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Ddanielgriff · 07-02-2013, 07:01 PM

The plumbing right after the city water inlet has leaked and rotted the floor underneath. I need to replace the sub-floor, but first I was wondering if I could simplify this set-up and update it with some new piping. I do not have a lot of plumbing experience...so first off, what am I looking at in these pictures? They all look like pressure regulators to me, but I would be curious as to why there were 3. the 2 smaller valves are at the beginning of 2 smaller pipes leading elsewhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Aage · 07-02-2013, 07:09 PM

If these are photos from the "trunk" of your Sov, the two smaller ones are low-point drains, used to winterize your trailer.

And yes, the large one is the regulator, to limit water pressure entering the trailer.

Okiestreamer · 07-03-2013, 03:27 PM

I have a '74 Sovereign rear bath and just finished replacing the copper with PEX. I've attached a copy of a page from my service manual showing plumbing details. Hopefully, this will help you understand what is shown in your pics. If you are going to do much work on your AS a service manual is the best tool you can have. Replacing the copper with PEX isn't that difficult but it can be expensive. There are two changes I would recommend if you change the copper. One is install a Hot Water tank bypass kit and the other is to install a faucet so the water pump can pump antifreeze throughout the plumbing system.

Ddanielgriff · 07-04-2013, 11:47 AM

Thanks guys. Things are becoming a little clearer. You are right about the pex being expensive, so I think I will just redo the back part and leave the copper that runs from the back to the middle. Eventually I will replace the water heater and pump as well, but for now I just need to be able to get a floor down in the back.

dcastron · 08-04-2013, 03:43 PM

Hello everyone,

I am new to this club. We just purchased this 31 ft center bath Airstream knowing it leaked water when the hose was attached.

When we turm on the water it leaks really bad in the center of the trailer and you can see water underr the sink area where the valves are located. You can see the water flowing from the right side under the sink. I was hoping someone may have the plumbing schematics to this unit and praying I don't have to lift the floor up to access anything. Any ideas?

Thank you,

David

idroba · 08-04-2013, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ddanielgriff

Thanks guys. Things are becoming a little clearer. You are right about the pex being expensive, so I think I will just redo the back part and leave the copper that runs from the back to the middle. Eventually I will replace the water heater and pump as well, but for now I just need to be able to get a floor down in the back.

Actually PEX pipe is very inexpensive as are the fittings, if you use the crimp type. However that requires a crimping tool, and they are about $50. It is somewhat hard to use in confined quarters. The other alternative is Sharkbite type fittings, which are just push on, but each fitting is in the range of $5-$7.

Home Depot, and Lowe's both stock the materials. PEX comes in Red and Blue too, which is handy to identify the hot and cold lines. About $30 for 100'

fcutler · 08-11-2013, 11:59 AM

did you run 1/2" or 3/4" PEX? I have been leaning toward 3/4 with only 1/2 short lines to the bathroom sink and shower, or would you recommend 3/4 throughout?

BoCox · 08-11-2013, 12:30 PM

Why 3/4? Campsites are 1/2 supply lines at the spigot. Faucets have 3/8 interior constuction. They are supplied by 3/8 supply lines from 1/2 main lines. 3/4 lines to me make zero sense. IMHO of course.

Minno · 08-12-2013, 11:08 AM

1/2" main lines are fine for your trailer. A problem with 3/4" is that you just doubled the volume of water you need to run through the plumbing to get hot water from the water heater to the fixture. Not a big deal in a house, but in an rv, not good. Also, you'll find that your water pump has 1/2" fittings. If you then connect that to a 3/4" pipe, you just reduced the effective pressure that the pump can supply to the trailer.

Chris

TG Twinkie · 08-12-2013, 12:15 PM

Not only that. But it takes a lot more anti freeze to winterize.
1/2" is more than enough.

Argentina1 · 10-15-2023, 11:17 PM

I am new here and I don’t know if what I am experiencing is related to the current threads…
I bought a 31 1975 Sovereign. The person I bought it didn’t know anything about the mechanics and I didn’t know what to ask.
I do not know where the Gray water release valve is.
It has a compost toilet.
I am looking at the photos above and cannot make out what it means.

When I run the water inside the trailer it does not exit the hose I have hooked up to the sewer.

She also left the black tank full nearly which was a surprise to me.

I do not know what to do.

Thank you so much everyone!

4RXLA · 10-16-2023, 12:26 AM

Is the bathroom on the side or in the rear of the trailer? If in the rear, both dump valves should be in the back hatch. If on the side, both should be in the vicinity of the sewer house outlet on the underside of the trailer. The tanks and valves are inside the belly pan to protect from freezing.

Minno · 10-16-2023, 07:42 AM

If it has a composting toilet, your trailer has been modified. It's possible the "grey" tank is actually the black tank, although by 1975, I understand they had installed grey tanks (unlike our '72 which had no grey tank). The grey tank and black might have been ganged together. Definitely a puzzle.

Kay

Argentina1 · 10-17-2023, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4RXLA

Is the bathroom on the side or in the rear of the trailer? If in the rear, both dump valves should be in the back hatch. If on the side, both should be in the vicinity of the sewer house outlet on the underside of the trailer. The tanks and valves are inside the belly pan to protect from freezing.

Oh my gosh thank you for your response.

The bathroom is on the passenger side of the trailer.
The sewer hook up is on the opposite side.
There are two valves on each side of the sewer hook up, I gently pulled out both valves and no water came through.

I have attached 2 photos to help explain better.

The city water hose hook up is on the right side of the trailer with a lever in front of it.

I am so confused.

I appreciate you so much.

Andie

Argentina1 · 10-17-2023, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Minno

If it has a composting toilet, your trailer has been modified. It's possible the "grey" tank is actually the black tank, although by 1975, I understand they had installed grey tanks (unlike our '72 which had no grey tank). The grey tank and black might have been ganged together. Definitely a puzzle.

Kay

Definitely a puzzle and I have not been good with puzzles.

I feel you are accurate about the two being together. The release valves are on each side of the sewer connection do nothin though.

I will be putting in a real toliet in as soon this is figured out.

The water is going somewhere.

I have read that the earlier models allowed the grey water to run on the ground.
This isn’t one of those models.

Kay I am so disappointed in myself for not having her show me what’s what.

I appreciate you and if you could think of anything else, please advise.

Andie

4RXLA · 10-17-2023, 01:57 PM

You have the black and gray dump valves and city water intake. The composting toilet could be sitting on top of the toilet flange which likely was capped or covered when the composting toilet was installed. As for the gray water tank, I agree the water has to be going somewhere. Your sink drains and shower drain have to be going into that gray tank. Look under the bathroom sink to see if you can see the drain pipes going into the floor.

Minno · 10-18-2023, 07:57 AM

Actually, the bathroom sink MIGHT be going into the black tank, especially considering the trailer's been modified. We deliberately plumbed our trailer that way when we renovated. Maybe you could snake your dump valves. It's possible they are blocked somehow or broken and not opening when you open them.

Kay

Argentina1 · 10-18-2023, 03:09 PM

I stopped running the water days ago because I didn’t want to ruin anything because I don’t know where it is. I didn’t want to mess anything up without getting confirmation from someone smarter than me. I disconnected the city water from the trailer days ago.

What would be the process to snake the dump valves ?

That actually makes sense that could be the issue because there is some play sash movement with both of those towels but there’s nothing happening and I don’t want to pull them too hard.

The lever that is next to the city water hook up under the trailer is that a shut off valve?

It makes so much sense that is one tank for both gray and black.

The goal is to put a real toilet in place of compost. The kitchen faucet sprays so I don’t keep the water running because I don’t want it leaking and damaging anything bathroom faucet perfect showers dismantled I’m redoing.

There are pipes or what looks like water lines under the bathroom sink. I wanted to upload an image.

The trailer has only been here a week before that. I had it winterized and parked.

Minno · 10-19-2023, 07:36 AM

To snake the dump valves, you would open the valves one at a time, and run a plumbing snake up from the exit of the dump until you couldn't go any farther. If there's an obstruction it can punch through, you'll start getting fluid out. If it hits an obstruction and can't go any further after a short distance, you probably have a valve that's stuck or broken. Check the plumbing vent from roof down also, although that shouldn't totally prevent the tanks from draining. They do get obstructed sometimes, though.

Kay

dznf0g · 10-19-2023, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Minno

To snake the dump valves, you would open the valves one at a time, and run a plumbing snake up from the exit of the dump until you couldn't go any farther. If there's an obstruction it can punch through, you'll start getting fluid out. If it hits an obstruction and can't go any further after a short distance, you probably have a valve that's stuck or broken. Check the plumbing vent from roof down also, although that shouldn't totally prevent the tanks from draining. They do get obstructed sometimes, though.

Kay

I recently bought a dryer vent brush with flexible rods. Not sure if it is the tool of choice for a clog, but works well to clean the valve area. I had a dripping leak in the black valve and it was hard to operate. Ran the brush up there, chucked in a drill on low speed. Followed up with the silicone spray access hole in the blade housing. Slides freely and no more leak.