Water coming in the wall above stovetop

[trumpetguy]

I have a water leak in the horizontal seam in the wall where the cooktop is. Quite a lot of water comes in during heavy rain. Thinking the cause would be the exhaust fan vent I caulked the vent a few weeks ago, but that has not stopped the leak. I know that water can find its way from strange locations and then wick to an exit point.

I had all the roof openings sealed with Dicor in December...except the skin seams.

Any suggestions? Fridge vent maybe?

2007 International CCD 28.


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[CRH]

I would first look at the awning rail.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by CRH

I would first look at the awning rail.

X2 ^ Of all the seams and openings, the awning rail on the curbside as well as it's corresponding brother (roof rail) on streetside, require the most frequent replacement. About every 4 years in my climate and location.

Your leak could be elsewhere, but I'd start there. Was that seam one that was resealed recently?

[trumpetguy]

Yes it was resealed in December but I will check there.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

Yes it was resealed in December but I will check there.

Also see that they resealed the Rivets which attach the rails as well as the joint between the rail and the white rooftop. Those rivets sometimes become loos, due to the stresses of the awning while deployed under tension as well as wind load. Loose rivets should be replaced and sealed.

[dkottum]

X3 on the awning, they hold water somewhat like a rain gutter instead of letting it fall. No longer, but the factory used to install the awnings AFTER the leak test at factory assembly.

[DaveMc]

I had a leak that showed up there. It was from the skylight.

[ranchometal]

I had a similar issue. I caulked ALL around the stove vent on the exterior and the problem persisted. I took off the stove/range hood on the interior and could feel water pooling in the 'box' in the wall that connects the interior stove vent to the exterior vent assembly. Caulked more, ran house outside and still water pooled up. Once this water pool gets high enough, it overwhelms the 'box' and comes in thru the interior horizontal seam just below the vent 'box'. I removed the old plastic vent and installed a new metal vent. Problem is fixed. I did add caulk along the inside of the new vent on the vertical spaces where there's a built-in gap. Very bad design. The old plastic vent had the same problem. So, I think that the issue is a bad design in the construction of the plastic and metal external vents such that the vertical seams allow water intrusion. Good luck.

[trumpetguy]

The leak is on the street side where I have no awning, but I did check the rail this morning and the RV tech did a good job sealing the joint, plus all the rivet heads. I looked inside the fridge vent and there is a dam, or curb as it were that stands up from the roof. That area was not sealed and there is a small break in the caulking. When we dry out a bit I can put some Dicor on the area.


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[featherbedder]

Has AS changed mounting of awning rails ie style, way of mounting etc. as I live about 3 miles from dzng0g and never changed rails or had leaks on 1976 that I pur. new in 77 and have awnings since new. Never changed or sealed any place on trailer, only leak one of rear red lites above bath window drips once in awhile, not enough to mess with, also stove vent after hard rain drips a little neither of these 2 are enough to worry about. AS was stored outside until 1991 now goes inside for winter.

[trumpetguy]

Using a water hose I was able to repeat the leak by drenching the stove vent. Other areas I drenched had no result. So either I caulk the vent more or replace it and caulk more. It is attached with screws instead of rivets so maybe adding some Sikaflex to each screw head will do the trick.


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[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

Using a water hose I was able to repeat the leak by drenching the stove vent. Other areas I drenched had no result. So either I caulk the vent more or replace it and caulk more. It is attached with screws instead of rivets so maybe adding some Sikaflex to each screw head will do the trick.


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Glad you isolated it. Be sure to seal the head and the threads of the screw. I used parbond for the screws and the perimeter when I installed my stainless vent cover. It has lasted over 5 years thus far.

[fsaia]

We had same leak and discovered tabs for locking flapper on exhaust vent were broken. replace vent with new and keep locked till we we are cooking. Stopped leak for us

[trumpetguy]

Where did you find the stainless vent cover?


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[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

Where did you find the stainless vent cover?


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Airstream store.

[trumpetguy]

Thanks.

[trumpetguy]

I bought a replacement plastic ventline cover from Woodlands RV. They included a roll of gray mastic... the type that you buy and it is delivered in a type of double stick backing. Would that be intended to go between the vent and the trailer, or to be placed around the edges after I install the vent? Normally I would use Vulkem 116 around the edges. Of course I want to get this done today, Sunday, and Woodlands is closed so I can't give them a call.

Constructive advice please.


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[Dingo Girl]

Colin Hyde recommends butyl tape between the vent and the trailer. It stays plyable and won't take hours to remove if you ever have to.
Wish I'd known this before I used Vulkem on mine.
If you are using pop rivets get the closed end style.

[trumpetguy]

That must be what Woodlands sent. So no need to caulk the edges if using Butyl tape.