and these are constructed differently than the diagram on your post above. It looks like your frames come apart in a "clam-shell" type design, whereas mine came apart as if disassembling the letter "D" and pulling the vertical, straight part away from the curved section. Once the straight part of the frame was released (two screws at the top, two at the bottom), the two panes, with rubber gasket between them and the frame, and the black goo that separates them all slid out of the frame as one piece. I might have spread the frame a little to loosen it up.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:21 PM   #27
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Thanks for the reply.

After searching the treads for the last year or so I think there may be 4 or 5 basic designs that were used for the smaller wings until they went with the panoramic style.
I was hoping the chemicals would do most of the work loosening up the sealers. FYI, I only have 2 screws holding the straight piece to the ďDĒ extrusion. And 6 holding the outer and inner frames together. One corners up about ľ inch. The rest is still stuck.
Iím documenting the process as I go along. If I donít mess something up and have to replace the whole unit Iíll post that as a how to.

Tom
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:23 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moparjohn View Post
Did you replace panel #14? the one that goes from window to floor line? Where did you get it? new? matches? John
Missed responding to this one earlier--Here's the long story: Yes, I did replace the quarter panel below the window. The original had a large dent in it that I successfully popped out with a suction cup, the problem was that with the least amount of pressure, the dent would pop back in again. Since I had all the interior skins out, I thought I would try to roll the dent out from inside. I have one of those Harbor Freight English Wheels, so I selected a roller of what I thought was a reasonable radius, and rolled on my dent from inside. Well, my roller probably had too small of a radius, and I probably pushed too hard, and ended up with visible "roller marks" that could be seen and felt from outside. Those end segments are super soft!

I took the whole panel off and ran it through my English Wheel, trying to get the roller marks flattened out. Got rid of the marks, but succeeded in changing the overall curve of the segment enough that it was noticeably bulged out. So, next, I took a piece of .040 6061 and tried to make a compound curved lower segment from scratch. Beyond my skill level. So I broke down and ordered a new panel from Out of Doors Mart. The freight is a killer. Showed up in a box the size of a full size mattress!
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