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FranM · 10-11-2018, 04:32 PM

Very weird thing, we’re hooked up to city water and suddenly noticed water pouring from the locked fresh water tank door. When we turn off the spigot in the CG the water stopped pouring out. How is water getting into the fresh water storage tank from our water connection???

Alumaholic · 10-11-2018, 04:45 PM

The backflow prevention valve in the water pump failed.
Troublesome for you, but not unusual.
Often caused by too much water pressure at campground.
Depending on which pump you have, it is usually easiest to replace entire pump, a 30 minute job.

MontyV · 10-11-2018, 04:46 PM

there is an inline valve in the water system. it is either stuck or bad. you can likely look up the location for your particular TT online and then decide if you can check/replace it yourself.

OTRA15 · 10-11-2018, 05:01 PM

Try these "pump check valve bad" search results:

https://www.google.com/search?q=pump...com&gws_rd=ssl

Good luck,

Peter

uncle_bob · 10-11-2018, 05:03 PM

Hi

Before you go to crazy, check the strainer on the fresh water pump. If it's full of crud, that's a good sign that the valve may be equally full of stuff. Clean the strainer. Dump a tank of clean water out the drain valve. Then flush out the pump and see if that solves the problem.

Bob

dougfrank · 10-12-2018, 09:10 AM

The check valve inside the water pump has failed, thereby allowing water to flow into your fresh tank. When that that tank is full it overflows out the fresh water tank inlet. This has happened to me twice in 8 months in a new 2018 23' FB. Rep'ace the pump.

Ahuka · 10-12-2018, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alumaholic

The backflow prevention valve in the water pump failed.
Troublesome for you, but not unusual.
Often caused by too much water pressure at campground.
Depending on which pump you have, it is usually easiest to replace entire pump, a 30 minute job.

You should get yourself a pressure regulator. They are not that expensive. A water pressure regulator is like the equivalent of a surge protector for your electric (which you should also have).

rmkrum · 10-12-2018, 10:48 AM

Before you haul off and replace the pump, try 'burping' it to reseat the check valve:

Turn shore water supply off. Turn on your water pump, then run water from a convenient faucet, like the kitchen sink for a minute or two, to make the pump run. Turn the water off for a moment, until the pump stops, then repeat this process a couple times.

The idea is to flush grit or whatever debris is in there out of the check valve in the pump.

Once you have completed this, reconnect the shore water hose, and turn it back on. See if it behaves. If so, it's good to go. If it still leaks, time to overhaoul or replace the pump, your choice...

Two (three) things to consider: To keep debris and grit out of your water system, ALWAYS use a water filter on the hose when you hook up to shore water OR fill the water tank. To prevent over-pressure problems, use a quality adjustable pressure regulator with a gauge at the campground spigot. Set it to about 30-40 pounds maximum to protect your hose and plumbing. Examples below are what I use...

Water filter and short hose:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePU...ith+hose&psc=1

Elbow to take some strain off your inlet fitting:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Degree-...ter+fill+elbow

Decent quality adjustable water pressure regulator:

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-...sure+regulator

NOTE: there are simpler and cheaper pressure regulators with a gauge that are NOT adjustable. They restrict water flow a lot, and will not work well in campgrounds with low water pressure, or flow enough water if you have a tankless water heater like I do. Spend a few bucks to get a good one. Lead-free is also a decent idea especially if you have kids.

CruizinDux · 10-12-2018, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Try these "pump check valve bad" search results:

https://www.google.com/search?q=pump...com&gws_rd=ssl

Good luck,

Peter

I suspect this advice is in some of threads in Peter's link but often running the pump with the CW off will clear the pump's check valve of debris causing the leakage back to the tank. Worth a try before the new pump.I

Silver Otter · 10-12-2018, 07:19 PM

Hi - Like many caravaners, we live off our fresh water tank and pump all the time. Our pump is nice and quiet, and constantly re-filling the on board tank keeps it fresh and clean. Even when we are camping in a FHU site, I'll use the filtered hose from CG water to fill the tank, not run the coach. This also prevents an overload to the system if the CG water pressure spikes, without the use of a restriction valve. That said, use a high quality, adjustable restriction valve if/when you connect the coach to CG water. Your mileage may vary. We just like it this way.

KJRitchie · 10-21-2018, 04:44 PM

I’m having the same problem, just notivpce this today. Doesn’t the onboard water regulator prevent over pressure? I’m going to use our water pump, Shurflow 4008, to draw the water tank down to 50% then I’ll turn on the city water. I use an inline water filter and an On the Go water softener bottle ever since installing the Shurflow a year ago. Worse case is I order the check valve kit.

Kelvin

Kelvin

TG Twinkie · 10-21-2018, 05:30 PM

If you have relatively easy access to the pump discharge line. It does not have to be right at the pump. Just in the main water line ahead of any connections to the sinks, toilet and shower.
Why not install a shut off valve? Simply close the valve when on city water.
Problem of backflow to the FW tank solved.
When I installed PEX in my Argosy I did just that. Even though I did not have a backflow problem.

uncle_bob · 10-22-2018, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I’m having the same problem, just notivpce this today. Doesn’t the onboard water regulator prevent over pressure? I’m going to use our water pump, Shurflow 4008, to draw the water tank down to 50% then I’ll turn on the city water. I use an inline water filter and an On the Go water softener bottle ever since installing the Shurflow a year ago. Worse case is I order the check valve kit.

Kelvin

Kelvin

Hi

The pressure regulator at the city water input will drop the campground water pressure down to some magic number (maybe 60 PSI, maybe something else). That assumes it is intact and not jammed up with something. Since it's out in the breeze, it's one of the bits on the trailer that can freeze running down the road in the winter. It also can get crud in it a variety of ways. Finally, nothing like that lasts forever and ever, even in the best of conditions.

The back flow on the water pump is equally prone to crud and wear. Who knows which one goes first .... the result is pretty much the same either way. A pressure gauge on the water lines would help you work out what's what.

Bob

KJRitchie · 10-24-2018, 11:37 AM

I ran the water tank down from 100% to 79% (SeeLevel system) and turned the city water back on. Over 3 hours I monitored the system and it stayed at 79%. We ran the pump for toilet, kitchen and a shower so maybe the pumps check valve has reseated correctly. Back on pump now to run the tank down even more so I can do a 24 hr test.

I checked the water pump strainer and ther is no debris. I remember checking the strainer a year ago and it was clean too.

Kelvin

FranM · 10-25-2018, 08:12 AM

Thank you, everyone. We did as suggested, turned off city water then pumped the holding tank down, and it solved the problem. Our question is, however, shouldn't the onboard pressure regulator take care of the issue?
Thanks, again. As always, extremely helpful!

TG Twinkie · 10-25-2018, 10:08 AM

NO. The pressure regulator only limits the water pressure.
It is in line with the city water connection.
The check valve is in the pump. If it leaks water will flow backward thru it and enter the FW tank.

uncle_bob · 10-26-2018, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

NO. The pressure regulator only limits the water pressure.
It is in line with the city water connection.
The check valve is in the pump. If it leaks water will flow backward thru it and enter the FW tank.

Hi

Yes, this gets a bit crazy as we each answer very different questions. So, just to be complete ....

There are two independent check valves in the system. Both have to work all the time or you have trouble. One check valve (in the pump) takes care of water flowing back into the fresh water tank). The other check valve (in the city water pressure regulator) takes care of water flowing from the trailer out onto the street ( no city water hooked up) or back into the city supply (when water is hooked up).

Equally, you have two independent pressure regulator devices on the trailer. One is built into the water pump and shuts it off when pressure is up to some magic point. It should just sit there doing nothing when you are on city water. The other regulator is at the city water input. It only works when city water is hooked up. Running on the pump it just sits there.

Yes, this is only talking about a "typical" modern trailer. My trailer has one more overpressure valve in it. There likely was an era when back flow valves were done slightly differently (but with exactly the same result). Who knows how long built in city water regulators have been part of the mix ....

Bob

TG Twinkie · 10-26-2018, 11:57 AM

I don't believe there is a check valve in the city water regulator.
Typically the city check valve is located just behind the city inlet. You will see what looks like a white button just behind the inlet filter screen.
When the pump is on and the system is up to pressure this pressure holds the city water inlet check valve closed to prevent backflow out thru the city water connection.

rmkrum · 10-26-2018, 12:13 PM

TG, you are correct--the backflow preventer is right behind the city water inlet fitting, and looks like a white button. Sometimes it can get a bit of grit in it and fail to seal. Then water drrols out of the connector when the pump is on... Another good reason to filter all water coming into the AS.

The 12 volt water pumps nowadays have a backflow valve built in, that can have the same issue with grit in the water-thus filtering the water you put in the tank is a darn fine idea. If this sticks, the fresh tank tends to fill automagically when on city water...

KJRitchie · 10-27-2018, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I ran the water tank down from 100% to 79% (SeeLevel system) and turned the city water back on. Over 3 hours I monitored the system and it stayed at 79%. We ran the pump for toilet, kitchen and a shower so maybe the pumps check valve has reseated correctly. Back on pump now to run the tank down even more so I can do a 24 hr test.

I checked the water pump strainer and ther is no debris. I remember checking the strainer a year ago and it was clean too.

Kelvin

After performing a 24hr test all seemed well until I moved to a another campsite in the same campground and hooked up the city water. Level went from 29 to 33 and raising slowly. I have an external inline regulator that I just put on to see if it’s a bad internal regulator. The Shurflow 4008 pressurizes to 55psi. If the campground pressure is higher maybe the check valve opens?

Kelvin