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Old 05-06-2014, 08:13 PM   #15
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Shawnna,
Found this video while researching the Chia Pet growing around my window seals, thought it might help.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:47 PM   #16
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Disregard my answer. It was for the windows on my 1970 which are different from yours.
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Old 05-07-2014, 12:12 AM   #17
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No rivet removal needed. Call your windows "1967 Philips Corning"



There were three attempts at these windows. Generation one 1966, gen two '67, gen three '68. depending on the build date of your '67 you could have any of the three, but it looks like your photo is not 1966. From the interior, if there are five or so Philips head screws that you can see across the top-most aluminum touching the glass, that is a clamp-bar. If you loosen/remove those screws, your window glass can be removed, and you can replace the foam adhesive tape that holds your window in. This tape has nothing to do with what Andy is suggesting about injecting clear sealant in the hinge. Andy is explaining the “shop-fix” for windows leaking through the top hinge.


If you peruse the forum, You'll find persons who were mystified by the disappearance of their '67, '68 windows. Some were found shattered on the ground below, others disappeared while driving down the road. The foam deteriorates, turns to dust, and the window falls out. Could be why you already have a plastic window elsewhere. After sitting in the driveway for two years under restoration, one of mine fell out one day. Luckily, the Airstream Goddess had me positioned at the side of the trailer, assessing my property line, where I caught a glimpse of reflected movement. Without thought, the firing synapses put me in a feet first baseman's slide to break the window's fall and prevent its demise. There is a finite number of original Corning curved windows. The reasonably priced replica/replacements available “will work” but they are not the same as the original in more than one way.


If you're thinking...”Gee, that seems like a lot of work that I don't want to get into right now.” Correct. It is an S-load of tedious work. Safer for the glass if two persons work together. Try re-taping one and see how it goes. If it is unbearable, take clear packaging tape and seal along the hinge and glass until you can muster the strength to continue. If your windows are closed and latched at the bottom, they cannot fall out. I know how dreadful the tarp is.


I attempted to photograph my 1968 window at a similar angle to compare. It is hard to tell if there is a difference in the extrusion. Don't be confused by the glass edge. '68 glass has a stainless steel edge that is irrelevant to your issue.


Others on the forum have experience with these and may offer more info. These windows are unique. They are not as dreadful as some claim, but they are a tad delicate. Study up on them. I did the 100 hour rebuild and am very pleased.


Micro-blinds fit nicely behind the screens.


The vintage of your trailer is adorable, keep its rebuild fun for you. I'm lovin' every minute of it.


I'm sleepy...
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:31 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM View Post
No rivet removal needed. Call your windows "1967 Philips Corning"



There were three attempts at these windows. Generation one 1966, gen two '67, gen three '68. depending on the build date of your '67 you could have any of the three, but it looks like your photo is not 1966. From the interior, if there are five or so Philips head screws that you can see across the top-most aluminum touching the glass, that is a clamp-bar. If you loosen/remove those screws, your window glass can be removed, and you can replace the foam adhesive tape that holds your window in. This tape has nothing to do with what Andy is suggesting about injecting clear sealant in the hinge. Andy is explaining the “shop-fix” for windows leaking through the top hinge.


If you peruse the forum, You'll find persons who were mystified by the disappearance of their '67, '68 windows. Some were found shattered on the ground below, others disappeared while driving down the road. The foam deteriorates, turns to dust, and the window falls out. Could be why you already have a plastic window elsewhere. After sitting in the driveway for two years under restoration, one of mine fell out one day. Luckily, the Airstream Goddess had me positioned at the side of the trailer, assessing my property line, where I caught a glimpse of reflected movement. Without thought, the firing synapses put me in a feet first baseman's slide to break the window's fall and prevent its demise. There is a finite number of original Corning curved windows. The reasonably priced replica/replacements available “will work” but they are not the same as the original in more than one way.


If you're thinking...”Gee, that seems like a lot of work that I don't want to get into right now.” Correct. It is an S-load of tedious work. Safer for the glass if two persons work together. Try re-taping one and see how it goes. If it is unbearable, take clear packaging tape and seal along the hinge and glass until you can muster the strength to continue. If your windows are closed and latched at the bottom, they cannot fall out. I know how dreadful the tarp is.


I attempted to photograph my 1968 window at a similar angle to compare. It is hard to tell if there is a difference in the extrusion. Don't be confused by the glass edge. '68 glass has a stainless steel edge that is irrelevant to your issue.


Others on the forum have experience with these and may offer more info. These windows are unique. They are not as dreadful as some claim, but they are a tad delicate. Study up on them. I did the 100 hour rebuild and am very pleased.


Micro-blinds fit nicely behind the screens.


The vintage of your trailer is adorable, keep its rebuild fun for you. I'm lovin' every minute of it.


I'm sleepy...

Thank you! Your window frames and parts look AMAZING....How did you clean up those parts? I need to remove the rust and corrosion on mine. I have enjoyed working on my sweetie, Minnie..... However, It has been extremely overwhelming at times.... I have to remind myself that this is the biggest challenge I have taken on and it will most definitely be a learning curve.
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:40 AM   #19
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The reasonably priced replica/replacements available “will work” but they are not the same as the original in more than one way.
Why do you feel the replacements are not the same as the originals?

Andy
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Old 05-07-2014, 02:51 PM   #20
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What clear sealant do I need to use?
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Old 05-07-2014, 03:14 PM   #21
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What clear sealant do I need to use?
Clear "silicone sealer".

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Old 05-07-2014, 05:57 PM   #22
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Hi Andy,


I'm curious about the history of the 66-68 Philips-Corning/Airstream relationship. One of my too many interests is glass. I've had a glass kiln for 15 years, and have experience with fusion, mold making, annealing and such. I considered making my own window but preferred to find an original. That took three years of searching. Why?? For me, it was the logo. I'm the guy that can't have un-matching windows in his restoration. It isn't an obsession, just an order of detail.


I know you have a vein of sensitivity about the replacement windows, and I have read every post about them. I don't fit into the debate as I have never held the replacement glass in my hand and am unable to make a physical or molecular comparison. What I understand from your posts and others is that the thickness is different, the temper is different, and the logo is different. I would guess that what also differs are the ratios of glass formers, flint, sand, quartz, Potash,fluxes, coefficient of expansion, heat ramps....
By different, I didn't mean inferior. In fact, the replacement window could be superior to whatever Airstream specified. I can't imagine that AS went to Corning and asked for the finest glass that money can buy. It was more likely “Furnish the cheapest glass that you're willing to put your name on.”


I'm a bit fascinated by the design expectation that the glass has to bend just enough to evenly compress the seal. That's not an easy task, and I wonder if Corning was funded by AS to R&D it fully. Or was it Philips that specified the design to Corning? Anybody know?? or care?


Anyway, It was late, I was tired of editing myself, and felt that supporting the statement was secondary to my point of Corning window preservation. Honestly, It did occur to me that “not the same” might ruffle someone's feathers.


Thanks for the opportunity to clarify my statement. Thanks even more for sharing your wisdom and all the support you offer. You school a lot of us.
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Old 05-07-2014, 06:57 PM   #23
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Thank You Andy and Aluminuminum! I appreciate your schooling, help, patience, understanding and explanations! I have found very helpful information on this board and wouldn't even know where to begin if it were not for the experts and guidance of people who are very passionate about their trailers. I hope that everyone who can use and enjoying their trailers are doing so, as I can hardly wait till my first night out in mine.
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:21 PM   #24
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Ms S
I couldn't list or recommend all the solvents, carcinogens, abrasives, rouges, pickers, strippers, scrapers, waxes, penetrants, brushes, buffers, polishers... needed for prep and finish work. Decide what's chemically safe for you to use.
Clear sealant?? Could be an aluminum friendly silicone, or a flexible clear poly-something? I have no experience with flexible clears for Airstream exteriors.
There's a variety of suitable sealants and applicators that folks use on the shell. These are what I chose.
Happy Trails, Wm
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:36 PM   #25
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Ms S
I couldn't list or recommend all the solvents, carcinogens, abrasives, rouges, pickers, strippers, scrapers, waxes, penetrants, brushes, buffers, polishers... needed for prep and finish work. Decide what's chemically safe for you to use.
Clear sealant?? Could be an aluminum friendly silicone, or a flexible clear poly-something? I have no experience with flexible clears for Airstream exteriors.
There's a variety of suitable sealants and applicators that folks use on the shell. These are what I chose.
Happy Trails, Wm
Interesting.

I measured an old Phillips window made by Corning.

It measured .112 inches thick.

I also measured the replacements and they are all .125 inches thick.

The curvature of the new windows, that we have, matches the original aluminum metal frame within 1/16 of an inch.

Certainly, then there is zero problems with it's fit.

Upgrading it's installation using the "D" gasket assures a "non leaking" window, other than possibly the window hinge, which is an easy fix.

Andy
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:15 PM   #26
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Interesting.



I measured an old Phillips window made by Corning.



It measured .112 inches thick.



I also measured the replacements and they are all .125 inches thick.



The curvature of the new windows, that we have, matches the original aluminum metal frame within 1/16 of an inch.



Certainly, then there is zero problems with it's fit.



Upgrading it's installation using the "D" gasket assures a "non leaking" window, other than possibly the window hinge, which is an easy fix.



Andy

Thank you again Andy! I'm sorry for my ignorance but I have a Newbie
Question.. Do you use the same manufactures as VTS for your replacement windows and stainless steel window clips? I'm merely asking because I think that is something to be considered when we are ordering replacement parts.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:02 PM   #27
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Thank you again Andy! I'm sorry for my ignorance but I have a Newbie
Question.. Do you use the same manufactures as VTS for your replacement windows and stainless steel window clips? I'm merely asking because I think that is something to be considered when we are ordering replacement parts.
Our 66, 67 and 68 windows are ordered from Airstream.

They in turn, order them from Atwood, so that they meet the Airstream specs.

VTS is not an Airstream dealer, therefore the only way they can get true Airstream parts, is through a dealer, or pay retail at the factory.

The stainless steel window clips we offer are made locally only for us.

Andy
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:17 AM   #28
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Wow, Thank you for clearing this up for me. I really had no clue. Definitely will consider that when making future purchases.
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