Window opener

[Uncle Bill]

Have you ever wanted to open a window without going outside to pry the window loose. That was the beginning of my fix.

I made small puh pins mounted from the inside, through the screen to the window. I used 1/4 inch aluminum rod with plastic caps on the ends. I would be glad to give additional information upon request. Email: unkbill123@aol.com with subject line: Window Opener.

[mstephens]

I've been thinking about this since we owned the trailer! We have a 2012 FC and I would love to have all the details about this. I would use them fir sure.
Looks good.

[Uncle Bill]

I purchased 1/4 aluminum rod stock at Lowe's in a 36" long piece. This were cut into pieces about 3 inches long (one piece for each push pin). The plastic caps are the ones used on the ends of wire shelving made by Closet Maid. The hole seen in the photo attachment of my post must be just a slight bit larger than 1/4 inch to allow for free movement of the push pin. You may notice that I made a support for the rod, push pin, with a 1/4 inch + hole to support the rod within about 3/8 inch of the window. This support needs to be made from a material that will bend easy. (When the window is closed there can not be any thing preventing it from sealing. Here, I used a piece of a golf cart windshield bracket to make this "L" shaped support. A stainless steel screw was used to mount this new support to the bottom of the window frame.

Once the window locks are released, a push on the pin pops the window free from the seal. It is then very easy to open the window by their handles.

Uncle Bill

[Uncle Bill]

I will send additional photos upon request as attachments to an email if you need them. Uncle Bill

[MrUKToad]

A clever solution for sure.

I'm on the Mark 1 solution; I keep the rubber seals treated with a little silicon spray from time to time and that seems to do the trick.

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bill

Have you ever wanted to open a window without going outside to pry the window loose. That was the beginning of my fix.

I made small puh pins mounted from the inside, through the screen to the window. I used 1/4 inch aluminum rod with plastic caps on the ends. I would be glad to give additional information upon request. Email: unkbill123@aol.com with subject line: Window Opener.

Uncle bill, my wife loves you already. That's fantastic. I guess a section of one inch aluminum angle might work for your window sill support if you trimmed the one side back to allow mounting at proper position. What did you use to seal against water leaks at the screw hole?

[Uncle Bill]

Since the screw is on the inside of the window, I did not use anything. I did not think it was necessary.

[Hoobiedoobie]

Well that's just brilliant!!

[SteveSueMac]

I hope the engineers at Airstream are reading this! Nicely done and something I think I am going to try!

[Howard L.]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bill

Since the screw is on the inside of the window, I did not use anything. I did not think it was necessary.

Might be a good idea to caulk well. Costs nothing and there are quite a number of posts with water leak problems or wet underfloor plywood with water coming from know not where. A few have been water leaks from window sills when a seal fails or rain when window cracked open. Front square window can be especially problematic at the lower corners. But what a great idea, congratulations.

Howard

[MomcatA]

We have found that the silicon cure works well.

[Howard L.]

Uncle Bill, installed your window opening system yesterday. I did find that one inch aluminum angle worked for the support in the window sill, so cut 1 in. sections of that and installed it using 3M 5200 adhesive sealant without screws. Again, thanks for the invention and install info.
Howard

[CanoeStream]

Neat fix! Window gaskets are known to stick. Using a 'One from Column A, One from Column B' philosophy, lewster's de-sticking recommendation could come in handy as part of the solution.

[Howard L.]

Uncle Bill. It's been a week since I installed your window opener system, so an update. As noted, I modified your window sill support and used one inch aluminum angle--hole drilled in line with the window frame hole. I did not screw the angle support to the sill, but relied on 3M 5200 sealant to glue it there. After curing for a week, it's solid as a rock. I thought it would be as I've used 5200 in marine environment under water, everywhere, and it takes hammer and chisel to remove. I shortened one opening pin at the front window so as to not interfere with the sliding drapes--only need enough length to break seal. Again, a wonderfully improvement, Airstream should take notice.

[Uncle Bill]

Originally Posted by Howard L.

Attachment 197448

Uncle Bill, installed your window opening system yesterday. I did find that one inch aluminum angle worked for the support in the window sill, so cut 1 in. sections of that and installed it using 3M 5200 adhesive sealant without screws. Again, thanks for the invention and install info.
Howard

Where did you get the 3M 5200? I am always looking for a good adhesive. I am pleased that at least someone else likes my idea. I have heard and seen some questions written here as to the possibility of breaking the window. I question the amount of force necessary that would result in a broken window, after all it is tempered glass.

I like the idea of being able to open my windows from the inside. My large windows on the front and rear are almost never used. But, I installed pins on them as well. I put two on each of them, one on each lower corner.

Howard, I am also a wood worker and have made some other improvements to our AS. If you are interested in any of these, you can email me directly at Unkbill123@aol.com. I would be glad to send pictures and writen explaination of each.

[Joe Palmieri]

When we first got our A$ and I tried to open the windows and almost hurt my back I thought that this was one of the dumbest things going. then I found this Dupont Teflon Silicone lubricant at Lowe's. I cleaned the rubber and the glass surface, wiped the lubricant on the rubber only with a paper towel and haven't had an issue with windows sticking since. I will re-apply the lubricant at the beginning of next season and see how it goes. Your idea is a very clever one. By the way, you can get 3M 5200 at West Marine or most other marine supply stores.

[Howard L.]

5200 in the small tooth past sized tube at Home Depot (probably Lowes also) in paint section with contact cement, super glue, etc. I used it as the caulk around the marine antennae installed for Sirius XM also. It would be a forever fix for small caulking repairs on the white top (it's available in black also). The silicone on the rubber ( or the 303 product) is a good idea too. But your invention insures you never have to go outside again. I only used one pin on the big windows.

[Moflash]

Silicone sprayed on rubber window gaskets once every 2 years,no more sticky windows.

[Roger S]

The window openers shown in this post are a bit more difficult to install than the original WindowPoppers from seeyoudowntheroad.com. Since they are aluminum and anchor in two places, I'd be a bit concerned about them not retracting properly and possibly breaking a window when it is locked.