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Old 11-04-2016, 12:13 PM   #1
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Frustrated with "dropped" shower door?

If, like us, you have been frustrated with a shower door that has dropped on the hinge side and catches at the bottom on the handle side, here is a solution. After many times of pulling up from the door top/handle when both opening and closing the shower door, we discussed this with a friend at Alumalina this past weekend. He had replaced his door but suggested using a nylon washer on the bottom hinge pin by splitting the washer. Unfortunately, there is no accessible pin on our door. When looking through my "junk box" at home I found these nylon spacers/washers that I had decided to save. The spacer/washer is 3/4" outside diameter and 7/16" thick. I simply placed it in the track at the hinge side after pulling the door up. I sprayed the top of the spacer with dry silicon lubricant as an extra measure. The door dropped right down on the washer and smoothly and perfectly opens and closes decreasing the frustration and aggravation. The weight and pressure of the door holds it in place. These spacer/washers might be found in a box store or hardware store.
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Old 11-04-2016, 12:44 PM   #2
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good idea...thanks
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Old 11-04-2016, 12:55 PM   #3
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So the pin on the door is long enough to go right through the 7/16" spacer and still engage in the frame ok?

Did you lift the door right out to install it or did you cut a slot in the spacer with a Dremel tool or similar?

Our shower door has always suffered the same problem!


Brian.
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Old 11-04-2016, 03:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
So the pin on the door is long enough to go right through the 7/16" spacer and still engage in the frame ok?

Did you lift the door right out to install it or did you cut a slot in the spacer with a Dremel tool or similar?

Our shower door has always suffered the same problem!


Brian.
On our shower door there is no pin from the hinge. The door seems to slide up and down on the hinge side. So I just pulled the door up and placed the nylon spacer underneath the hinge side. The weight and pressure holds the spacer in place.
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Old 11-04-2016, 03:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverbee View Post
On our shower door there is no pin from the hinge. The door seems to slide up and down on the hinge side. So I just pulled the door up and placed the nylon spacer underneath the hinge side. The weight and pressure holds the spacer in place.
Understand - thanks! Maybe ours has no pin either, I just assumed it would have! (Our trailer is in storage until Feb.)

I know that on ours there is an adjustable hinge bracket at the top of the doorand its set screw sometimes comes loose allowing the door to angle over and jam - I have had to address that a couple of times. Never really looked closely at the bottem end, but we have to do just as you described and lift the handle end to be able to open the door properly - would like to resolve that.

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Old 11-04-2016, 05:06 PM   #6
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Smart fix!
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Old 11-05-2016, 02:39 PM   #7
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See the following posts on previous discussions for the same problem.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ml#post1703084
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...nt-124069.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f446...ped-94602.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f164...ue-123619.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...ix-127887.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f164...rd-140613.html

I first used the nylon spacer under the hinge approach but found that it only provided a temporary solution. The problem is that the door is only supported by two screws going horizontally from the hinge into the door. The leverage from the weight of the door along with the up/down motion from the road causes these screws to bend.

Based on a comment from one of the threads I linked to, I installed a piece of 3/8" PEX (1/2" OD) along the bottom door frame to support the full width of the door when it is closed. No more sagging.

We rarely use our shower, so I can't reply to questions on the long term potential risks of water leaks caused by the screws holding the PEX to the bottom door frame.


Greg
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Old 11-05-2016, 04:10 PM   #8
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I have had this problem. I have cut a piece of Delron (Nylon) rod 1 1/2 inches in diameter, .655 inches thick and then put a groove in one side that lines up with the lip on the shower door frame. Then slide it in and it will be held in place by the groove. The thickness may be slightly different for your application. I sanded it down to make the final thickness and rounded the edges with 150 grit or finder sand paper.
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Old 11-08-2016, 03:16 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greghoro View Post
See the following posts on previous discussions for the same problem.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ml#post1703084
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...nt-124069.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f446...ped-94602.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f164...ue-123619.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...ix-127887.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f164...rd-140613.html

I first used the nylon spacer under the hinge approach but found that it only provided a temporary solution. The problem is that the door is only supported by two screws going horizontally from the hinge into the door. The leverage from the weight of the door along with the up/down motion from the road causes these screws to bend.

Based on a comment from one of the threads I linked to, I installed a piece of 3/8" PEX (1/2" OD) along the bottom door frame to support the full width of the door when it is closed. No more sagging.

We rarely use our shower, so I can't reply to questions on the long term potential risks of water leaks caused by the screws holding the PEX to the bottom door frame.


Greg

X2- but better to use adhesive instead of screws
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenrms View Post
X2- but better to use adhesive instead of screws
Quote:
Originally Posted by greghoro View Post
See the following posts on previous discussions for the same problem.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f520...ml#post1703084
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...nt-124069.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f446...ped-94602.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f164...ue-123619.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...ix-127887.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f164...rd-140613.html

I first used the nylon spacer under the hinge approach but found that it only provided a temporary solution. The problem is that the door is only supported by two screws going horizontally from the hinge into the door. The leverage from the weight of the door along with the up/down motion from the road causes these screws to bend.

Based on a comment from one of the threads I linked to, I installed a piece of 3/8" PEX (1/2" OD) along the bottom door frame to support the full width of the door when it is closed. No more sagging.

We rarely use our shower, so I can't reply to questions on the long term potential risks of water leaks caused by the screws holding the PEX to the bottom door frame.


Greg
Sounds like a very good fix but any chance of getting a picture of that ?
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Old 11-08-2016, 08:23 AM   #11
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I had this problem after a severely washboarded road. The upper screw bent under the weight of the door. It can then slide down. However, it is supported by the full length of the hinge so it can't do anything but go straight down.

I cut a plastic bottle cap to use as a shim to get me through the trip. When I got home I made a shim out of a piece of plastic cutting board.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...or-155128.html
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Old 11-09-2016, 07:50 AM   #12
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Frustrated with "dropped" shower door?

Quote:
Originally Posted by glenrms View Post
X2- but better to use adhesive instead of screws

Perhaps but I felt that a mechanical attachment (screws) would better withstand the rigors of being pushed against when closing the door. The bottom of the door actually rubs against the top of the PEX tubing. The round cross-section of the tubing provides a narrow point of contact for an adhesive to adhere to at the door frame and naturally rolls when force is placed in the opening and closing direction. And one would have to find an adhesive that would stick to both aluminum and slick plastic. I did put a bit of sealer at each hole in the door frame before placing the PEX as well as on the underside of each screw, more so for waterproofing than adhesion.

Give it a try and let us know what you used and how it works out for the long term. Adhesive would certainly be easier than drilling precise holes evenly and in the same plane along the tubing without the aid of a drill press and V blocks. Note, the holes at the top of the PEX have to be drilled big enough to allow the head of the screw to pass through while the hole at the bottom is only drilled big enough to allow the shaft of the screw to pass.

When showering, the holes are covered by the door.

Here is a picture of my install.
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Old 11-09-2016, 08:40 AM   #13
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We had similar problems and tried similar fixes which all worked in the short term. When our shower door finally shattered on a rough road, we just took it out and now use a shower curtain. I was skeptical that the shower curtain would be acceptable but frankly I prefer it to the door as when the curtain is open (to get in and out of the shower) it does impeded access in the bath/toilet area. If I had a new Airstream, one of the first mods I would do would be to remove the shower door.
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Old 11-09-2016, 08:51 AM   #14
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I had mine fixed at the factory. Same issue on my 2014 FC and 2015 Classic. The factory cuts a piece of nylon plastic solid square tube about 1/2x1/2 by maybe 1/2-3/4 long. Drills a hole through it lengthwise and the screws it into the side wall of the door (horizontal to the bottom of the door) so that it is under the hinge side of the door.

Issue is that there is a height adjustment screw that runs down the hinge side of the door at the top (along the spine of the door). It simply isn't strong enough to support the door while we drive our rigs. Washboard roads are the worst.

Quick easy fix.
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Old 11-09-2016, 08:58 AM   #15
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I had mine fixed at the factory. Same issue on my 2014 FC and 2015 Classic. The factory cuts a piece of nylon plastic solid square tube about 1/2x1/2 by maybe 1/2-3/4 long. Drills a hole through it lengthwise and the screws it into the side wall of the door (horizontal to the bottom of the door) so that it is under the hinge side of the door.

Issue is that there is a height adjustment screw that runs down the hinge side of the door at the top (along the spine of the door). It simply isn't strong enough to support the door while we drive our rigs. Washboard roads are the worst.

Quick easy fix.
We had the factory do the same thing to our door the first time it failed. Then when that failed about a year later, we went through some of the homemade fixes described above. After the last homemade fix it was working but I could tell it was on borrowed time and I was puzzling on how to remove the door when it did eventually fail again (I think Airstream glues the metal frame to the wood panels in addition to the visible screws.) Fortunately for us, on the next trip down a rough road, the door shattered into a million pieces as tempered glass will do and our problem was solved. We love the shower curtain!
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Old 11-09-2016, 09:00 AM   #16
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Sticking with the Shower door: I have a 2000 shower door in need of a replacement door handle / lock. They don't exsit at Airstream Inc.

Where are the locks found??

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

Lou
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Old 11-10-2016, 08:28 AM   #17
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Sticking with the Shower door: I have a 2000 shower door in need of a replacement door handle / lock. They don't exsit at Airstream Inc.

Where are the locks found??

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

Lou
Try and find out who manufactured that door (perhaps there is some identification on the door or frame? Or ask Airstream directly) and if they are still in business, contact that company directly. Also, you might try Vintage Trailer Supply (http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/)
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Old 11-10-2016, 10:29 AM   #18
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Here' my shim. Cut a groove in the plastic so it is held by the ridge in the aluminum. Plus I put a dab of construction adhesive on the bottom.

Sorry the photo is rotated, I can't get it turned!
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Old 11-10-2016, 11:39 AM   #19
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I forgot to add that you should also put a shim on the opening side of the door. I have one on each side. That way the door is supported while it is closed. Without the opening side shim there is still a great deal of stress put on the door while driving.
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Old 11-12-2020, 11:47 AM   #20
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Thanks for all the potential solutions. I have recently experienced this same problem. After 11 years of ownership, I have learned to roll with the punches, or the earthquakes as we roll down the highway, but I find this problem highly annoying. I will try the spacer first but I like the Pex solution as well.
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