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Old 09-17-2015, 10:01 AM   #15
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Pressure Reducing City Water Entry (Wall Mount) - Gel White | Water Entries

65psi.

I keep my Watts adjusted to 60psi at the spigot.
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Old 09-17-2015, 10:23 AM   #16
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Rich, thank you
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Old 09-17-2015, 12:08 PM   #17
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I found thru experience, and a lotta trial and error, that a water pressure regulator that attaches to the shore hose bib is not enough. I've seen parks where daytime water pressure is 60 psi; and nighttime pressure is 90 psi.

Your garden variety water pressure regulator (on hose bib) simply won't withstand those pressures for very long. In addition to a pressure regulator, to be safe, what you need is a pressure relief valve (where excess water pressure is leaked onto the ground).

My '77 AS came standard equipped with a Watts regulator and pressure relief valve. I've since added an internal pressure gauge so I can adjust incoming water psi to my liking (40 psi and 45 psi, respectively). I also have a gauge that attaches to the hose bib. The psi readings on those gauges will shock you.

The following links will give you a better idea of what I'm talking about.

Tom

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Watts-3-4-in-Plastic-Water-Pressure-Test-Gauge-DP-IWTG/100175467

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-100-psi-Pressure-Gauge-EBM1002-4L/205617969

http://www.grainger.com/product/WATTS-Water-Pressure-Regulator-Valve-26X116?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/26X116_AS01?$smthumb$

http://www.grainger.com/product/WATTS-Lead-Free-Brass-Calibrated-WP98845/_/N-mwy?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/5DLZ1_AS01?$smthumb$
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Old 09-17-2015, 12:21 PM   #18
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After traveling most of the summer in 9 states the only BAD water pressure was at Coulter Bay RV park. the water pressure blew out my AS regulator and my water hose was shot before I knew it.

The only place to get it fix was in Denver, CO a week later. While I was at the AS dealership get a replacement the service manager told me that they replace these a lot. It was under warranties and only took 30 minutes to replace, the part is under $50 and is easy to replace.

I ask all camp grounds about water pressure and was told that it was ok, I have order a more heavy duty fresh water hoses and will be getting an outside regulator for the out side faucet. You do have a back-up by filling your fresh water tank until repair is needed.
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Old 09-17-2015, 01:22 PM   #19
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hose regulators

Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Keith, two problems with the AS internal one.

1) doesn't protect your hose (no biggie????? you be the judge)
2) the AS ones are plastic and prone to leaking (which I suspect is due to a high pressure event) This creates floor rot if it is a small leak over time and a mess if it is a large leak. I re-sealed mine and started using a brass Watts at the spigot. Everything, including the original AS regulator are now protected. Many folks remove the plastic AS one, and I probably will next time I have a reason to disassemble that area for repair or maintenance.
Thanks, Keith for the warning...I'm an AS newbie (23 FC) and had been relying on the internal regulator. Now I'll play it safe.
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Old 09-17-2015, 02:32 PM   #20
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I don't know about other vintage A/S's but our '67 has a brass pressure regulator. I hope it never goes bad because it is in an inaccessible place behind the toilet. So far it hasn't. Like KJRitchie, when using a regulator at the faucet in addition to the original built in regulator, pressure inside was too low. Ambient heat shouldn't over pressure the piping inside because the safety valve on the water heater would open to relieve the excess pressure. The water pump would probably relieve the excess pressure even before that.
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:11 PM   #21
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Usually the problem seems to be low pressure. A device to boost the pressure would be nice to have.
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:15 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
Usually the problem seems to be low pressure. A device to boost the pressure would be nice to have.
When that's the problem, fill the fresh tank and use the pump and city water when you need the pressure....like for a shower. One of these days, I'm going to install a pump bypass so I can keep the fresh tank filled without disconnecting and pulling the hose around to the fill port.
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:32 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post

Snip...
One of these days, I'm going to install a pump bypass so I can keep the fresh tank filled without disconnecting and pulling the hose around to the fill port.

Do you have an outdoor shower on your trailer? If I want to add fresh water at a camp where I'm connected to city water, I just remove the shower head from my outdoor shower, put that hose in to my fresh tank and open the cold outdoor shower spigot. No need to disconnect the city hose and drag it to the other side.

You may be talking about something else so if I missed that, my apologies...
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:44 PM   #24
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No, Steve, That's brilliant...but I have no outside shower and my tank fill is curbside. I do have a standard stick house type hose bib in a lower compartment...but it is streetside.
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
When that's the problem, fill the fresh tank and use the pump and city water when you need the pressure....like for a shower. One of these days, I'm going to install a pump bypass so I can keep the fresh tank filled without disconnecting and pulling the hose around to the fill port.
Thanks, I have done that a few times for showers.

My trailer came with a box of plumbing goodies. Got digging thru it today and found this. Guess I have an external pressure regulator after all.

Same as this
Amazon.com: Camco 40053 Brass Water Pressure Regulator: Automotive
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:28 AM   #26
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Is the on board AS regulator just inside the fill connection and easy to replace? I am in Florida and have 40# at the hose, but not enough pressure to flush the toilet inside, so I am thinking the onboard regulator has gone bad. I have '07 Classic Limited.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:38 AM   #27
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Yes, just on the inside wall from the fresh water hose connection.
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Old 02-10-2016, 03:09 PM   #28
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Do I need a water pressure regulator when hooking up to water at an RV campsite to fill up my fresh water tank? I've heard that it will serve as added protection from damage to my plumbing if there is too much water pressure at the site.
No regulator is necessary when filling the tank. It's not pressurized, so you turn the hose off manually when it's full, and then you're good for at least a day or two.

But usually, if you're staying at a campsite where water is available, you don't use the tank, instead, you use the city water connection on your trailer. For that, pressure is only rarely a problem.

In six years of traveling I've run into one campground that had a problem with high pressure water, and they had signs up to that effect, saying it was 100 PSI and you should use a regulator on the campground tap, or just fill your freshwater tank instead of using the city water connection. They had regulators for sale in the office.

My trailer has a built-in pressure regulator but I found that the hose would drip no matter what I did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
When that's the problem, fill the fresh tank and use the pump and city water when you need the pressure....like for a shower.
Noise and flow rate are the main problems.

Quote:
One of these days, I'm going to install a pump bypass so I can keep the fresh tank filled without disconnecting and pulling the hose around to the fill port.
Be sure you put in an overflow. A badly overfilled freshwater tank can not only burst, it can damage the frame and floor too.
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