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Old 03-19-2012, 09:16 PM   #1
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2000 27' Safari
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water dripping from city water hose attachment location when NOT hooked up to city wa

When I am NOT hooked up to city water, but am instead using my water pump and fresh water tank, I get water dripping from the spot where I would otherwise connect a city water hose on the outside of my trailer (1999 Safari 27'). Could this be the cause of my water pump kicking on briefly every minute or so? Someone has suggested the dripping water may be due to a faulty backflow preventer located next to the Watts N35B pressure reducing valve in the storage area above the rear bumper. What does this backflow preventer look like? Is replacing it a do-it-yourself project? Should I replace the Watts pressure reducing valve (now 13 years old) at the same time? I understand the Watts N35B is no longer available -- can someone suggest an alternative? Thank you all for your help!
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:25 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilmington View Post
When I am NOT hooked up to city water, but am instead using my water pump and fresh water tank, I get water dripping from the spot where I would otherwise connect a city water hose on the outside of my trailer (1999 Safari 27'). Could this be the cause of my water pump kicking on briefly every minute or so?
Yes.

Quote:
Someone has suggested the dripping water may be due to a faulty backflow preventer located next to the Watts N35B pressure reducing valve in the storage area above the rear bumper. What does this backflow preventer look like? Is replacing it a do-it-yourself project? Should I replace the Watts pressure reducing valve (now 13 years old) at the same time? I understand the Watts N35B is no longer available -- can someone suggest an alternative? Thank you all for your help!
The easy fix in the short term is to use a plug to seal the city water connection when you're not using it. A google search on "garden hose plug" will turn up several in both brass and plastic.

I'm not sure whether the backflow preventer and the check valve are one and the same on your trailer or not, and I'm not sure what material your pipes are made of. Perhaps someone more knowledgeable on the late 1990s units will chime in. In general if you have tools and skills to work with the pipe (copper or PEX as the case may be), and you can get access, it should be an easy repair.
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