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Old 12-21-2013, 08:05 AM   #1
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1969 31' Sovereign
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Tank Vents

We're not going to use an on-board grey tank.

Our plan is to route the drains out to a hose and have a portable grey tank outside somewhere.

Will I need tank vents anymore if I do this? Hoping maybe I can patch the roof up since the hose will be open to the air outside at this point.

Also, I'll have a hepvo valve on all drains if that matters.

Thanks!
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Old 12-21-2013, 02:48 PM   #2
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What about the BW tank? It still needs a vent.
Your coach was not originally fitted with a Grey water tank. Was this a PO install?
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Old 12-21-2013, 04:08 PM   #3
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On my 69 Ambassador my black tank has a vent line going out. Assuming that you are going to be using your black tank, it will need to be vented some how. Is it a rear bath?
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Old 12-27-2013, 09:32 PM   #4
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Why complicate life?

Look at it this way: if you do nothing, you can use a 'Blue Boy' external (and some are towable) tank, and go on to worrying about something else.

You should re-furbish the roof vents (1 is for the black tank, and you have another one for the fresh water tank). They do need about fifteen minutes of work each, up on the roof, to replace the screen over them and remove the old Vulkem and put fresh.

I do not trust those 'waterless vents' (hepvo valve) you mention. Hopefully, someone with more plumbing expertise can either help me to like them, or explain what the potential problems are with them.
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:11 AM   #5
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I have been installing this tank vent: https://360productsnorthamerica.com/site/ for a couple of years now. They are aerodynamic and pull vapors from the tank vent in as little as a 3MPH breeze, and have solved many complaints about tank smells.

You can also find them on Newell Coach and the newer Airstream Interstates.
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:26 PM   #6
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Sorry, I didn't mention this but,
No gray tank.
No black tank either.

Grey will go to a portable outside GT.
I'm using a composting toilet. (I do not need venting tips on this, thanks)

I actually patched the original vents the other day since I'm moving all plumbing to the opposite side of the camper. So if I decide i need vents for something, I'll cut new ones.

Yea, refurbing vents is easy. I'm not worried about labor, just don't want vents somewhere where they don't need to be.
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:58 PM   #7
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They do make air vents that attach to the plumbing that will vent to the inside of the trailer/ cabinet. You will need some place for the displaced air to escape to. The make a AAV vents that might work.


http://www.studor.net/air-admittance-valves-aavs
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:55 PM   #8
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I have rear bath with no grey tank. I have a grey vent where the shower pan and bathroom sink "T" and share. Do I need to run my (planned addition of)grey tank vent here? As opposed to an easier run to the black vent. To sum up, can the grey tank share a vent with the black? Or would this cause cats to go with dogs, and the beginning of the end of the world? Because I can go the other way if it will prevent problems, just not as easy.
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:11 PM   #9
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Tank Vents

Yes you can, but keep the line a high as possible. If you ever overflow the black tank it could work make its way to the grey tank, if its to low.

I vented my grey up through the floor up about 6" and then back through the floor and out the belly pan. It will also function as a overflow.

Pics can be provided if needed.
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoePKellyM View Post
We're not going to use an on-board grey tank.

Our plan is to route the drains out to a hose and have a portable grey tank outside somewhere.

Will I need tank vents anymore if I do this? Hoping maybe I can patch the roof up since the hose will be open to the air outside at this point.

Also, I'll have a hepvo valve on all drains if that matters.

Thanks!
A Hepvo valve is not a substitute for a vent.

Some people do not understand a vent is for letting air into the plumbing system, not necessarily for letting gasses out.

As an example: If a sewer waste system is not vented (allowing air to enter) properly, water running out of the lower trap at the shower might suck the water out of the higher trap at the kitchen sink (create a siphon). This would allow sewer gas to come up into the trailer through the fixture where liquid was lost from the trap.

If you do not have a tank, then a tank vent is not required. A tank vent is there to allow air into the tank to replace liquid as it drains out.

However, the plumbing system must have air admitted into the waste water system at a point beyond the last/highest fixture. It can be a vent through the roof or an air admittance valve.
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Old 01-25-2014, 12:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
A Hepvo valve is not a substitute for a vent.

Some people do not understand a vent is for letting air into the plumbing system, not necessarily for letting gasses out.

As an example: If a sewer waste system is not vented (allowing air to enter) properly, water running out of the lower trap at the shower might suck the water out of the higher trap at the kitchen sink (create a siphon). This would allow sewer gas to come up into the trailer through the fixture where liquid was lost from the trap.

If you do not have a tank, then a tank vent is not required. A tank vent is there to allow air into the tank to replace liquid as it drains out.

However, the plumbing system must have air admitted into the waste water system at a point beyond the last/highest fixture. It can be a vent through the roof or an air admittance valve.
Alan, when you say "a point beyond the last/highest fixture" does that mean vertically above that last fixture? For example, if I use a Hepvo valve at the galley sink, and that Hepvo valve is the vertically highest fixture in that plumbing run to a gray tank in the belly, must an air admittance valve be vertically higher than the level of the Hepvo valve?
Forgive my ignorance if this question is way off the mark.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:43 AM   #12
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Yes, the vent should be higher than the trap at the kitchen sink. If you decide to use an air admittance valve instead of a vent at the kitchen sink, I suggest it should be placed as high as possible inside the cabinet space beneath the countertop. It should be high as possible vertically allowing only enough space to do maintenance on the valve. There is a rubber disc and a spring inside the valve that occasionally will require replacement.

Additionally, a branch off of the main sewer pipe can be no longer than 3' on an 1 1/2" pipe or 5' on a 2" pipe without being additionally vented. In other words, where there is a T or Y in the main sewer pipe, if the length pipe branching off and going to a trap is longer than these maximums then a vent must be added at the end of both lines.
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