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Old 11-17-2011, 09:38 AM   #1
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1975 27' Overlander
Englehart , Ontario
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Total redo with pex, one drain valve?

I'm planning to redo the Overlander plumbing with pex. After looking at things, could I not just have one drain valve at the rear to drain the whole system, or perhaps two, one for the hot And one for the cold? The three valves under the galley sink can be done away with. I also plan on making a water heater bypass, so the whole system can be pumped full of antifreeze.

Carry on,
JJ
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:50 AM   #2
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sounds okay to me as long as you add antifreeze. The extra valves are there because they are supposed to be "low point" valves for draining each line. If you just do to one valve you can get some water trapped in the low points. I never use or open the drain valves on mine anyway. I just hook up and airhose and purge lines and add antifreeze. water heater bypass is good. or you can buy 6 more gallons of antifreeze and fill the heater.
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:41 AM   #3
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1969 27' Overlander
Albuquerque , New Mexico
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Pex, and drain valves.

I just redid my '69 Overlander with new Pex and drains, etc.
I installed a drain valve at the front, just for the water tank.
I installed a hot and cold drain at the rear, for the entire system.
Works OK, but getting the rear valves to fully purge the lines, and routing the drains to below the pan, was a challenge. There's always low spots in the lines.
I intend to improve the configuration.
You might consider a couple items:
Two additional bypass valves and a cross-over connection at the Marine pump, which will aloow for the Marine pump to be "reversed". That way, you can suck the water completely out of the system, one faucet at a time. The water will be pumped back into the water tank. Then, drain the tank from the front drain valve. It's easier than trying to "blow" the water out with a compressor. Plus, no additional equipment is needed. It's all on-board.
For freeze protection, I'm adding 1/8" petcocks to the kitchen galley sink lines. These can be turned on very slightly, allowing a small, constant drip into a third low-pressure line routed back to the water tank. Water in motion won't freeze. The Marine pump will kick on a couple times an hour when the pressure drops.
I have everything wrapped in heat tape and foil-lined insulation, but the trailer will be used year-round. I never use antifreeze in my drinking water, no matter what anyone else says. (If people want to drink residual antifreeze, fine. Not me.)
By the way, Pex is really hard to bend around corners, and I don't like the connectors. I'm not sure they will hold up under constant vibration, either.
Copper freezes too easily. I was wondering about the clear plastic hose used for beer and soft-drink systems in restaurants and bars. It's food-grade, and has to be long lasting. It's under pressure.
Has anyone tried the stuff?
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:53 PM   #4
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South of the river , Minnesota
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Northlander, the drain valves are not necessary if you anticipate having compressed air available whenever you winterize. Circumstances can change, however, and you may find at some point that it is helpful to have low point drains, for example when encountering unexpected cold weather on a trip.

edglenn, the clear vinyl hose you refer to is not long lasting and will fail after a period of several years, even the stuff with the reinforcing web. In food service applications it is periodically replaced.
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Old 11-17-2011, 03:47 PM   #5
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1967 22' Safari
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I Installed a antifreeze 3 way valve before the water pump and after the water tank. This alows the pump to draw antifreeze via a tube from the antifreeze bottle. Not alowing antifreeze back into the water tank. Then come summer turn the valve to the threw positioin and your ready for tank water.
These valves can be bought at any RV supply house.
I allso installed a swing check valve in the fresh water line. (hose) Just before entering the tank/pump sys. Preventing tank water from entering the fresh water conection when not in use. That line is a bit tricky to antifreeze going threw the regulator ect. I simply poor antifreeze in the fresh water hose and hold it above the sys and give it a short shot of fresh water presure. That purges the regulator and the fresh water line from frost. Never did trust air. Can flow back to a low spot.
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Old 11-17-2011, 04:13 PM   #6
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Keep it simple

I've got Pex lines with Sea Tech ( like Shark Bite ) fittings, everything is 1/2 inch, no problem after 8 years and thousands of miles. To winterize I drain the tanks , disconnect the intake side of the pump, attach some plastic tubing to the pump and "embalm" it with RV antifreeze until I get full strength antifreeze out of each faucet. Some more antifreeze in the traps and toilet and that's it.
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Old 11-17-2011, 07:01 PM   #7
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63air, I like the way you think. Simple is good. I used to own a 28 foot boat and that is basically how I had it set up to winterize.
Thanks for all the info. I will use crimps where I can, and shark bites, or whatever in the hard to get a places. Not sure if I am going to keep the factory pressure regulator/one way valve.that thing looks kinda heavy, and can be replaced with a hose end pressure regulator, and a one way valve right at the city water fitting.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:32 AM   #8
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1969 27' Overlander
Albuquerque , New Mexico
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Jammer, thanks for the info.
I didn't know the clear vinyl will not last.
I guess PEX it is, for a while. I just don't like the crimp connectors for some reason. The shark-bites are way too expensive to do all the connections.
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Old 11-18-2011, 12:10 PM   #9
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1967 22' Safari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edglenn View Post
Jammer, thanks for the info.
I didn't know the clear vinyl will not last.
I guess PEX it is, for a while. I just don't like the crimp connectors for some reason. The shark-bites are way too expensive to do all the connections.
You won't regret spending the money They will take twisting and turning and won't leak.
I like my valve sys. that way there is no water mess to sponge up when disconecting the fitting on the pump ect.
I'd post some pics but we are winterized
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Old 11-18-2011, 12:16 PM   #10
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1967 22' Safari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northlander View Post
63air, I like the way you think. Simple is good. I used to own a 28 foot boat and that is basically how I had it set up to winterize.
Thanks for all the info. I will use crimps where I can, and shark bites, or whatever in the hard to get a places. Not sure if I am going to keep the factory pressure regulator/one way valve.that thing looks kinda heavy, and can be replaced with a hose end pressure regulator, and a one way valve right at the city water fitting.
Good idea to have the reg. at the city side. That would take the hassel out on winterizing that fresh/ to tank line.
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:09 PM   #11
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1975 27' Overlander
Englehart , Ontario
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Copper almost all gone

I've got all the copper out, and started with the pex.
The only old stuff I can't get out is under the curbside twin bed. I cut the two pipes (hot and cold) under the galley sink, then cut the same two pipes where they emerge from under the bed and head past the fuse panel to the tub. But I can tug as hard as I can and they won't come out. There has to be a rubber clamp thing holding them to the ductwork under the bed. How can I get them out? How do I remove the curbside twin bed frame to get at them? I looked and could see nothing obvious holding it to the floor? Walls? Another question: Where the city water comes into the rear, it enters into a big copper/brass thing. I assume this is the pressure regulator and one way valve? I'm installing a new RV garden hose inlet fitting that has a built in check valve, and will use a hose end pressure regulator right at the source.
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