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Old 07-02-2013, 08:01 PM   #1
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1975 31' Sovereign
Memphis , Tennessee
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Water pipes and unknown fixtures- 1975 31' Sovereign

The plumbing right after the city water inlet has leaked and rotted the floor underneath. I need to replace the sub-floor, but first I was wondering if I could simplify this set-up and update it with some new piping. I do not have a lot of plumbing experience...so first off, what am I looking at in these pictures? They all look like pressure regulators to me, but I would be curious as to why there were 3. the 2 smaller valves are at the beginning of 2 smaller pipes leading elsewhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:09 PM   #2
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If these are photos from the "trunk" of your Sov, the two smaller ones are low-point drains, used to winterize your trailer.

And yes, the large one is the regulator, to limit water pressure entering the trailer.
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Old 07-03-2013, 04:27 PM   #3
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1999 25' Safari
Adair , Oklahoma
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Plumbing Diagram

I have a '74 Sovereign rear bath and just finished replacing the copper with PEX. I've attached a copy of a page from my service manual showing plumbing details. Hopefully, this will help you understand what is shown in your pics. If you are going to do much work on your AS a service manual is the best tool you can have. Replacing the copper with PEX isn't that difficult but it can be expensive. There are two changes I would recommend if you change the copper. One is install a Hot Water tank bypass kit and the other is to install a faucet so the water pump can pump antifreeze throughout the plumbing system.
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:47 PM   #4
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1975 31' Sovereign
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Thanks guys. Things are becoming a little clearer. You are right about the pex being expensive, so I think I will just redo the back part and leave the copper that runs from the back to the middle. Eventually I will replace the water heater and pump as well, but for now I just need to be able to get a floor down in the back.
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:43 PM   #5
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1975 Airstream Soverign water leak

Hello everyone,

I am new to this club. We just purchased this 31 ft center bath Airstream knowing it leaked water when the hose was attached.

When we turm on the water it leaks really bad in the center of the trailer and you can see water underr the sink area where the valves are located. You can see the water flowing from the right side under the sink. I was hoping someone may have the plumbing schematics to this unit and praying I don't have to lift the floor up to access anything. Any ideas?

Thank you,

David
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ddanielgriff View Post
Thanks guys. Things are becoming a little clearer. You are right about the pex being expensive, so I think I will just redo the back part and leave the copper that runs from the back to the middle. Eventually I will replace the water heater and pump as well, but for now I just need to be able to get a floor down in the back.
Actually PEX pipe is very inexpensive as are the fittings, if you use the crimp type. However that requires a crimping tool, and they are about $50. It is somewhat hard to use in confined quarters. The other alternative is Sharkbite type fittings, which are just push on, but each fitting is in the range of $5-$7.

Home Depot, and Lowe's both stock the materials. PEX comes in Red and Blue too, which is handy to identify the hot and cold lines. About $30 for 100'
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:59 PM   #7
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did you run 1/2" or 3/4" PEX? I have been leaning toward 3/4 with only 1/2 short lines to the bathroom sink and shower, or would you recommend 3/4 throughout?
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Old 08-11-2013, 01:30 PM   #8
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Why 3/4? Campsites are 1/2 supply lines at the spigot. Faucets have 3/8 interior constuction. They are supplied by 3/8 supply lines from 1/2 main lines. 3/4 lines to me make zero sense. IMHO of course.
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Old 08-12-2013, 12:08 PM   #9
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1/2" main lines are fine for your trailer. A problem with 3/4" is that you just doubled the volume of water you need to run through the plumbing to get hot water from the water heater to the fixture. Not a big deal in a house, but in an rv, not good. Also, you'll find that your water pump has 1/2" fittings. If you then connect that to a 3/4" pipe, you just reduced the effective pressure that the pump can supply to the trailer.

Chris
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:15 PM   #10
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Not only that. But it takes a lot more anti freeze to winterize.
1/2" is more than enough.
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