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Old 03-28-2017, 04:55 AM   #1
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1973 25' Tradewind
Deland , Florida
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Fantastic fan upgrade using old (1973) vent housing

Yes, it will work. Took a chance and ordered the fan motor/ blade/ bracket kit for $40 and also ordered the 7350 upgrade kit for $150. I figured I would throw it out there in case anyone else was wondering. I am adamant about keeping everything as original as possible but the OEM shrouds are NLA. I think the fan blades might be NLA as well. Plus, I wanted the variable speed, remote, and thermostat feature. My vent motor has never worked (I've had the AS for over 10 years now) and I suspect that it was as loud as the range hood fan. No way I would be able to sleep with THAT thing running! Anyway, if there is interest, I will gladly put up some pictures and details on my installation. I started installing it yesterday. Fan is mounted and it blows a CRAZY amount of air out of the vent so I know the core idea is sound. I just need to trim it out. Hopefully I will get to finish mounting the original light panel and light cover in the next few days. When I am done, you wont be able to tell from inside or outside the AS that I have a 920 CFM remote-controlled fantastic fan hidden inside the front vent. Modern features with original facade. Perfect.
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Old 03-28-2017, 05:02 AM   #2
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2018 27' Globetrotter
1976 25' Tradewind
Flushing , Michigan
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I'm interested in your application and installation. I would like to do what you have done for both the front and rear vents in our 25' 1976 TradeWind Land Yacht. Photos and specifics as to the model you used would be appreciated. Thanks for raising the topic.
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Old 03-28-2017, 05:55 AM   #3
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I'm also interested in seeing pictures of this. Sounds like an interesting mod that a lot of other restorers would like to try.
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Old 03-28-2017, 09:32 AM   #4
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Cool. I will post pics ASAP. I will say that I finished trimming it out this morning and everything fits perfectly. The only snag I had was that I pulled the wires off the circuit board, thinking that there would be a wiring diagram in the destructions, only to find that there was nothing mentioned. Tried to hook it back up from memory and fried the board. Just spoke to the place I ordered everything from and got a price of $40 for the circuit board. Idiot. Anyway, it works as on/off setup until new board comes in. Argh.
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:01 AM   #5
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1968 20' Globetrotter
ANN ARBOR , THE GREAT LAKES
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Hi There,

Keeping your trailer in the vein of originality is never a bad idea. Hawging out the vintage vents to install modern fans isn't for everyone. There's an elegance to those old assemblies that some appreciate.

In the middle of this thread is where a 1967 vent was modified for a FF.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f455...er-124426.html

I took a different approach. I added a radiator fan to my front vent, which had no fan. It's fairly well concealed within the original vent housing and could be removed someday with no trace. It sounds crude, but does not look out of place. I wired it as a two-speed, that blows in or out.
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:25 AM   #6
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1973 25' Tradewind
Deland , Florida
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Started by removing the light panel. Then drilled out the four 3/16" rivets that secured the two aluminum bars that the old motor and shroud attached to. I had a stick of aluminum angle that measured 1" x 2". Cut two sticks at 6.6" each. It just so happened that 2" up from the inside edge of the lip on the vent housing put the motor just low enough to clear the vent arms while keeping the motor as high in the housing as possible. Fan blade will still protrude past the lower vent edge but I resolved that. Centered the aluminum brackets, through drilled into the vent housing (part that sticks up above exterior of camper) and pop riveted with two 1/8" rivets on each bracket from outside camper. One drop of Vulkem on each rivet head to seal. Now I had the brackets to mount the fan motor "bowtie" bracket to. I removed the blade from the motor to make things easier. My blade was very difficult to remove to the point I thought it might break. Be careful. Backing the screw out a little and tapping LIGHTLY with small hammer is how I ended up getting it off. Put a little silicone spray to make it easier to get on and off as I proceeded. Held the motor in place, with blade temporarily installed, centered in vent, and marked mounting holes. Drilled marked holes in brackets, and riveted bracket in place with 1/8" rivets. Dont go bigger than 1/8"-the increased pressure from larger rivet may crack bracket plastic. 1/8" are plenty strong.
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:40 AM   #7
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1973 25' Tradewind
Deland , Florida
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sorry for the sore necks. I don't know why they are like that. THey are not on my PC like that.
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Old 03-28-2017, 02:35 PM   #8
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1973 25' Tradewind
Redding , California
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links?

This is EXACTLY what I want to do to my 1973 Tradewind. Can you link the parts you used? This is awesome.
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Old 03-28-2017, 02:49 PM   #9
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2004 25' Safari
1968 17' Caravel
Fountain Valley , California
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I am interested in following your install as I have a '68 Airstream that I recently purchased a FanTastic vent fan for. I haven't got to installing it yet as I've been working on solar, etc.

One thing, if you haven't already done it, contact customer service for the FanTastic vent fan and request the trim package for an airstream (curved inside trim).

They have always provided them free of charge when you purchase a new FanTastic fan. (I received two when I had fans installed in my 2004 AS, and one for this install for the '68 AS).
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Old 03-28-2017, 03:08 PM   #10
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That is an awesome mod. Thank you so much for sharing. Really nice work.
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Old 03-28-2017, 04:30 PM   #11
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Tipp City , Ohio
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Please share the part numbers and source for this project.
I definitely want to do the same thing.
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Old 03-28-2017, 04:31 PM   #12
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1973 25' Tradewind
Deland , Florida
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Thanks for the positive interest. And I apologize in advance for the run-on sentences, various digressions, and sideways photos. Leadvox, I will be providing a complete parts list as well as tools used. WindyJim, I did look into the AS-specific trim for the vent but as far as I know, it does not use the original light lenses. I may be mistaken. And it was really important to me to use the original aluminum vent covers. They look so cool to me. I am also getting ready to go solar but I want to use the Ecoworthy suitcase panels so I can park under the trees but still charge with the panels out in the sun. Damn, I'm wandering off topic. I will be posting the remaining photos and info tomorrow morning. Cya then.
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Old 03-28-2017, 07:54 PM   #13
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Will the original screens fit over the new fan?
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:47 AM   #14
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1973 25' Tradewind
Deland , Florida
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let me start by emphasizing something that has become very clear to me. DO NOT DAMAGE ANY PART OF THE 7350 UPGRADE ELECTRONICS! I got a call back from the supplier yesterday and the price on the circuit board is around 35-40 bucks but get this-Dometic (parent company of Attwood/ Fantastic Fan) has to MAKE the board and it is at least a 30 day lead time. I also tried to get part numbers and pricing on the temp sensor and IR sensor but those part numbers are not available for replacement. THat means that if you damage either one, you will need to order an ENTIRE upgrade kit to replace! I suppose if your google-fu is good, you may be able to source the parts at Digikey or Octopart but its easier just to not damage the parts.

Let me back up here a second. My front vent had a OEM fan that was turned on when the vent was opened past a certain point which closes a micro-switch. That switch operates the negative leg, BTW, not the positive leg. My thought was to just put the fantastic fan guts inside my original vent and be done. On, off, one speed, one direction, that's it. Well, then I saw the 7350 upgrade kit which adds a remote (very cool if I want to control the fan without getting my lazy ass up) but much more importantly, gives me 13 speeds, reverse, and wait for it.... A THERMOSTAT! My wife and I almost exclusively boondock so power conservation is important. Cool thing with the upgrade kit is that I wouldn't have to figure out how to conceal a reverse switch, fan speed switch, ect. It's all done by the circuit board. I figured I should be able to hide that easily. Question was the size of everything. That was the gamble. So I ordered the stuff. Here are the part numbers:

Attwood K8017-00 Fan-Tastic vent motor with blade and bowtie.
This is just what it says. Apparently there was an earlier version of this that used a "can" motor. Motor is black and taller. I doubt this would fit under the vent cover so make sure you get the newer style with the "pancake" motor. Also the can motor was less efficient from what I understand. You can get the K8017-00 kit all day long on the web for under $30.

Fan-Tastic Vent 7350 upgrade kit-I got mine for $140.
Look around on the web. you'll find it. Now this kit is going to come with the remote and a shroud. The shroud has the dome opening motor, control circuit board, temp sensor, and IR remote sensor attached to it. Both sensors are secured with a dab of hot glue. Warm the area GENTLY and they will pop right off. They are attached to the circuit board with quick connect plugs. More on that later. The circuit board is secured with two screws. Remove the board and sensors and store them away safely. There is also a fuse holder in the shroud but I am going to use a ATC-4 fuse instead for mine. A .250 female spade connector will slip right onto the fuse tabs and a short piece of electrical tape to keep things from touching and VOILA! and ez inline fuse. I do it all the time with air conditioners. Anyway. I originally thought I would use the shroud that came with the kit but if you look at the fan blade, it has an outer ring which acts as a shroud. I powered the fan barebones as you see in the first couple photos and checked on the roof for airflow. It was was cranking out air so I scrapped the shroud idea. Not before wasting time trying to get the damn thing to fit. Oh well, your gain. It might seem a waste to toss out the dome lifting arm, drive motor, shroud, snap-in screen, and rain sensor, but there is no cheaper way to get the other goodies.

So now the fan is installed. It protrudes below the lower vent edge but that's no biggie. Next, I cut a piece of flat metal the EXACT same size as the original light panel. Drilled the hole for the vent actuator crank rod, placed it against the roof using the dirt lines for placement, and marked the center of the motor shaft. I used a sheet metal hole cutter that is designed for metal duct work to cut the hole exactly 1/4" bigger than the fan blade. If you make the marks, any sheet metal shop can make this panel for you. Placed the panel and riveted it in place. I guess you could call it a shroud but I would say its more a divider maintaining the high and low pressure sides of the fan. Semantics I suppose.
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